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  • I hope so Frank. I want to get the fuse in a very high state of completion before I start on the wings. Now that I have all the material for the wings I don't have to worry about aluminum prices going up on me. Ill be checking out your thread for tips as I go. Thanks for posting.

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    • hey guys got a little more progress, I decided I needed a larger instrument panel so i made another one today. I have the original one and it is per the plans If anyone wants it its yours just send me a PM. I am giving it away for the cost of shipping. It has a 1\2 inch flange on it.
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      This gallery has 4 photos.
      Last edited by davzLSA; 11-24-2021, 06:58 PM.

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      • Hey Guys, I have been taking a little break lately from building, sometimes you just need to get away from it for a minute. Recently I have gotten back to it. So in the pics you see I have all the aluminum parts now attached and painted all nice and pretty. And as it would be I forgot to weld the handle on the rear for towing the airplane around. So I had to wire brush all the pant in the area I needed to weld. Then after I got the handle welded on I had to clean it up with the wire brush again and repaint everything again. But this is the final time these parts will be going on, they will not come off again. Maybe. Also I have something coming up that i have been thinking about for awhile now. I have been trying to figure out how to attach hard points for jacking. I believe I have hit upon the solution to the problem. It will cost a little weight but the utility of it I believe will make it worth it. I will also have pic as soon as I get it bolted on. It is a pair of brackets that are bolted on with the bottom engine mount, the brackets extend about 1 inch below the fire wall. This is a heavy duty bracket made from a cut down pieces of angle iron. I intend upon making a jacking bracket that will bolt onto the brackets that extends below the fire wall. Not only can the plane be jacked from the bottom, but with a longer bracket and a spreader bar it can be lifted from above as well. It will make more sense when you see the pics. Another thing I did that is not on the plans is the second bottom bulkhead behind the fire wall. I believe it will make a smoother transition to the fabric bottom. I think I have seen this in other builders pictures. It looked like a good idea to me so I just stole it. But that is why we post pics right?I hope you all like these pics.
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        This gallery has 20 photos.
        Last edited by davzLSA; 11-27-2021, 08:51 PM.

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        • Frank
          Frank commented
          Editing a comment
          Thanks for all th fine photos, Dave! I will be stealing from you, so what goes around comes around. Regarding things not in the plans, I was told by anotherLSA builder that there are some required items not drawn. The item he pointed out to me was the lack of 'control stops' as in stops to prevent moving the stick too far in any direction and damaging the controls. That ring a bell with you?

      • Hey Frank, I know the rudder stops are actually welded to the tail post. I believe it actually points that out in the plans also. The elevator stops are also welded into the fuse. The aileron stops Im not too sure about but I think that stop needs to be determined when the ailerons are installed. So I think it would be difficult to get that stop just right before then. And of course its usually too late to do any welding at that point so I would think that stop would have to be incorporated into the aileron installation after everything is adjusted and rigged. Just be careful that you get the full deflection you need on all your control surfaces before you put in permanent stops on the control surfaces. You and anyone else is more than welcomed to anything I put up here. But be aware use at your own risk. Im just another "dog face builder". (old military reference)

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        • Frank
          Frank commented
          Editing a comment
          Dave I salute you! The fuselage is still a dark mystery to me! I share your faith with the plans, and maybe somethings might be determined only upon installation!

        • Frank
          Frank commented
          Editing a comment
          By the way, can you remind me what welding method you are using to attach tabs etc. to the fuselage? I can see you have a striker and I saw tanks in another posting. Are you gas welding only or do you use other methods? Sorry if this was covered earlier in your postings!

      • There needs to be stops at both the "actuating" and control surface end.

        IIRC, when rigged correctly, the design of the rudder pedals basically allows them to "stop" against the firewall.

        Similarly, the design of the torque tube limits fore and aft stick movement.

        I did have to come up with my own aileron travel stop at the "actuating" end. I believe I posted what I did in a thread in the LSA scratch build section and(again, IIRC, it has been a few years) was basically a similar approach to what Mark used.

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        • Bcone1381
          Bcone1381 commented
          Editing a comment
          I really like this standard of a stop on the actuating end as well. If the stop on the rudder is reached only, the force on the rudder cable gets quite high meaning wear and tear on the rudder cable.

      • Hey Frank, Im using the O/A method only. Thanks for the info Brad, Ill try to find the info about the aileron stops, but I'm a ways from that yet.
        Last edited by davzLSA; 12-11-2021, 02:43 PM.

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        • That's a good point Brooks. I had not thought of that. I would need to figure out some sort of stop without welding anything. I really hate having to repaint something.

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          • Hey Fellas, got more progress to report. I got the top of the boot cowl fitted and also I fabricated the jacking brackets I was talking about and got them fitted to the front of the fire wall. I also got some bling for my cowl today as well. I hope ya'll like the pics. I have not started drilling the the cowl to the fire wall or instrument panel yet as you can see.
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            This gallery has 8 photos.
            Last edited by davzLSA; 11-29-2021, 08:42 PM.

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            • David Swartzendruber
              David Swartzendruber commented
              Editing a comment
              Dave,
              As part of making a new instrument panel size and fitting the boot cowl, have you been installing the nose bowl and visualizing what the angle of the upper cowling will be and how that will match up with the boot cowl? You haven't mentioned it but I've been wondering if you were trying to make that all flow smoothly and how that was working out. I will be using the same nose bowl that you are using so how it all fits for you is of particular interest to me.
              David
              P.S. The bling for your cowl will be unique.

            • Frank
              Frank commented
              Editing a comment
              That's a clever jacking point solution, it avoids welding. Lots of clearance around landing gear. Bolted to the engine mount makes it permanent. Could you mount it in a way that it could be removed for flight? Used only as necessary? And I like how the shape of the instrument panel defines the boot cowl. And lots of overhang you can work with.

            • Frank
              Frank commented
              Editing a comment
              I like the Corvair graphics. How about something that says Chevrolet?

          • Hi David and Frank, David this is boot cowl 2.0 for me, I have already made one but like many things in this project that was just a practice run. I only increased the height of the instrument panel 1 inch and I am using the corvair nose bowl I got from Flycorvair so I really don't think it will make that much difference. I will have to put the engine back on the nose to attach the nose bowl. From there I will get the engine cowl part fitted. I will have pics when I get that done and you can see it for your self. Frank the jacking point was the only way I could figure that would be a hard point that could handle the jacking stresses. Even if you had something removable it would still have to have some point that it could bolt up to that would handle the stresses of jacking. That is why I have bolted them on permanently as it is. I made an attempt to lighten it so it would not be that costly in weight. The brackets that extend below the firewall will have another bracket bolted on that will have trailer balls that the jack can engage. The jack itself will be sitting up on a stand of some kind. Afterward the bracket is removed. I have plans for the overhang over the instrument panel. I think I will put a strip of red led lights under the overhang and of course pad it. It should also block direct sun light from the panel. You know what a PIA that can be trying to see the instruments in direct sunlight. I know I am using a corvair engine and I have my reasons but that does not mean I am a chevy guy, I go for Fords mostly I own a 2010 Mustang GT and a Ford Ranger. And putting a Chevrolet badge on something I operate just wouldn't sit well with me. Hey you know everyone has at least one weird hangup?
            Last edited by davzLSA; 11-29-2021, 11:21 PM.

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            • Frank
              Frank commented
              Editing a comment
              Unfortunately my emoticon didn't post. Hope you know I was teasing. Corvairs, Corvettes and Bearhawks don't strike me as Chevys either.

          • No worries Frank everything is cool.

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            • Hey guys here is the tale of 3 bulkheads. After my 3rd attempt I have finally produced a suitable bulkhead. This is the one that is not in the plans. On my first attempt I just copied the bulkhead under the firewall tunnel. Well that one was too narrow and didn't protrude far enough below the stringer standoffs for the skin to flow smoothy from the sides to the bottom, the second one was just not symmetrical so the third one was the charm. The point to all this rambling is what I learned in the process. On the first one I just assumed that a copy of the bulkhead under the tunnel would fit, not so much. On the second one I just got in a hurry and did not take enough measurements and get everything symmetrical on paper first. On the third and final one I took my time, had a nice symmetrical drawing on paper first. When I cut the form block I drilled holes along the curved line so I could put the flutes in at a measured interval, I was able to beat them in with a 1/4 steel rod.. I think it turned out a much better product and it fit much better than the other two did. So if you are going to make a part take your time and to it right the first time, if I had taken my own advise it would have saved me lots of time.
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              • Frank
                Frank commented
                Editing a comment
                That's intriguing Dave: a bulkhead not in the plans... This is way beyond my current scope of activity but I'm certainly going to refer back to this in the future. And at that time I will follow your advice for sure! Also I like making templates and mock ups using stiff paper and cardboard. Keep up the good work Dave!

            • Happy to hear from you Frank, Im looking forward to you starting your fuselage. I hope my posts will be of some use to you. Ill be checking out your wing posts when I start my wings. I plan to get the fuse to an advanced state of completion before I start my wings.

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