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  • #16
    Hey Brooks thanks for the great pictures. It makes it easier to understand how the frames are supposed to come together. Im going to take a page out of Stingers play book and and make my window frame out of solid sheet to make my window frames. By that I dont intend to use separate aluminum pieces on each side of the window. There were a lot of fine craftsmanship that went into building the windows in the pictures. And again thanks for the great pictures.

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    • #17
      Great pictures and suggestion Brooks et al.....I'll probably do a joggle along the aft edge. Not sure if it will be on the window frame or fuselage edge....Looks like either way can be made to come out just fine..Thanks all........

      Ron
      P131

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      • #18
        This thread was very useful to me. Just got my rear window frames done. I wrote a short blog entry about my install here.
        Bearhawk "XHawk" Patrol, O-360/PMAGS, Trailblazer 80", tubeless 26" Goodyears, Stewart Systems. See XHawk Build Log.

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        • #19
          Originally posted by noema View Post
          This thread was very useful to me. Just got my rear window frames done. I wrote a short blog entry about my install here.
          That was a GREAT blog, I saved it for when I am ready for windows
          Revo Sunglasses Ambassador
          https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCQ0...tBJLdV8HB_jSIA

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          • #20
            Man I wish I would have seen this earlier. I have windows (front and back) mounted on one side temporarily and am working on the other. My execution turned out a bit different.

            I assumed the front corners of the exposed acrylic panes in the back windows were supposed to line up with the adjacent corners of front window panes. This required that the base of the rear window had to be lifted an inch above the aluminum stringer in the front, while resting directly on the stringer the back. I hope I got it right. It looks correct to me, but then I see others have not done this and their Patrols look OK too. This early picture shows the forward corners of the rear window raised to match the front window.


            7ABCBFE4-7E35-41D0-98D6-CAD2F1D8B299.jpeg

            Since my frames were raised above the stringers, I couldn’t rivet to them. I made 3” long aluminum L brackets and riveted them 4” apart along the stringer, then riveted the back window frames to the brackets. I found it quite tricky to get the exterior surfaces all lined up. Stefan’s tutorial will help anyone else a lot. I shortened my rear window by about 4” for aesthetic reasons and because one of my rear frames was bent in a few places, especially at the front. (the only piece which was not in perfect condition on arrival). I’m still struggling with getting it to lie flat. I may have to dismantle the two haves, straighten, and re-rivet them.

            This photo shows the rear corner of the aft window resting directly on the stringer. I tried to keep the finished surface of the baggage compartment former level with the shop heads of the rivets. I’m not sure if the fabric should be attached to only the lower edge of the baggage former, or whether it should be glued to the former and suspend across where the rivets are. I’ll try to post a picture of it at a more advanced stage of completion so those who are deciding upon window placement can see if it’s something they wish to emulate or avoid.

            n 6CD5DB2F-7C16-48BE-9F7A-FD227B531402.jpeg
            Last edited by Pbruce; 09-16-2021, 07:15 PM.

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            • #21
              I'm a little nervous this morning. I'm installing fabric on the fuselage. I'll be placing the fabric down into the groove of the window channel. I followed Mark G's advice some time ago and made the channel wider and it accommodates my Acrylic window nicely. Fabric will take up some of that channel space and the fabric glue will result in more friction when the window is installed after fabric.

              I've considered installing the window while the glue is still wet, but then I fear removal of it later. I hope this works....I'll keep you updated. A good friend of mine used an alternative method that removes this discomfort. He disassembled his frame's inner and outer parts, then installed the fabric over the inner frame before the window and outer frame were installed. So the outer frame and Plexiglas is installed on top of the fabric.

              BTW, Stewart's Systems specifically allows the fabric to be attached to the top former like I did. Other Fabric systems do not. The Right Fuselage fabric will overlap on top of the left side at top former. A 1 inch overlap with a 2 inch fishing tape defines the Stewart's System's certified glue joint in this application.
              IMG_3621.png65543322610__54F9710E-7BAA-4073-A685-ACF239EE116F.png

              Brooks Cone
              Southeast Michigan
              Patrol #303, Kit build

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              • #22
                Brooks, I did mine the same way. The acrylic window slid in fine after the glue was dry. I think I placed a block of wood against it and tapped it into place gently with a mallet for the last 1/4 inch.
                Nev Bailey
                Christchurch, NZ
                Builders-log
                YouTube

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                • #23
                  I liked the kit frame because it was very light, but I installed it inside out initially. With my chosen fabric system(Oratex) I questioned my ability to install the window after I covered it so I made a simple window frame fabricated from angle, with another thin, broke, angle capturing the plexi.

                  I still like the look and weight of the kit parts, but I wasn't sure it would work for me.

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                  • #24
                    I gave myself some space and it worked well.
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