BearHawk 5 school of construction

[Sir Newton]

100% we are of the same tribe. I added pictures of the tooling used. It is a bead roller with a 5/16 radius die set. I tipped every edge so the fabric wouldn't have an edge to rub against. The edges have a more finished look. I did the same on all the exposed edges on my wing skins as well :-)

[Frank]

As an LSA builder we nevertheless inhabit the same gene pool. So I have to ask about gusset and trailing edge flanges. One reason would be to disguise gusset edges. But maybe it's more esthetic to feature the edges? Though now I zoom in it looks like the edges are somewhat rolled? Cleveland edge forming tool? Sorry to be a pain but I am just approaching that step now!

[Frank]

That's pretty cool, kimosabe!

[Camflyer]

Awesome! Keep it up!

[Sir Newton]

Hola fellow BearHawkers, Happy to report & post pictures in what is turning out to be a serious education in aircraft riveting. YES I said riveting. Myself & my partner in life (wife) are growing closer in understanding one & other because of this task in the rabbit hole of building a plane :-) Combined time of 29hrs to date, we have progressed fairly well imho. We have riveted RH under side of all the nose ribs & have started down the topside of the nose ribs forward of the main spar. Riveting this area is BUCKETS of fun! oh you just wait & see. I have included a few pictures for the lookie loos that enjoy the visual experience. Well.. if you have made it this far in my echo chamber of a post. I have some heart felt advice for ya. While building your scratch built nose ribs keep in mind that you have to get around the lighten hole flanging with a bucking bar! Over flanging will require you to be able to build custom bucking bars. Nothing to be afraid of, just prepared for is all. I have noticed the depth of flanging on the factory kit ribs with greater understanding now. Other then that Pound Your Rivets with Pride... on that note. adios

[triumphantduke]

ah okay, thank you. I was scratching my head thinking I might need to re-review fonts for GD&T.

[Sir Newton]

3"7/16 is a type O & is wrong. At the very least it is poor penmanship. 3"1/16 is the correct distance for the arc required to stroke the aileron.

[triumphantduke]

Oh almost forgot, this is actually beneficial information if you read my ramblings about BH. In the attached photo DWG 11B. There is a measurement circled in RED! At 1st glance a fabulous BH fabricating warrior may see 3"7/16 When in the real BH fabricating world this measurement is 3"1/16. Pay Attention! It freaking matters! Thank me later :-)

Yes, I'm enjoying to what I can glean before building. The answer might be obvious for some... but would you please elaborate on the "7" vs a "1" ? Just vertically down there's another one.

[Camflyer]

Im enjoying watching your progress. You do some nice work! I cant wait to get in my shop amd make some parts!

[way_up_north]

Good Day follow BH builders, I read everything I could find on internal corrosion protection of 4030 tubing. It is encouraged in AC43 to use boiled Linseed Oil. After a review of the ALL the products I could find including long term engine preservation oils. IMHO, In the case of 4130 tubing. Linseed is still the best choice at $10 a liter. I plan to inject any part that I can with it. Bell cranks got a few drops & then I sealed the hole with weld. It does not take much oil. The oil naturally spreads and crawls its way around everything. I simply tested it by dipping some linseed oil on the fab table. Within a day it spread like a fugus over the table. I see why the old generation chose to use it. Anyways.. I can ramble on about details. After fabricating these tiny little bell cranks, I realized that these little parts are fairly challenging to fab & weld. Needing something to take pictures of & post, I included pictures of a simple jig I designed to get the job done quickly & accurately. Be sure to use backers in all the bushings during welding. The backers are not just heat sinks! There purpose is to simply take up the space so air has a more difficult time getting into contact with the interior surface of the bushings during welding. Alrighty time to get back to work. PM's are open for anyone who requires a more detailed explanation of my ramblings. Cheers ta all

Your post reminds me of what my grandfather taught me… while watching him wind up an old clock… I asked him what was the cotton balls in a small tray on the bottom of the clock for

he explained that you put oil on the cotton balls… close the door to the clock… the oil slowly atomizes over time and coats all the gears in the clock..

I appreciate the time and effort you put in to post online.. I’ll be following your fuselage construction with great interest

[Sir Newton]

Oh almost forgot, this is actually beneficial information if you read my ramblings about BH. In the attached photo DWG 11B. There is a measurement circled in RED! At 1st glance a fabulous BH fabricating warrior may see 3"7/16 When in the real BH fabricating world this measurement is 3"1/16. Pay Attention! It freaking matters! Thank me later :-)

[Sir Newton]

The odd picture out is the weight of my completed Aileron on the scale 11 lbs 4.3 Oz No fabric.

[Sir Newton]

Good Day follow BH builders, I read everything I could find on internal corrosion protection of 4030 tubing. It is encouraged in AC43 to use boiled Linseed Oil. After a review of the ALL the products I could find including long term engine preservation oils. IMHO, In the case of 4130 tubing. Linseed is still the best choice at $10 a liter. I plan to inject any part that I can with it. Bell cranks got a few drops & then I sealed the hole with weld. It does not take much oil. The oil naturally spreads and crawls its way around everything. I simply tested it by dipping some linseed oil on the fab table. Within a day it spread like a fugus over the table. I see why the old generation chose to use it. Anyways.. I can ramble on about details. After fabricating these tiny little bell cranks, I realized that these little parts are fairly challenging to fab & weld. Needing something to take pictures of & post, I included pictures of a simple jig I designed to get the job done quickly & accurately. Be sure to use backers in all the bushings during welding. The backers are not just heat sinks! There purpose is to simply take up the space so air has a more difficult time getting into contact with the interior surface of the bushings during welding. Alrighty time to get back to work. PM's are open for anyone who requires a more detailed explanation of my ramblings. Cheers ta all

[Sir Newton]

Greetings, I am overwhelmly happy to announce! Ailerons complete! Trophies for the Parts wall! Whorah!

[Sir Newton]

Greetings fellow Bearhawkers
This is an important endorsement of Bob & R&B Aircraft from a very satisfied builder. (me)
Today I received lift struts & flap springs. Along with some very important ID tags! Simply very pleased & I felt like telling someone. The shipment was professionally packed up like a professional design the packaging.
Cheerios to all