Rivet removal tool

[LukeS]

After speaking with Bob yesterday, it's become apparent that I have a bunch of rivets to drill out in order to undo a design change from the original builder of my project. When I consider the skin rivets and all of the nut-plates that need to be drilled out, I probably have around a hundred rivets to drill out. I'm wondering if a tool like this

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/rivetremoval.php?clickkey=53841

would be worth buying. Has anyone had any experience with these tools? What was your impression?

[BTAZ]

It worked OK for Universal head rivets but doesn't work for flush rivets. Even with Universal head rivets, after I had done a few with this tool on my spar build I found I could do it just as well and more quickly without it if proper care is taken.

[LukeS]

Thanks for the input. That's just what I wanted to know. There are quite a few tools out there that are really only good for lightening your wallet.

[aerolite]

I have literally drilled out a few thousand rivets over the years and nothing works as well as just drilling them out. I'm sure you know the process but if not then watch this: http://www.eaavideo.org/video.aspx?v=1657896937 Saves me trying to explain
It won't take that much time to drill out a hundred, but nutplates are the worst to do. You will end up drilling right through most of the time. The most important thing in the process is to drill in the centre.

[LukeS]

That's enough to convince me to save the money and put it towards a tubing kit from Mark G.

[Bearhawkdoc]

It actually works well for universal head rivets as it is difficult to stay centered on the dome of the head without it. With flush rivets, it works best to use a center punch first, to help center the bit (some already have a dimple in the center) then drill it, pop the head, then drive the remaining rivet through with a pin punch.

[Craig C.]

The trick that I taught to the new hires in the production areas that I worked, was to first center drill a bad rivet with a #50 or smaller bit, then move up bit sizes as necessary until they were proficient in drilling out rivets.It's a heck of a lot easier to pull a .070" hole if they get off center a little. A little practice and most were fine with starting with something closer to shank diameter. Also, I would generally drill out the shank thru the first piece of skin thickness and almost thru the second piece, with a bit diameter just under the nominal shank size...ie a #41, #31, ect. It leaves a little rivet shank wall, but if you back up the area around the shop head with a close fitting socket, it will punch out fairly easy and leave a good hole in the structure. Select a punch diameter that will fit loosely in the hole and as you drive it thru the structure, the shank will collapse around the punch.For those with a heavy drill hand, drill stops were suggested until they learned freehand depth control.
Remember to go back and deburr all holes after disassembly.

[geraldmorrissey]

First things first, drive some rivets and practice trying to keep the bit centered as you drill them out. Have a helper look at your drilling technique and see if your leaning one way or the other. You might be surprised at how much your off and the direction your off. Practice drilling normal to contour through the rivet head. Get some triangles and see how normal to contour "feels". If the drill bit skips off the head it can really screw up the skin. Protect the skin around the rivet head with multiple layers of tape (not masking tape) or better yet find some thin stainless, cut a hole in it the size of the rivet head and tape in place. After 40 or 50 holes you should start to get the hang of it. Do not take any of this lightly, one screw up and you can really do some damage. Putting the bit in the dimple and rotating it by hand a couple of turns will also help to establish center.
Cheers
Gerry
Patrol #30 Wings

[LukeS]

Fellas, I'm not having any difficulty drilling these out. I have eight years behind me in professional metalworking, and countless more as a hobbyist. I was just asking about the tool to see if it was a time saver. That's it.

[bestbearhawk1231]

Spend the money on a good auto center punch and drill them by hand with a #41 bit, grind a 3/32" punch down a hare and use that to knock out the ones that the auto center punch will not knock out. That style is for dome heads. PS, the rivets we use have a "convenient" locator divot that you can sometimes see after they are driven...and no, if the FAA inspector asks what the purpose of the divot it, the answer is not "to make it easier to drill them out".

[Craig C.]

In my 37+ years of aircraft production, maintenance and restoration, never seen one used, or known anyone that had one or used one....

[wickedpurple]

Thank you all for the extra tips! I will be starting sheet metal soon in school and they may help out greatly. Our teachers are ok, but sometimes they leave out little things that let us 'get' it quicker.