Anyone ever talk with Bob about the rivet edge distance on the main spar attach plates? From the plans (patrol) there is .250 of edge distance, But 2D for a -5 rivet is .3125. I'm wondering if because this is a multi layer that min edge distance doesn't apply or? I've been thinking of remaking the plates by just adding a .100 to each side.
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Patrol Main spar plate rivet edge distance?
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For others that read this down the road. I spoke with Bob about at and he said the stress runs along the cap strips, along with being such a thick plate there shouldn't be any worries about building it as drawn even though there is less than 2D edge distance. He said the main goal was to keep weight down.Dan - Scratch building Patrol # 243.
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I added enough meat on the spar attach plates to bring the edge distance up to 2.5D. My guess is the weight difference is not much but I have the old ones to compare. I'll post the difference. I just did not like the 1.5D margin per the drawing. The only thing I changed were the four root end doubler attach plates, Everything else is per the drawing.
Cheers
Gerry
Patrol #30 Wings
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Originally posted by geraldmorrissey View PostI added enough meat on the spar attach plates to bring the edge distance up to 2.5D. My guess is the weight difference is not much but I have the old ones to compare. I'll post the difference. I just did not like the 1.5D margin per the drawing. The only thing I changed were the four root end doubler attach plates, Everything else is per the drawing.
Cheers
Gerry
Patrol #30 WingsJohn Snapp (Started build in Denver, CO) Now KAWO -Arlington Washington Bearhawk Patrol - Plans #255 Scratch built wing and Quickbuild Fuselage as of 11/2021. Working on skinning the left wing! -Ribs : DONE -Spars: DONE, Left wing assembly's: DONE., Top skins : DONE YouTube Videos on my building of patrol :https://m.youtube.com/user/n3uw
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I can't believe it, those look exactly like my parts!! Speaking of main spars, is everybody able to maintain a full contact joints at all spacer bar/cap strip locations. I'm working my behind off trying to maintain zero gaps while my shop temperature swings can create and remove said gaps. I use a .002 feeler to check gaps. It's the thinnest I can find that is still practical to use. Plus close visual inspection to confirm the joint is closed. Don't know if these old eyes can work any closer. With the right environment, I hope to have contact only conditions at assembly using many clamps.
Cheers
Gerry
Patrol #30 Wings
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