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I thought I was done with the right wing today. Before I put it back on a cradle, I inspected all the exterier rivets one more time. The driven rivets I already inspected after I drove them. I just double checked the squeezed ones.
I bought an 8 foot piece of steel angle to keep the trailing edges/aileron pockets straight. Very easy. I check the rivets with a gauge, but not visually before. They were all bent over in the aft direction. Yikes! How did that happen. Some I did with a manual squeezer, some pneumatic. All the same. The hot rolled steel angle I bought was very straight as I inspected it before I bought it. What I didn't catch, was that the legs of the angle were very slightly tapered. Slightly thicker at the center, slightly thinner at the edges. Ruh Roh. I did gets lots of good practice drilling out rivets. Lesson learned, make sure the steel angle has constant thickness legs. It wasn't tapered very much. I missed it.;
The "good" is I am using a tungsten bucking bar. I put "rubber bumpers" on the edges to keep the bucking bar on the rivet. I am using 3M VB tape as it is about the thickness of a driven -3 shop head and has very strong adhesive on the face of the bucking bar. It is good for most of the rivets inside the wing, even better for the few that are not against a rib. For those I made a surround of VB tabe. It helps keep the rivet on the bucking bar, and as you drive it, it keeps the bucking bar at 90 degrees in both axis. I will try to post a pic or two, but am in the middle of migrating everything to a new laptop.
I bought an 8 foot piece of steel angle to keep the trailing edges/aileron pockets straight. Very easy. I check the rivets with a gauge, but not visually before. They were all bent over in the aft direction. Yikes! How did that happen. Some I did with a manual squeezer, some pneumatic. All the same. The hot rolled steel angle I bought was very straight as I inspected it before I bought it. What I didn't catch, was that the legs of the angle were very slightly tapered. Slightly thicker at the center, slightly thinner at the edges. Ruh Roh. I did gets lots of good practice drilling out rivets. Lesson learned, make sure the steel angle has constant thickness legs. It wasn't tapered very much. I missed it.;
The "good" is I am using a tungsten bucking bar. I put "rubber bumpers" on the edges to keep the bucking bar on the rivet. I am using 3M VB tape as it is about the thickness of a driven -3 shop head and has very strong adhesive on the face of the bucking bar. It is good for most of the rivets inside the wing, even better for the few that are not against a rib. For those I made a surround of VB tabe. It helps keep the rivet on the bucking bar, and as you drive it, it keeps the bucking bar at 90 degrees in both axis. I will try to post a pic or two, but am in the middle of migrating everything to a new laptop.