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  • Metal bandsaw

    I am looking for suggestions at what you guys are using to cut sheet steel. I have a wood bandsaw that even though it is way too fast has been ok cutting aluminum. I am looking at something to cut sheet steel. What do yu guys use,
    John Snapp (Started build in Denver, CO) Now KAWO -Arlington Washington Bearhawk Patrol - Plans #255 Scratch built wing and Quickbuild Fuselage as of 11/2021. Working on skinning the left wing! -Ribs : DONE -Spars: DONE, Left wing assembly's: DONE., Top skins : DONE YouTube Videos on my building of patrol :https://m.youtube.com/user/n3uw

  • #2
    What kind of band saw do you have? If you can reduce the cutting speed by half, the saw you have might work. My band saw is a 14" wood saw with a speed reduction box and stepped belts to set speed.

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    • #3
      Hi John. I bought the Harbor Freight saw a couple of years ago when I started building. The stand and blade it came with were junk, but I like the saw. I welded up a new stand from square steel tubing and bought a good blade from Amazon.....and it's been great. i use it all the time. The stand was the first thing I ever welded, so it was good practice for me
      Metal band saws for less at Harbor Freight. Save big on this horizontal and vertical metal cutting band saw that cuts up to 4x6 metal with ease.

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      • #4
        What kind of band saw do you have? If you can reduce the cutting speed by half, the saw you have might work. My band saw is a 14" wood saw with a speed reduction box and stepped belts to set speed.

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        • #5
          I was planning on buying one of the harbor freight porta-bands and making a table for it to use as a vertical band saw. I've used one of my friends and it works great (with a name brand blade) other than the motor being loud.
          Dan - Scratch building Patrol # 243.

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          • #6
            Originally posted by mswain View Post
            Hi John. I bought the Harbor Freight saw a couple of years ago when I started building. The stand and blade it came with were junk, but I like the saw. I welded up a new stand from square steel tubing and bought a good blade from Amazon.....and it's been great. i use it all the time. The stand was the first thing I ever welded, so it was good practice for me
            So I was wondering like dan below. can a horizontal bad saw be used as a vertical band saw?
            John Snapp (Started build in Denver, CO) Now KAWO -Arlington Washington Bearhawk Patrol - Plans #255 Scratch built wing and Quickbuild Fuselage as of 11/2021. Working on skinning the left wing! -Ribs : DONE -Spars: DONE, Left wing assembly's: DONE., Top skins : DONE YouTube Videos on my building of patrol :https://m.youtube.com/user/n3uw

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            • #7
              Originally posted by N3UW View Post
              So I was wondering like dan below. can a horizontal bad saw be used as a vertical band saw?
              I use mine vertical 95% of the time. I built the new stand to be comfortable using the saw vertically while standing up. The horizontal feature is nice when cutting tube and other kinds of stock, which will make life easier when I get to the fuselage on my build.

              There is another builder I know that did what Dan suggests......built most of his plane with a porta-band clamped in a vice vertically.....with a small table.
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              Last edited by mswain; 11-07-2014, 07:46 AM.

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              • #8
                I also use a harbor freight 4x6 band saw for steel and thicker aluminum. I used one of those 25% off deals while it was on sale and I was out the door for $200. The stand is junk but I haven't built a new one yet, I have had it for a year now and hardly ever put it away. I sit on a chair while cutting with the saw in the vertical position. Lately I have been using it more horizontally than vertically, it is really nice to cut off raw material while doing other things in the shop knowing it will shut off when it cuts through. You will want to put a decent bi-metal blade on it and clean out the gearbox/replace the oil. I had a bunch of casting sand in the bottom of mine and the oil smelled like it came out of a locomotive at annual time. Plan on spending a little bit of time adjusting it so it will cut square. I managed to get mine to cut within 1/16" at full capacity so it is plenty accurate for what I do. Changing the blade and gear oil really quieted down the saw and took quite a bit of vibration out of it. I was initally concerned with how quickly the belt seemed to be wearing, but once it "wore in" and seated itself against the pulleys it quit making black dust.

                Due to the blade speed, it does take a while to cut. Many times I will use a 4.5" grinder with a cut off wheel for straight cuts in thin material...it is a lot faster.
                Joe
                Scratch-building 4-place #1231
                Almost Wyoming region of Nebraska

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                • #9
                  mswain, I see an Everlast welder in your pix. How do you like it? What model? I am looking at the 200DX real close.
                  John, sorry for the off subject.

                  Doug
                  Scratch building Patrol #254

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by DRLPatrol View Post
                    mswain, I see an Everlast welder in your pix. How do you like it? What model? I am looking at the 200DX real close.
                    John, sorry for the off subject.

                    Doug

                    The welder is an Everlast 210EXT. (Keep in mind I had ZERO welding experience when buying this). The welder itself has been fine. The pedal and torch it came with were junk, but I knew that when purchasing it. I put a CK-9 torch with a superflex hose on it and I really like the setup. I welded all of my wing steel and my fuel tanks.....no issues. I push the pedal and it goes. It's also fairly small and light, which makes it easy to move around.

                    The one time I had to call their support it was bad, so I think you are kind of on your own with it. I tried finding a good used Miller.....but after watching craigslist for a few months I gave up and bought the Everlast. I just couldn't justify spending 4K to get into a comparable Miller or Lincoln...I paid $1500 for the Everlast and another $200 for a torch and new pedal.

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                    • #11
                      Thanks. I had heard about the petal and the torch. At least with the torch I can justify that because what you are using it for can call for different torches, and personal preference.
                      I agree about the $4000, its ether this or none.

                      Doug
                      Scratch building Patrol #254

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by DRLPatrol View Post
                        mswain, I see an Everlast welder in your pix. How do you like it? What model? I am looking at the 200DX real close.
                        John, sorry for the off subject.

                        Doug
                        I'm a recent TIG convert also. I picked up a Everlast 200 DV from tigdepot. They replace the torch with a CK, and the footpedal and argon flowmeter with better units. Cost is $1680. So far I'd say and quite happy. The unit is a lot better than I am. Probably also will be. A comparable unit from Miller is over $3500 and Lincoln isn't really selling a comparable unit at the moment.
                        David Edgemon RV-9A N42DE flying RV-8 N48DE flying Patrol #232 N553DE in progress ! Plans built.

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