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Landing Gear Attach Fittings Jig (4).JPG Landing Gear Attach Fittings Jig (2).JPG
I don't know if this qualifies as an original idea. May have seen it posted by someone else and just forgot. Aging does that. It seems so simple that I know someone else has used this technique. I know there is tooling for this in the AviPro factory. This made the job a lot easier for me. I just made a simple three hole jig and cut it in half. Plans show 15/16" center to center. Strapped them to the longeron using tie-wraps and things got better fast. The bad words had been flying before that. I was struggling trying to clamp, fine tune adjust, then clamp popping off, bad words, start over - repeat.
The pictures are self explanatory. Now that I have tacked up one side there are two additional things I am going to change:
1) I tacked a nut on the rear end of the all thread. After tacking it doesn't slide any more and has to be screwed back out. Portable drill and nut driver - done.
2) I'm going to cut the 1/4" holes in half so that I can remove the jig blocks without having to back the all thread out all the way to remove for welding. Other option is to make them out of something that isn't heat sensitive - like metal.
Hope this is helpful and gets someone through this chore faster and better than me.
This is for the 4-Place Bearhawk. I'm pretty sure Bob uses the same design on the Patrol and the LSA.
I don't know if this qualifies as an original idea. May have seen it posted by someone else and just forgot. Aging does that. It seems so simple that I know someone else has used this technique. I know there is tooling for this in the AviPro factory. This made the job a lot easier for me. I just made a simple three hole jig and cut it in half. Plans show 15/16" center to center. Strapped them to the longeron using tie-wraps and things got better fast. The bad words had been flying before that. I was struggling trying to clamp, fine tune adjust, then clamp popping off, bad words, start over - repeat.
The pictures are self explanatory. Now that I have tacked up one side there are two additional things I am going to change:
1) I tacked a nut on the rear end of the all thread. After tacking it doesn't slide any more and has to be screwed back out. Portable drill and nut driver - done.
2) I'm going to cut the 1/4" holes in half so that I can remove the jig blocks without having to back the all thread out all the way to remove for welding. Other option is to make them out of something that isn't heat sensitive - like metal.
Hope this is helpful and gets someone through this chore faster and better than me.
This is for the 4-Place Bearhawk. I'm pretty sure Bob uses the same design on the Patrol and the LSA.
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