Need advice

[MNBenny]

Hi Chris. How's it going? How do these patterns look to you?

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[Chris In Milwaukee]

The important thing to remember is to have a smooth, consistent 9/16" flange on the top and bottom edges of your rib. It looks like your dad did a good job cleaning them up for you as long as the rib profile matches the master rib drawing, and you have enough flange to rivet to, you should be good to go.

[MNBenny]

Here are the ribs I tried to cut last night, and my dad cleaned up today

[MNBenny]

The nose ribs I cut earlier can't be used. So here I am again trying to make the wood patterns trying to run the router through.

[Chris In Milwaukee]

Looks great. Routers are great tools for this job.

[MNBenny]

test rib.


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[MNBenny]

First set of 4 through the router and 1 test rib.


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[Chris In Milwaukee]

Good start! How wide are the flanges? They appear to change width from front to back. As a matter of practice, they should be the same width along the rib's length. Typically 9/16".

[MNBenny]

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These were by my dad today. That 3/4 mdf. More cutting tomorrow.

[parish]

You also have far far more nose ribs than center ribs and only have 4 back ribs. Yes you could hack off the unused section of back ribs to make flaps and ailerons, just too much fuss and getting them all identical would be tough.

[tbaylx]

You'd have to make them longer in order to account for the cut width when you trim them to length. That would change the overall length and curvature. Easier to rout them in the pieces and make the template the exact size.

[MNBenny]

What I'm talking is cutting out the nose and middle ribs from the full length ribs that we cut.

[Chris In Milwaukee]

Do you know the name of the bit? Also my dad made a suggestion.......what about cutting out 23 full ribs to start with then from there you cut out the middle and the nose ribs, and trailing edge ribs? The pocket ribs, flap, and aileron ribs would be made later.

i just discovered also that looking at the drawings.............from the root to middle rib number 6 is .032? Am I reading that right? Are all the nose ribs still .025?

Laminate or trim but is what they're called, as tbalx suggested.

You can certainly cut the ribs in any order you like. I created separate forms for the full-length ribs, and I did them last. But you can do them first if you like. No set order. If I recall, the kit factory doesn't use full-length ribs on the wing tip end. It's three pieces. Also an option.

You're correct, the center ribs from the root to outer edge of the fuel tank bay are .032". All others are .025".

[tbaylx]

http://www.leevalley.com/en/Wood/pag...435,46171&ap=1

That's a bit with upper and lower bearings. You can have the template on the top or bottom but it does limit the thickness of the stack you can work with.

The router bits you want are called either flush trim bits, template bits or laminate trim bits depending on the manufacturer. If your router supports 1/2" shanks buy that as opposed to the 1/4" shank bits. They tend to have more flex in them and are lighter duty

[MNBenny]

Do you know the name of the bit? Also my dad made a suggestion.......what about cutting out 23 full ribs to start with then from there you cut out the middle and the nose ribs, and trailing edge ribs? The pocket ribs, flap, and aileron ribs would be made later.

i just discovered also that looking at the drawings.............from the root to middle rib number 6 is .032? Am I reading that right? Are all the nose ribs still .025?