Need advice

[MNBenny]

Hi Chris thank you for that. It's the best I have right now. Can't buy anything until the 15th. I'm hoping dad will get a long bit and materials to build the router table tomorrow when it warms up.

[Chris In Milwaukee]

How about this for an idea. I traced this from cardboard to Masonite. With my dads help. Also I created a FB page for the build. Just look up Bearhawk 1227

Masonite (tempered hard board) typically comes in thicknesses up to 1/4", and doesn't really provide a lot of surface to run a router bit bearing against. It also tends to fray when cut or worked. Probably wouldn't be my first choice of material. I'd stick with MDF.

[Chris In Milwaukee]

That looks like a piece of particle-board shelving material to me up in post #33. Is that a correct observation? Particle board isn't bad, you have to have very sharp cutting tools when working with it. It tends to get "crumby" when you work with it because of the large wood particles that are used to make it. I probably wouldn't choose it as my first material, but it could work in a pinch. If I had my choice, I'd stick with MDF.

[Chris In Milwaukee]

What about using quarter piece of plywood for the temp plate? Might that work instead?

Plywood is okay. The only reason I shy'd away from it is because it tends to splinter on the edges when it's cut, routed, or sanded, leaving you with a less-than-perfect edge. I think that's why most folks use MDF for forms (myself included). MDF is very stable, it doesn't change dimensions very much with temperature and humidity, it's incredibly easy to cut, sand, and route, and aside from a fair amount of sawdust, you can do very precision things with it that you can't do with other lumber types. It gets high marks from me as the material of choice to use for building routing patterns. If you have an option, I'd certainly stay away from all other lumber types for the routing forms and stick with MDF unless you have no other option.

[Chris In Milwaukee]

Didn't someone say they traced there's to aluminum? I'm going try that. See what happens also what are people's thoughts on increasing the size of the flange? The plans say (I think 9/16) what about full inch or so?

I think I recall reading that. Mainly so that they have a master form to work with.

Having a full inch of flange is probably fine, but it adds weight. Maybe compromise on 3/4"?

[Chris In Milwaukee]

MOrning All,

Chris this going to sound insanely dumb that I ask this so sorry in advance.......When you cut the ribs out from the plans did you cut right on the line, and for the Aileron pocket rib did you leave the dashed line on the form block? It didn't look like it to me, but maybe I have to look again. Also I still can't find the bearhawk manuals. I bought them and downloaded them but can't find them. Will have to check my laptop once,

thank you in advance for the bandwidth.

Hi Benny,

I made a photocopy of that page of the plans (so I didn't have to cut up my expensive plans) and then measured to make sure that the stayed in scale (some copiers will slightly shrink or enlarge the source material). Then I cut them out to the line and glued them to a piece of MDF. After that, I sand up to the line, or maybe just until the line disappears (but no further). You'll want to make sure you have enough flange to rivet through after they are bent.

~Chris

[Chris In Milwaukee]

Would AS&S MDF? Or would a place like Menards or Mills Fleet sell MDF? Also what thickness do I need?

Menards is a fine place to get MDF (medium density fiberboard). It's going to be with the sheet goods by the plywood, particle board, and similar. Probably about $35-40 a sheet if memory serves me correctly.

[MNBenny]

[MNBenny]

How about this for an idea. I traced this from cardboard to Masonite. With my dads help. Also I created a FB page for the build. Just look up Bearhawk 1227

[MNBenny]

What about using quarter piece of plywood for the temp plate? Might that work instead?

[MNBenny]

Didn't someone say they traced there's to aluminum? I'm going try that. See what happens also what are people's thoughts on increasing the size of the flange? The plans say (I think 9/16) what about full inch or so?

[MNBenny]

Well I'm not sure where the manuals are at the very moment. I have on more place to check if it's not there then I will have to wait 2 weeks when I get paid.

[MNBenny]

MOrning All,

Chris this going to sound insanely dumb that I ask this so sorry in advance.......When you cut the ribs out from the plans did you cut right on the line, and for the Aileron pocket rib did you leave the dashed line on the form block? It didn't look like it to me, but maybe I have to look again. Also I still can't find the bearhawk manuals. I bought them and downloaded them but can't find them. Will have to check my laptop once,

thank you in advance for the bandwidth.

[MNBenny]

Would AS&S MDF? Or would a place like Menards or Mills Fleet sell MDF? Also what thickness do I need?

[S Lathrop]

How do I transfer the the drawing from the vallum on to the MDF?

I had the vallum printed and then glued the drawing to a piece of 1" thick maple to use as the form block for the ribs. My local FedEx store does blue prints.