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marking rib master form

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  • marking rib master form

    Thought i would get a blue print co. to copy my mylar master rib ( 1 or 2 copys ) onto mylar--- so I can sacrifice the copys. Thinking of using a new exacto to cut out the copy
    perhaps at the inside of the BOB marked line. Then use a fine mechanical pencil to trace it onto the MDF. Then rough out the MDF- the do a close cut on the band saw to within
    1/16 or less...... the I THINK i can simply put a sanding drum in the router and carefully trim the rest down to the line. Should be able to get pretty close that way. maybe a fine red
    sharpie might be better to make the mark than a pencil --- maybe I should prime the MDF white to see the line better --- and it might prevent the sharpie from bleeding out wider and causing
    confusion and ruining the precision Im going for.

    Does anyone know if a sanding drum will be balanced well enough to run in the router at its lowest speed ? Never tried that before..... should sand nicely if it doesnt blow up :-)
    Dont know what its lowest speed is--- have to look that up....

    Tim
    PS - the sears router is 12k to 25 K RPM. So the drum would have to withstand 12,000 RPM (!) Just called woodcraft and they confirmed that
    12,000 is way too much for a sanding drum. Now that I think about it - I remember it being some off-center even in the drill press a low speeds....
    Its really just a rubber stopper --- effectively--- no way to control its centering. A vert. spindle sander would be nice......
    Last edited by fairchild; 10-17-2017, 03:28 PM.

  • #2
    I made a paper copy of the mylar master and glued it to a piece of 1" hard maple. Then a trip to the band saw. I finished it with a board sander. I found it very handy to have a copy of the print on the rib master. I cut and finished right to the lines on the drawing. And yes, this does introduce a .050 or more error for ribs and skin but finishing to the line seemed more desirable.

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    • #3
      I taped the mylar onto my master blank, then used a pin to poke holes through it along the outline. That transferred a bunch of pin holes to the wood blank which I then traced out with a sharp pencil. Saved me having to mess with glue and copies etc. It takes a few minutes to poke al the appropriate holes to mark everything but its effective in transferring the original.

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