Router Bit Recommendation: This thing eats aluminum like nobodies business!

[SC Patrol 253]

After going through a couple of router bits, I have found an EXCELLENT bit to recommend.

Manufacturer: Whiteside (Made in NC for the Furniture Industry)
Spiral Flush Trim Solid Carbide with 2 bearings
Two Flute Up Cut (moves chips downward when mounted in a router table)
1 inch cutting length
3 inch overall length
1/4 shank (cuts tight corners)
Part # RFT2100

Although I live in SC and hale from NC, I am in no way connected with the company.

This thing eats aluminum like nobodies business.

Keep on building!

Todd Ramsey
Patrol # 253

[aerolite]

Or you could use one of these, sorry Todd, I couldn't resist I know, I'm spoiled!

[SC Patrol 253]

Hey, i'd be proud of that too! Sent from my iPhone

[DRLPatrol]

You can tell your boss it worked and you sold another bit. Just kidding, thanks for the review. Just ordered one off amazon.
Doug

[Chewie]

Question - what is the inner diameter of the bearings?

Mark

[DRLPatrol]

Can't help you Mark, they appear to be pressed on. What are you trying to do?
Doug

[Chewie]

I've seen on youtube if you put a smaller bearing on and use your form block as a profile, you can create another form block less 1/8" all around to use as a backer when flanging the ribs. I don't have to do it this way but I already have bearings lying around from some other bits I got at a garage sale. Would be nice if I could use them. They were held on with a socket screw.

[Bcone1381]

I have been using a router bit very similar to the bit recommended in post #1, except my bit throws the AL chips away from the router, and out instead of towards the router (down when mounted in a router table). The downside of my bit is that the lifting force created by the bit to extract the chips also lifts the workpiece. This has scared me a couple times, but no injuries. So, I am seeing that the recommended bit is safer, yet am concerned that the aluminum chips from going through the router motor would be harmful and lead to an extremely quick failure of the router motor.

[N3UW]

I built a thin plastic shield that fit between the router and the bit and connected up a vaccum. It sucked all the metal bits out and did not interfere with air flow to the router. Not sure if it helps the router but it sure keeps the chips under control better. Keeps most of the chips from flying all over the place and burning my arm.

[sjt]

The router is going to grab no matter what you do. Sooner or later you will drop your guard. That said, it does the job quickly. Like John said, some sort of shield, tape and a vacuum are required.

I liked both the 1/2 inch and the 1/4 inch spiral cut carbide whiteside bits. I got mine on amazon. I used the spiral that pulls the chips into the router- and hence pulls the blank down. I think the router bits are up cut flutes.

The picture is the second router I used- do not ask what happened to the first one. I got it at Sears for less then $90. A 2 HP router easily cuts over .125 of material in a pass.

p.s.
I had to use the vacuum to clean up the huge amount of aluminum chips that go everywhere.

[Bcone1381]

I am using the Whiteside 1/2" bit that ejects the chips away from the router. I think I will switch to try their 1/4" bit that ejects the chips towards the router. The improvement will be especially nice when cutting out the inside of my litening holes to reduce the material that is removed and improve the safety of process. Using that bit did not make sense until reading your feedback on The protection the router motor.

With my set up I feel comfortable trimming no more than .075 of material. I am in no hurry, but it's a more than a cautious operation. Since One of my goals is to fly my Patrol with all ten fingers, I will change bits, and modify the router setup to contain the chips like you both did.

Sounds like the shield will be below the router table insert but above the router with enough clearance to allow airflow into the router motor, with a shop vac to collect the chips. BTW, a "sure fire" way to burn a house down is to collect these hot chips with your wood shop dust collector.

[Chewie]

I ended up using a Freud 42-114 1/2" laminate bit most of the time. It cut much smoother than the 1/4" spiral type.

[Chris In Milwaukee]

Bosch for me. 1/2" x 1-1/2" Flush Trim Bit.

http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-85601MC-Diameter-Carbide-Trimming/dp/B000GYDXD6

I've cut two sets of 4-place ribs with it, and it's still going strong. Stack up ten sheets in the routing jig and it eats chews through them like a champ. Of course it's raining metal, but it works great!

[Bcone1381]

My conclusion on router bits for cutting Sheet Aluminum...
- the 1/2" down cut bit when used in a router table is dangerous, and requires precaution that exceeds what's prudent due to it's lifting force on the material.
-the 1/4 " up cut bit is a pussycat.

Additionally, I measured the temperature of the 1/4" bit after long cuts over a several hour period, cutting .100" of material with a 1.75 hp router. The temperature never went above 140F and normally was 125-130F. your not going to burn up a 1/4" bit out cutting AL. I think cutting MDF is harder on these bits than AL.

[Base363]

So I have been using the bits mentioned in the topic. Very good results, but after a while the edges of the blanks were a little rough. The first ones were very smooth. Is it technique or could the bit be dulling a little? Nothing that can't be cleaned up, but the first 10 almost didn't need any smoothing? Opinions?