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  • Straightening Ribs

    Hey everyone,

    I've been working on wing ribs off and on for a while, and while they started out great as flat pieces fresh out of the routing jigs, I wasn't at all happy with the way they started looking when being bent over forms and holes flanged. Just short of scrapping them and starting over, I thought I'd see if there was a better way to get them straight. Using a combination of a few techniques I researched in several other builders' logs (even those outside of the Bearhawk world), I came up with a technique that totally straightened out those little turds, and dangit if they don't look wonderful. I'm seriously relieved!

    I started in the usual fashion of routing the ribs, clamping them into the form sandwich, hammering over the edges, and the flanging the holes. No matter what I did, they were coming out a twisted mess. I'm sure it had everything to do with pressures applied here and there and everywhere, but it just wasn't washing out which ones needed to be tweaked. So I gave it a little bit of help.

    Starting with the oak bending form, I'm sure we've all drawn the lines on the edge of the board so we knew where the rivets were to go, and then we transferred those to the ribs, and then made sure we made our flutes between those marks. I helped mine out a little bit by chucking up a 1/4" straight-cutting bit into my router, and cut a channel right in the center of the lines. Then I took some sandpaper and a block and relieved the edges as to not damage and tear the metal (ask me how I know this needs to be done). Lastly, I marked it with a Sharpie so I could see the notch more clearly.

    Second, since I already had these ribs flanged, I had to cut a circular relief about 1/4" deep on the inside surface so that the lightening hole flanges had somewhere to go. The form is two-sided (flip the backer board for left or right), so one relief circle on one side, one on the other, as you can see in the pictures.

    After sandwiching the rib in the form, I went over the rib flange with a TMT flow-forming head in my rivet gun at the suggestion of N3UW and his building project, although I found later I really didn't need it. I then used a 1/4" diameter screwdriver and rubber mallet, and I lightly pounded the flutes into the notches on an angle to stretch the metal across the flats of the form. It's amazing how much more effective this was than the fluting pliers approach for me. And the flats of the form really helped to shape the ribs and keep everything straight. It only took a few minutes per rib if I was taking my time.

    Lastly, I removed the rib from the form, and took it to the flange straightener, also at N3UW 's suggestion, and it's absolutely amazing how straight those ribs came out! There's hope for me yet!

    You know, there are hundreds of ways to build an airplane, and it's so cool to see how others do things. Combine a few of those techniques together, and magic happens.

    Hopefully someone can use this technique to their advantage as well. It certainly saved me hours and hours and hours of rework!

    Best regards,
    Chris
    You do not have permission to view this gallery.
    This gallery has 8 photos.
    Christopher Owens
    Bearhawk 4-Place Scratch Built, Plans 991
    Bearhawk Patrol Scratch Built, Plans P313
    Germantown, Wisconsin, USA

  • #2
    Looking good Chris! Great photos.

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    • #3
      That's cool Chris, especially that screwdriver method. How did you know how deep to make the channels?
      -Mark
      Mark
      Scratch building Patrol #275
      Hood River, OR

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      • #4
        Guesstimating, mostly. Having originally fluted them with pliers, I knew that it took a bit to shrink them to be straight. So I went in the depth of the bit (1/4"), and that proved to be right. It doesn't take that much in most cases, especially in the flat parts of the rib. Just give it a couple of taps with the hammer and move to the next slot. It will even itself out. If you need more, go back, tap again, until it's even. The curvy parts will need more attention because they need more stretching. Then go back with the mallet and hammer out the flats so they're, well, flat :-). Move on to the next one.

        I'll be redoing the center ribs this week. I'll post the results when I get some done.
        Christopher Owens
        Bearhawk 4-Place Scratch Built, Plans 991
        Bearhawk Patrol Scratch Built, Plans P313
        Germantown, Wisconsin, USA

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        • #5
          I ran across some Sonex guys who seem to be doing it like that.


          Your build is ahead of mine, but I had hoped to see some Bearhawkers doing like this before I got there.

          Brooks
          Patrol #303
          Brooks Cone
          Southeast Michigan
          Patrol #303, Kit build

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          • #6
            I believe that's the very site/page that was my inspiration. He appears to have made the slots with a Forsner bit, and the flutes are quite a big wider and further apart. Given how close together the rivets are in the Bearhawk wing, I went smaller. The way his is configured, he'd have had to make both a left and right jig. Thankfully, mine only requires one
            Christopher Owens
            Bearhawk 4-Place Scratch Built, Plans 991
            Bearhawk Patrol Scratch Built, Plans P313
            Germantown, Wisconsin, USA

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            • #7
              Chris,
              I liked your method. I also tried the method in the Sonex link you showd but the need to make a right and left did not make it worth it. Your method is easier. I did find that for me the fluting pliers worked well on a flat table. It only took a couple minutes per rib.
              John Snapp (Started build in Denver, CO) Now KAWO -Arlington Washington Bearhawk Patrol - Plans #255 Scratch built wing and Quickbuild Fuselage as of 11/2021. Working on skinning the left wing! -Ribs : DONE -Spars: DONE, Left wing assembly's: DONE., Top skins : DONE YouTube Videos on my building of patrol :https://m.youtube.com/user/n3uw

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              • #8
                Your method worked great, John, because you flanged the holes first. When I made a few fresh like you did, they were works of art. Sadly, I was on a repair mission and needed some extra coercion!
                Christopher Owens
                Bearhawk 4-Place Scratch Built, Plans 991
                Bearhawk Patrol Scratch Built, Plans P313
                Germantown, Wisconsin, USA

                Comment


                • #9
                  92 fabulously straight nose ribs, ready to rock and roll! Yep, there's enough for two airplanes there.
                  You do not have permission to view this gallery.
                  This gallery has 1 photos.
                  Christopher Owens
                  Bearhawk 4-Place Scratch Built, Plans 991
                  Bearhawk Patrol Scratch Built, Plans P313
                  Germantown, Wisconsin, USA

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    This is the Best video I have seen on the rib forming method that Chris used.

                    Can our ribs made of 2024-T3 be formed this easily?


                    Brooks Cone
                    Scratch building Patrol #303
                    Cutting out my Aluminum wing parts.
                    Last edited by Bcone1381; 06-30-2015, 01:22 PM.
                    Brooks Cone
                    Southeast Michigan
                    Patrol #303, Kit build

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