Transferring drawing #7 to the form block

[Flynguy521]

I do not want to cut on the original drawing so I decided to try a copy. I called up Kinkos and described what I needed and asked if it would be something they could do and they said yes. So I go and get an engineering copy. Well, when I layed it out with the original on top it was off by 1/8". The copy was short. So that was a no go. Now I am going to try the carbon paper taped together and tracing method. If anyone has used the Kinkos method with success I would like to here about it.

[Collin Campbell]

I liked the idea of saving the original drawing too. But I didn't trust the accuracy of the copying process, plus the fact that paper tends to be very unstable due to humidity/moisture. (That's the reason Bob puts it on mylar) I ended up tracing the original directly onto the form block material with carbon paper. Lot's of guys just cut out the mylar, but I understand wanting to keep it.

Collin Campbell,
Bolivar, MO (Bearhawk N370CC, Patrol 180PB) waiting on registration from OK

[DRLPatrol]

For the guys that cut it out, what are they using to temporarily glue it to the MDF? I'm thinking glue it down without cutting, rough cut, sand to line on mylar, remove mylar. That way you don't introduce errors at each step, cutting mylar, tracing, then cutting MDF.
I have been thinking of asking Bob if he would sell spare copies of the mylar and other pages of the plans that needed to be cut up so I could keep my originals.

Doug

[Flynguy521]

Collin, Did you use a roll of carbon paper or did you tape several sheets together. Been trying to find a roll available around town at various craft stores and no luck so far. They have the sheets so I may end up taping it. I guess as long as it's secure to the mdf and the original is secure it shouldn't be an issue. Thanks, Andy

[Collin Campbell]

Andy, I just taped several sheets together. Worked just fine. I don't know if they make carbon paper in a roll, at least I am not aware of it. I know that Bob will sell you a extra set of drawings for the shop, (several have done it) don't know about the mylar, you could ask him though. That way you could just contact cement the mylar to the form block wood and cut it out.

Collin

[Jflyer]

Collin and Andy
Yes, you can buy carbon paper in a roll like wax paper. Try a local art supply store. I bought some at Michael's Art and Craft Supply.


For reproducing my drawings I use a local blueprinting company. Kelly Blue Printing here in Naples. Blueprinting companies are much better for reproducing drawings than Kinkos, or other fast-food type copy shops. Blueprinting companies don't just copy the drawings. They scan them in and then print them out from the digital copy. This way they have a digital copy ready to go for the customer when the need more. Such as builders and architects tend to repeatedly need more copies as the project progresses.


I always ask for my drawings to then be burned onto a CD so I have a backup copy in digital format (PDF). The blueprinting company can then manipulate and scale the digital drawing larger or smaller with all the dimensions changing (scaling) in the same ratio.


Blueprinting companies can also reproduce your drawings onto Mylar. I always ask them to use the thickest Mylar available which I think is 6mil (maybe). I have drawings that have been in my garage (South FLA, heat - humidity) for 5 years and there is zero shrinkage or distortion. The other bonus to thick Mylar is the after being rolled up for 5 years, the plans unroll and layout flat.


One set of plans I am referring to are the Hatz Biplane. All of the 'actual size' template drawings have a measuring or datum point on them to use for verification of scale when reproducing to use for your templates. Some of these measuring points are simply a printed 12 inch ruler scale. The Hatz Main wing rib drawing has a dimension of 25 inches between the spars on center. I have the blueprint company 'scale' the digital drawing until that dimension is dead on when printed out and that causes all other dimension on the same page to scale to the correct size.

FYI: That 25 inch dimension on the Hatz Rib drawing printed on Mylar was dead-nuts perfect after 5 years in the garage. Use Mylar always for template drawings. No distortion due to heat and humidity.


I recommend you take a ruler and draw an exact 12 inch straight line with 90 degree vertical end points and have the blueprinting company scale the digital drawing until that line measures exactly 12 inches on the new Mylar drawing. Also, these small mom and pop blueprint companies will be glad to help out. They actually enjoy the airplane drawings as it breaks with their traditional day to day. I'm known as the 'Airplane Guy' at Kelly Blueprinting. To reproduce the Bearhawk Drawings and burn the CD with digital copies, the total cost was $33.


I hope this helps.

[N3UW]

I cut it out and used a low tack spray adhesive from the hardware store to tack it to the wood. I was then able to trace onto the wood easily. I was then able to remove drawing #4 without damage and then cut close to the line and then sanded to the line. I would highly recommend this way.

[Flynguy521]

Thanks for the responses guys!

[S Lathrop]

I made a copy of the mylar drawing and then I glued the copy of the drawing to the form block.

I have found it very useful to have all the detail of drawing 7 on the form block.

I made the copy and glued it the same day to minimize the dimensioning issues. Also the form block is probably as unstable as the paper over a short period.

[S Lathrop]

I made a copy of the mylar drawing and then I glued the copy of the drawing to the form block.

I have found it very useful to have all the detail of drawing 7 on the form block.

I made the copy and glued it the same day to minimize the dimensioning issues. Also the form block is probably as unstable as the paper over a short period.