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I recently did a project to winterise the Bearhawk cabin.
I have done several winter's worth of flying and at some points in weather -18*C outside air temp. The heater is pretty powerful in our plane, but the air leakage and drafts were far too much for it. We had to fly with big puffer down jackets and thick gloves. Great to touch-screen EFIS!
The cabin itself was already well sealed on the inside by the fabric interior - another big advantage for fabric. I just needed to focus on the windows. We had no window or door seals originally, in order to save weight. The seals I have added were less than 200 grams (0.4 lb) and worth every gram.
I will add some photos soon.
I have added rubber dome seals to the leading edge of the windows and the rear baggage doors, 12mm wide by 10mm high. I have used the same seals on the lower doors too.
IMG_20180609_112718.jpg
IMG_20180609_114305.jpg ​​​​​
I've used a foam rubber seal for the trailing edges, because they have a wider fit and lower tolerance. The foam strips 15mm wide by 10mm high
IMG_20180609_114333.jpg
IMG_20180609_114340.jpg
I used a brush seal for the seal between the front windows and doors, because the fit is tight (about 4mm) and the air will try to remove the seals with the windows open.
IMG_20180609_112650.jpg
All the seals were self-adhesive type and available at your local hardware store. I cleaned thoroughly with Turps before each application and they have stuck like glue.
The impact of these seals has been huge. We've gone from probably the most drafty aircraft with an enclosed cabin which I have flown in, to one of the most airtight. I can hardly find a small leak anywhere.
The net result is, when the heater is on the plane becomes very warm, quickly. I am very happy with this change, and would recommend it to anyone who likes to stay warm without bulky clothing.
I have done several winter's worth of flying and at some points in weather -18*C outside air temp. The heater is pretty powerful in our plane, but the air leakage and drafts were far too much for it. We had to fly with big puffer down jackets and thick gloves. Great to touch-screen EFIS!
The cabin itself was already well sealed on the inside by the fabric interior - another big advantage for fabric. I just needed to focus on the windows. We had no window or door seals originally, in order to save weight. The seals I have added were less than 200 grams (0.4 lb) and worth every gram.
I will add some photos soon.
I have added rubber dome seals to the leading edge of the windows and the rear baggage doors, 12mm wide by 10mm high. I have used the same seals on the lower doors too.
IMG_20180609_112718.jpg
IMG_20180609_114305.jpg ​​​​​
I've used a foam rubber seal for the trailing edges, because they have a wider fit and lower tolerance. The foam strips 15mm wide by 10mm high
IMG_20180609_114333.jpg
IMG_20180609_114340.jpg
I used a brush seal for the seal between the front windows and doors, because the fit is tight (about 4mm) and the air will try to remove the seals with the windows open.
IMG_20180609_112650.jpg
All the seals were self-adhesive type and available at your local hardware store. I cleaned thoroughly with Turps before each application and they have stuck like glue.
The impact of these seals has been huge. We've gone from probably the most drafty aircraft with an enclosed cabin which I have flown in, to one of the most airtight. I can hardly find a small leak anywhere.
The net result is, when the heater is on the plane becomes very warm, quickly. I am very happy with this change, and would recommend it to anyone who likes to stay warm without bulky clothing.
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