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Aileron Cable install

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  • #31
    You have installed the Big Hole fairlead. The second fairlead is the Small Hole fairlead. Its more precise positioning your cabel. I think it will lift your cable up 1/4 inch . Will that make a difference?

    Screen Shot 2022-12-01 at 3.50.00 PM.pngScreen Shot 2022-12-01 at 3.50.13 PM.png
    Last edited by Bcone1381; 12-01-2022, 03:02 PM. Reason: clarification
    Brooks Cone
    Southeast Michigan
    Patrol #303, Kit build

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    • #32
      On Rib 5? I don't think a smaller fairlead would help, the slight shift in location would only increase the interference on Rib 6. I ended up installing the fairlead on Rib 6 instead of notching.
      Mark
      Scratch building Patrol #275
      Hood River, OR

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      • #33
        On the Patrol only two fairlead bushings are required, one at the flap drive and the other at the wing root. You will spend a lot of time figuring out where to enlarge or punch clearance holes. I followed Brook's method and it worked out pretty well. I did give a lot of thought to how I would service the interior wing fairlead if I ever had to remove it. Getting that snap ring out deep inside the wing would be painful so I fabricated a little removable mount that I could easily access with a socket wrench.
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        This gallery has 2 photos.
        Last edited by spinningwrench; 12-03-2022, 04:12 PM.

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        • #34
          I'm not sure what you mean. Which rib are you showing in that picture?
          Mark
          Scratch building Patrol #275
          Hood River, OR

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          • #35
            Getting that snap ring out deep inside the wing would be painful
            I used lock wire on those similarly located fairleads - a bit easier to install and remove than the rings.
            Nev Bailey
            Christchurch, NZ

            BearhawkBlog.com - Safety & Maintenance Notes
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            • #36
              Originally posted by spinningwrench View Post
              On the Patrol only two fairlead bushings are required, one at the aileron bellcrank and the other at the wing root. You will spend a lot of time figuring out where to enlarge or punch clearance holes. I followed Brook's method and it worked out pretty well. I did give a lot of thought to how I would service the interior wing fairlead if I ever had to remove it. Getting that snap ring out deep inside the wing would be painful so I fabricated a little removable mount that I could easily access with a socket wrench.
              I used two fairleads, but the outboard fairlead is at rib 5 near the flap drive linkage where the aileron cable changes direction at rib. The cable runs horizontal from the root until it hits that rib, then it starts a descent towards the aileron bell crank. I don't have a fairlead at rib 10.
              Brooks Cone
              Southeast Michigan
              Patrol #303, Kit build

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              • #37
                My arrangement is similar.
                It's sounding like you guys had factory ribs that required you to bore additional holes in each rib outboard the flap drive until you reach the bellcrank. On my scratch built ribs, I simply followed the plans and the larger lightening hole negated any need to calculate pass thru locations. Am I interpreting that right?
                Mark
                Scratch building Patrol #275
                Hood River, OR

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                • Bcone1381
                  Bcone1381 commented
                  Editing a comment
                  You are correct. The Ribs for the factory build wings are all the same. Some cable holes passed close to the lightening hole and have to be beefed up with some additional aluminum.
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