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Control stick torque tube support spacing

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  • Control stick torque tube support spacing

    I have a quickbuild kit from 2015 (yeah, I already know I should be done by now). I ran into a problem trying to mount the torque tube for the control sticks. I could install the tube on one of the rod end bearings, but the other wouldn't line up. On page 29 of the plans it shows a spacing of 28 3/4". My torque tube appears to have the correct spacing, but the spacing on the fuselage is about 28 5/8". That's way to much discrepancy to easily fix as near as I can tell. Has anyone run into this, or does anyone have any suggestions on what to do? I don't have any welding capability, but it appears that's going to be required unless I'm missing something.

    Mark called me with the solution to this problem (Thanks Mark!). The rear rod end bearing mount is on a horizontal frame member of the fuselage. According to Mark, you "tap" on the cross member to move it into the correct position. In my case I needed to move it aft about 1/8". In practice the "tapping" involved swinging a 10 pound sledge a foot or two into the frame while my wife held the airframe to keep it from taking off on me. I started more gently, but the hammer just bounced off the frame. That is one tough structure. Even with the bigger swings it took quite a few "taps", but it definitely did the trick, and I have the control stick assembly installed now. According to Mark another builder came up with this fix and it was approved by Bob.
    Last edited by NorCalScott; 06-01-2020, 08:16 PM.

  • #2
    So its .125 off. When I installed mine things were tight. Meaning the bearings were tight and resistance was high.

    The threaded fitting for the rod end bearing is on a fuselage cross bar at station D. I put a block of wood on the cross tube snugged next to the fitting then gave it (what I will call) a calibrated whack with a 1 pound dead blow hammer. I may have also put some tension on it with a ratchet strap carefully paced and carefuly tightened. I was able to get it lined up perfectly once tightened and whacked.

    My Calibrated whack was measured. I'd back the hammer up 6 inches and whack the wood block. not enough....lets try 8 moved a little, try a second, third time. got it. I did this so that I did not move it too far.

    I cant imagine the factory getting that fitting exactly in place to give you zero friction. Tolerances are way too tight.
    Brooks Cone
    Southeast Michigan
    Patrol #303, Kit build


    • NorCalScott
      NorCalScott commented
      Editing a comment
      Looks like I'm the only one that didn't think to use a hammer to fix this. I don't usually think of "hammer", "airplane", and "good idea" all at the same time.

    • Mark Goldberg
      Mark Goldberg commented
      Editing a comment
      The factory now fits all these parts to the fuselage before painting to make sure it all is aligned properly. Mark