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Resistant aileron nose ribs

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  • Resistant aileron nose ribs

    047F6E8E-20B0-4CD7-813B-5B71F5C70EF2.jpegC8986A66-D0E1-4795-A6ED-1D879C7846ED.jpeg I re did my Bravo aileron nose ribs

    Ive edited this post to add some details so other builders wont mess this part up like I did...Alaska Bearhawk has added a link to a mallet that would have done the job properly...long story short my rubber mallet was just too soft to deal with this part...what follows is a long winded explanation of how I went wrong with this part... you feel stupid when everyone before you didnt have a problem with making this part and you discover a new way to screw it up... ;)

    to this point in my build, my trusty rubber mallet has worked great but seems to has met its match with the aileron nose rib...the area giving me trouble at the very nose of the rib..

    the problem was my rubber mallet was just too soft to get the metal to form in the area and lay flat..2024 being pretty stiff material...my mallet has the feel like the material from a pencil eraser....moving up to a stiffer hammer would probably have done the trick ... I didnt think of that then ....and used a different technique with a brass mallet to get the metal to follow the form shape...

    with the hammering (using soft rubber mallet) on the 1st set I ended up crushing the radius on some of the ribs and decided to start the set over again...this time doing it a little differently..

    I`m no expert...so consult one before you do what im suggesting...

    I set the rib blank on the bottom former with no top former... (lets call this naked rib forming)...held it on the table with my palm holding it down and the 2 bolts sticking up through the rib blank holding it in position ....and I was able to set the beginning of the curve/radius nicely on the part using a brass mallet...there was no deformation from not having the top former on and I could really get at the edge to form the radius really well...I set the curve to about 30 degrees then put the top former on and finished it, with a rubber mallet
    Last edited by way_up_north; 05-22-2022, 02:39 PM.

  • #2
    Why aren't you using a soft-faced hammer?

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    • #3
      (I re-edited my post above ...originally it didnt mention what mallet type I had used)

      I did use a soft rubber mallet on the first batch of 16 ribs....the main problem area was near the nose... it would not follow the radius no mater how many blows or angle I came at it...I think the issue is the rubber mallets spreads the force over a wide area ...and this spot needs focused energy to get the metal to lay flat...if I had a harder rubber mallet maybe this whole issue might not have happened... at the time it didnt occur to me to go and buy a harder rubber mallet to try...

      if I had used a rubber mallet the first time around but had used the naked rib technique... it probably would have worked out fine...


      im not recommending using a brass mallet but i did want to see if it helped in the problem area ...I used it on the aileron nose on the second set to get the radius started to 30 degrees and the aluminum formed on the curve nicely .... I used a rubber mallet to complete the job..

      the brass hammer gives a more focused energy blow.... rather then the wide dispersed energy of the rubber mallet
      Last edited by way_up_north; 05-22-2022, 02:42 PM.

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      • #4
        I don't know where you got your information, but the nose ribs on the A and B are the same, .025. The only real difference between the two is the airfoil shape.

        You really run the risk of denting the AL flange. Sounds like you're careful. I used a 24oz Snap-On dead blow to form all my steel ribs and it worked just fine. Even cheaper on Amazon:

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        • #5
          Originally posted by alaskabearhawk View Post
          I don't know where you got your information, but the nose ribs on the A and B are the same, .025. The only real difference between the two is the airfoil shape.

          You really run the risk of denting the AL flange. Sounds like you're careful. I used a 24oz Snap-On dead blow to form all my steel ribs and it worked just fine. Even cheaper on Amazon:

          https://www.amazon.com/YIYITOOLS-Ham...84V7WBVR&psc=1
          You’re correct .... not sure were I got that from...I took a look at Eric’s s wing material list on the mybearhawk site...thats based on the older model and like you said it’s .025...I’ll correct my posts above...

          thanks for the Amazon link...
          Last edited by way_up_north; 05-22-2022, 02:43 PM.

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