Rotisserie

[huntaero]

Here is a rotisserie I built for the Bearhawks, since I took these pics I have modified the tail stand to include a hyd ram same as the front. I could supply measurements if any-one would like. Great for welding, fabric work and setup,

[huntaero]

[lsa140]

Very nicely done. That is a clever way to telescope tubing of different size variations and avoid the weld seam. I will be using that trick for sure.

[Bdflies]

Looks like a fine rotisserie! The thing about such devices, is that they're just in the way, when you've finished that phase of the project. So, when you're finished (say, about April), ship that thing down to Louisiana! I'll be ready to cover, about then. When I'm done with it, I'll pass it along... 😎

Bill

[huntaero]

I never been to Louisiana, have a Citabria for cover after this project and a Luscombe 8A after that, but could send you dimensions 90% done 90% to go.

[Bdflies]

It's such a nice rotisserie, I'm sure several folks around here would appreciate dimensions and any construction details that you'd share.
Never been to Louisiana? Well, we have some great food, nice folks and a great bunch of aviation minded guys! Never actually counted, but there are at least a dozen grass strips in a 20 mile radius of mine. Unseasonably warm today, in the mid 70's. Oh, yeah, we've got some of the wackiest politicians you can imagine! When you're in the area, drop a note and I'll direct you to a suitable strip, we'll put you up for the night, fatten you up a bit and introduce you to some memorable characters!

Bill

[huntaero]

Sounds like fun, I will get a list of material and dimensions and lots of pics together for everyone to enjoy. thanks George

[Have-Purple]

I'm in Rotisserie build mode too. Any chance you could post the specs of your system huntaero ?

[huntaero]

Hello Have-purple I put the plans materials list and a bunch of pics on the Forum under rotisserie have fun

[huntaero]

ill be heading hom from Mexico on the 13 so ill do up a some pics and dimensions

[geraldmorrissey]

I have a fuselage to build this year so I'm interested in your fixture as well.
Cheers
Gerry

[huntaero]

Rotisserie
I used this rotisserie to do welding on the fuse also to install the fabric, buildup and painting. For the stringers you can rotate the fuse level with the hyd rams and use a laser level to mark out the stringers, so they are all straight. Also used it to paint the wings with adapters shown in pics.
Materials stand;
2” square tube steel 0.125 wall 74” per stand.
1-1/2” square tube steel 0.125 wall 33” per stand.
1” square steel tube 0.100 wall 48” per stand.
4 swiveling casters with 2” steel wheels per stand. (I welded mine on)
1 flat bottom hyd. ram 3-ton ram, closed height 24” and extended height 43.250”.($80.00 at Princess auto)($60.00 at Harbour freight)
2 universal joints 7/8 dia. with keyway ($41.00 on Amazon)(Bailey Hydraulics $40.00).
1 4”X5” Approx flat steel plate ¼” weld to the cross tube to mount hyd. jack.
6” piece of tube with 7/8” inside dia. that doesn’t have a weld seam inside to weld to the top of the tail stand to let the shaft rotate, leave it offset for future use.
You will need some 7/8” shaft with a keyway for the tail stand and to make your holding fixtures (same size as most overhead door torsion shafts) (Bailey Hydraulics $50.00 for 3 ft piece)($14.00 ft at Big Bearing store)
1 7/8” dia. Shaft collar to install on the tail stand thru shaft.($5.00 at Princess Auto)
Speed reducer;
1 speed reducer around 30:1. You will need a weld on hub to fit the input shaft with keyed hole, flat steel with 3/8” shaft to make a crank for the input end.
1 40X60 weld-on sprocket this will give you 60 positions for stops.($50.00 at Princess Auto)
1 weld-on hub with inside dia. 7/8” keyed and outside to fit sprocket keep the sprocket as close as possible to the 2”x2” mount so the lock pin wont bend when it is engaged in the sprocket. ($10.00 at Princes auto)
12” 2”x2” steel square tube for speed reducer mount.
1 piece of 3/8” shaft for the lock approx. 4“long. Drill the hole once the reducer and sprocket are mounted, using one of the sprocket teeth as a drill guide. Round off the pin end so it will slide into the sprocket easily and leave it long enough, so it won’t drop out of the tube and never get lost. Weld a small angle to it for a handle.
You will need 1 length of keyway, should be 3/16” to lock the drive end and the u joints to fuselage fixture this is a must as the set screws will not hold it from turning.
4 3/8” bolts to mount the hyd. jack and 4 ½ bolts to mount the speed reducer and one to mount the top of the ram.
For the stand with the hyd. Ram:
My first tail-stand I had holes in the upper inner tube and had to manually lift the tail and put a pin in the appropriate hole, but it gets heavy, that’s why I used a hyd. ram on both ends.
I welded a small piece of square tube cutoff about 1” long then cut in half to give 2 90-degree pieces, at the bottom of the large tube and on the top of the inner tube using the same corner this prevents binding and won’t allow the tubes to separate and fall over as it will act as a stop. When welding these in make sure the internal welded seam is avoided by placement of the 90 degree angles. On this installation the smaller tube gets welded to the cross member. Make sure they are installed on the same corners and assembled before they are welded to the stand.
Stand without a hyd. ram:
Weld the 90-degree pieces on the lower end of the smaller tube and upper end of the larger end and weld the larger tube to the cross member.
You will need something to hold the stands together and to also keep them aligned as the u joints will let the ends go 90 degrees if not restrained. Also keeps the stands from kicking out, you can use tubing or conduit etc. make it adjustable so you can use it for the wings, also great for painting and striping.