Need advice

[Chris In Milwaukee]

The important thing to remember is to have a smooth, consistent 9/16" flange on the top and bottom edges of your rib. It looks like your dad did a good job cleaning them up for you as long as the rib profile matches the master rib drawing, and you have enough flange to rivet to, you should be good to go.

[MNBenny]

Hi Chris. How's it going? How do these patterns look to you?

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[Chris In Milwaukee]

Those look great. The router should follow those very nicely. You have a consistent flange on the top and bottom now? The first set looked the they got narrower toward the back on the bottom rib flange.

[MNBenny]

So what would you recommend I do?

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[MNBenny]

The photos are of the same patterns just at different angles.

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[MNBenny]

How do you put radius especially in the patterns?

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[tbaylx]

Here's what Chris was talking about with the even flanges. Make sure they are the same width front to back on your pattern

[tbaylx]

As for a radius on the patterns you only need those for your form blocks. The router templates for cutting out rib blanks don't need a radius.
To put a radius in your form block you can either sand it by hand if you're careful to keep it consistent, or you can use a roundover bit on your router.

[MNBenny]

Are mine not the same distance


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[MNBenny]

So let me guess.....I have to do these over again to?


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[tbaylx]

If they aren't even then yep, you'll have to do it again. Use the washer trick to make them even.
First make a full length rib pattern without the flange, then once you've got the full length pattern with all your spars, centerline, spars and hole locations marked you can put a washer that has 9/16" from the edge of the center hole to the outside edge of the washer and just roll it along the outside edge of the form and trace the larger rib onto some MDF. Then you have a nicely traced out flange that will be even all along.
Dave Bottita has a good video on it. He shows the washer method around 18 minutes in but the whole video should prove helpful

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E4H8xxjgEQk

[Chris In Milwaukee]

Here's what Chris was talking about with the even flanges. Make sure they are the same width front to back on your pattern

I was just about to say the same. Dave's video is a great resource that explains this process well. He says it's a 1/16" distance, but he meant 9/16".

[MNBenny]

Maybe I'll try cutting a rib from it tomorrow and see what happens. Just for giggles.




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[MNBenny]

From


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[Chris In Milwaukee]

To answer the question, "Do I have to do this again," it depends. You have to have 2x the diameter of the rivet from the rivet's center to the edge of the material when you drill a hole through it. The skin fastens to these ribs with -3 rivets (3/32" diameter). As long as you can ensure that you have at least 3/16" of empty space between the hole and the edge of the metal in any direction, you're fine. So take a look at the spot toward the aft end of your rib *after* you've bent the flange. If you have enough room to drill a 3/32" hole *and* have 3/16" of empty metal all the way around it, then you're good to go. Having a 9/16" flange everywhere give you extra wiggle room if things aren't exactly straight.