Need advice

[MNBenny]

Think of how many ribs I could do with a 1/2" router bit😏


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[Chris In Milwaukee]

1/2" will be a little bit tougher. Otherwise nothing wrong with the 1/4". Just go slower so it doesn't break.

[tbaylx]

Why can't you mount that upside down? Any router can be mounted upside down as long as you drill the table insert to fit the router

[Chris In Milwaukee]

Judging from the photo it might be a trim router which has a smaller base. But even then it's probably got a protective skid plate mounted to the bottom whose holes you could certainly use. Just might not fit his current setup as you suggested. His previous set was a Skil. I wonder if it was a proprietary table/router setup?

i bet you could get it to work with some craftiness, as tbaylx suggests. But you may have creat an adapter of some sort if it's a different sized base.

[MNBenny]

The skill is a plunge router. Which Im not sure if that matters or not. The table is suppose to be a generic table from what dad said. Crap I might as well just go back to harbor freight and buy a table.


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[Chris In Milwaukee]

Plunge router doesn't really make a difference. If it won't fit your exsting table, then you may not have a choice without spending a lot of time to make it fit. Maybe HF has table adapters?

[MNBenny]

I'm not seeing any on their website


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[MNBenny]

I'll try cutting it from the top down and see what happens


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[Chris In Milwaukee]

Presuming you have wooden bench top, align one of your routing forms on the top and drill through the two jig holes through the table top. On your top form, countersink the holes to accept a flat head screw. Get screws long enough to go through the top form, through the aluminum sheet, through the bottom form, and then through the table top. Then use a washer and nut beneath the table top to squeeze it all together. Then you should able to route from the top, no problem, without snagging on anything.

[MNBenny]

And 4 ribs emerge....turns out the router was defective. How do these look? Turns the 1/2" bit was the one to use.










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[MNBenny]

Here the next set of 5......The mdf pattern will have to be redone as you can see on the aft side of the rib, but that problem I think can be solved by just sanding the ribs. Your thoughts?





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[Chris In Milwaukee]

No need to remove any material. They should be fine. The only reason to remove material is if the edges are rough or jagged. They look good to me.

[MNBenny]

Here are the next set of 6. They to will have to be sanded, but I don't think they look all that bad. The mdf pattern will have to be redone tomorrow.




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[Bcone1381]

When I did mine, I started making the smallest parts first. I made all the Aileron and Flap Nose ribs first. Then I tackled the Flap Ribs. By the time I was making the nose ribs, I felt I had a pretty good handle on things.

[MNBenny]

Bcone1381 that's what another chapter member suggested. Again I don't think the nose ribs looks all that bad. What say you


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