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Clearancing Exhaust Pipe

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  • Clearancing Exhaust Pipe

    I'm wondering if any of you guys have any experience or ideas on clearancing exhaust pipes and can provide any tips. I know some guys will dimple headers on automotive applications but I'm hoping to come up with a cleaner option. I'm hoping I can squish the pipe into an oval but attempts to do similar in the past did not produce desired results.

    I have a couple tight spots where my exhaust just touches my engine mount so I'm devising a plan to correct that issue.
    Last edited by whee; 02-06-2019, 09:53 AM.
    Scratch Built 4-place Bearhawk. Continental IO-360, 88" C203 McCauley prop.

  • #2
    Wonder if cerrobend would do the trick? My thinking is along the same line of making a squished tube round with oak blocks. Say you have a 3/4” diameter tube that isn’t round for some reason. The trick to making it round again is to bore a 3/4” hole though an oak block. Then cut the block in half center line with the bore. Then use a good “C” clamp to press the blocks together.. sounds goofy but it works. So...along the same line of thought. If the motor mount interferes with a straight section of exhaust pipe.. bore a block say 6” long to the same diameter as the exhaust pipe. Cut the block center line with the bore...then with a die grinder create a concave recess the same depth you need to gain the clearance of the exhaust pipe/motor mount. This is in the block opposite of the motor mount side of the exhaust pipe. then build up the area of the other block with a mixture of epoxy and oak sawdust. Contour that...then...fill that section of the exhaust pipe with cerrobend. Make sure you quench the hot cerrobend in cold cold water.. use a “C” clamp and 1/2” steel plate on both sides of the blocks to insure even distribution of pressure...the “C” clamp need to be one of the stout ones...capable of applying a lot of pressure...the clamps I have are rated at 2500 pounds of clamping force... with quenched cerrobend, it will force the exhaust pipe into the recessed side of your block.. might work?

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    • #3
      That Cerrobend sounds like cool stuff. I’m not sure I need it for the minor amount I need to squish the pipe, or do I?

      I like the oak block idea. I’ll have to see if I can locate a big enough chunk of oak, it’s 2” pipe I need to squish.
      Scratch Built 4-place Bearhawk. Continental IO-360, 88" C203 McCauley prop.

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      • #4
        Just for info, cerrobend is very expensive. When you calculate the cost of the amount of cerrobend required you may feel that it is cost prohibitive. It is great stuff and if your tubing material has the required ductility you can make some impressive bends. You can purchase from McMaster Carr.

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