Aileron gusset/skin flanges

[Frank]

For the flanges (snapshot from LSA plans), is this the tool you used? What angle of flange did you shoot for?Screen Shot 2022-03-22 at 10.23.56 AM.pngScreen Shot 2022-03-22 at 10.22.03 AM.png

[Pbruce]

For what it’s worth (I’m away from my project right now) the QB kits have quire a bit of angle. 15 degrees maybe? I have that tool, and I’m not sure it would provide that much bend. Maybe if you did multiple passes while twisting on it? However, I’m not sure that much bend is truly required to prevent chafing either. More is better from the standpoint of stiffness, of course. Also, the trading edges were similarly bent between the ribs. Hope this helps

[Frank]

Thanks. Yes that helps. The edge forming tool looks most valuable for overlapping edges of the skins. But maybe also for these flanges. I also could see using a sheet metal seamer tool.
Odd thing is, I think I see 90 degree flanges in some builders photos...

[Chewie]

I have this tool and only use it for sealing overlapping skins. The bend is very slight and I'm not sure it is appropriate or precise enough for full on flanges. Get it anyway for the seams, try making flanges on scrap and decide from there?

[Frank]

The little video Cleveland Tool put on their page for this tool was fascinating. Yes I think you're right. Buy it anyway and see if it will do both jobs.

[Bcone1381]

I found some photos that might be of interest. The Kit flange is circa 2017. The edge on my tail inspection cover was formed with the tool in Post 1. If I were a guessing man, I say the edge tool forms a 10 degree angle, and the gusset maybe has 30 degrees. The last photos shows how the fabric lays over the gusset.


Screen Shot 2022-03-23 at 11.19.40 AM.pngScreen Shot 2022-03-23 at 11.20.08 AM.pngScreen Shot 2022-03-23 at 11.24.15 AM.png

[Frank]

Thanks for the photos. Nice to see what the factory is supplying. The plans imply a flange which merges into the flat surface, there is no notch to cut, so naturally the flange has a curve to it.

[Gary Wallace]

Anything straight I used a brake...straighten out overlaps with smooth pliers ...

[Pbruce]

I never would have thought of that. But when I look at the pic from Bcone, it looks like the kits are done that way: bent in a brake, then straightened as required to float over the ribs. I think you’d want at least as much bend as pictured on the trailing edge to provide the needed stiffness.

[spinningwrench]

BEAFD86D-8F04-46A5-A27C-BF183D02BE4B.jpg4ABB0F89-34EB-4C04-946C-01A53C806EE2.jpg
Here is a shot from my QB kit

[OfTheWolf]

Frank I’m currently working on the LSA gussets as well and have been pondering this. Thanks for the input from others. I’m planning on using the brake where possible and modify w the flat vice grips.

[OfTheWolf]

Tried this on the little cheap brake I have seemed to work fine. Not quite as perfect as one might like but functional I think.

[Frank]

Great photos. Thanks!

[OfTheWolf]

Subsequently Used big brake w better results and quicker

[OfTheWolf]

For those scratch builders who have covered their ailerons- does anyone see any issue w successful covering if flanges were done similarly to my attached picture and not as the kit pictures supplied as a continuous flange?

[Bcone1381]

From a kit builder.... Apply Chafe Tape on every exposed sheet metal edge that touches the fabric (like the edges of the gussets that are presented by the gap.) An example of Chafe tape can bee seen though the transparent fabric in the last photo of post #4.