Flap Pushrod Bushing/torque?

A

Astro John

Well-known member
I had held off tightening and installing the cotter pin on the flap pushrod and decided to do that today.

I had an issue with my bushings in my kit. They decided to run off and hide somewhere I couldn't find them, so I made two new bushings.

The bushings are drawn as 1.26" long, and the part is 1.25".

However, when I torqued the castellated nut to min spec, the pushrod can't rotate.

Either I made the bushings a touch short, or those aren't meant to be torqued to spec.

Should I loosen the nuts, or redo the bushings a little bit longer?
 
Do you have a photo? Often, if a cotter key is in use, it means the bolt is a rotating axle and does not get torqued.
 
The design intends for a hinging action on the pushrod - flap arm interface. I think the industry best practice is lubricate the parts that move, then tighten as much as you can and still achieve a resistance free joint, locking the nut with a cotter pin.

My favorite lubricate for all my hinges is Fluid Film. It’s both an excellent corrosion inhibitor and lubricant and it does not evaporate. Joints are still wet a year later. One gallon will last a life time and be administered with an oiler.
 
Bcone1381 said:
The design intends for a hinging action on the pushrod - flap arm interface. I think the industry best practice is lubricate the parts that move, then tighten as much as you can and still achieve a resistance free joint, locking the nut with a cotter pin.

My favorite lubricate for all my hinges is Fluid Film. It’s both an excellent corrosion inhibitor and lubricant and it does not evaporate. Joints are still wet a year later. One gallon will last a life time and be administered with an oiler.
Click to expand...
Thanks, that certainly seems appropriate. I think you turned me on to Fluid Film a couple of years ago. I swear by the stuff now.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top