New profile posts

Hi Steve. On the B model wing (or the Model 5 wing) the aux tanks get installed in the 4th bay from the tip. There is room for the boost pumps in the adjoining inboard bay where all the aileron stuff is. Good luck. Mark
Hey Rod. I was looking for your phone number but couldn't find it. I would like to see a copy of the instructions that came with your RV10 baffle kit. Give me a call please. 512/626-7886. Thanks Rod. Mark
Hello Stefan. I clicked on the link to your blog section on installing the rear windows. Very well done. Mark
Hi Jon. I hope you and your family are safe and well. I am wondering if you happen to know which airplane repair shop there in Idaho currently has a BH that ground looped a while back. I think (but am not sure) that this is the BH that the N number ends in JS. The shop manager was named Dennis, but he retired. They ordered some parts from the factory to repair the plane but I do not have contact info for them. So I was wondering if you happen to know since you are in the neighborhood. Thanks Jon. Take care. Mark
John, please give me a call at your convenience. I want to ask your advice about rubber mat forming ribs. As far as I am concerned - you are the expert. Mark 512/626-7886
Mr N3UV - sorry I can't remember your name. I was watching your videos about rubber mat forming ribs. I am considering doing something similar at the kit factory. I would love to talk with you about it as your experience doing this could save me time and poor decisions going down the wrong path. Please give me a call when you have time. I would really appreciate your help and advice. 512/626-7886. Thanks. Mark
Hello Mike. Your depiction of the Model B in Solid Works looks good. At least to me that knows very little about SW. I would be interested in the work you do on your project getting the drawings and structure into SW. And willing perhaps to trade you some parts for your project from the kit factory. I assume you are a plans builder as I do not recognize your name and Shockley Nebraska.

If you have some interest in what I am suggesting - give me a call. Mark 512/626-7886
Mike - WayUp North got me thinking that it would indeed be fantastic to show off your BH at Oshkosh. Will you be flying there? We have displayed the same BH for 3 or 4 years straight. It would be fantastic to show off your gorgeous BH. Let me know if this is possible. FYI - we have a tradition of planes in the booth winning awards. Maybe it will be good luck. Your plane is that nice. Mark
Jon - I want to mention to you (I think again) that the fuel selector with a BOTH position is, from my point of view, an important safety feature. Without going into details, I saw my engine quit on my 4 place when I had a valve with only individual tanks rather than a BOTH position. You and your dad can do whatever you want obviously, but it is possible one day you might regret this decision. Because I respect you and your contributions to the forum - I am bringing this up to you. Mark
Hi Phil. Considering the AD on the hub and future possible unforeseen issues would you consider a $1200 USD offer? Thanks. Gary
Jon,
I've flown about 170 hours on the IO-360. I really like. i am in the process of mounting Clamar Amphibs. Also, we are doing home assignment this fall (we spend 3 years here in Brazil and 4 months in the states). The Bearhawk was running when i purchased it and we've made a few modifications, but now i'm really going through an doing a good inspection. I've got a friend that works at a mechanic shop so since I don't have much info about this experimental IO-360, I'm planning to pull the engine and have him do a teardown during these 4 months just to verify everything is OK. I saw your comment in somewhere about a crankcase AD and how you had to trash yours. i am not finding that anywhere. Can you point me in the right direction? are you flying? Thanks!!
So... I haven’t heard anything back from you. It’s ok to say no and you aren’t interested in the prop. It would be nice to know one way or the other
Jon
you haven't posted for a while. Are you ok ?
You always have good contributions to make
Peter
Collin;

I have looked at the photos you posted with your Patrol that you are selling. I am not trying to build an award winner. But your aircraft sets a standard for me to try to shoot for. Great Job! BTW, I think the price is an excellent value. I don't want to buy it because I am enjoying build so much....I hope my build will turn out as nice as yours.
Congrats, mine is a scratch build and I am 1178, Going for eight years in August. yours is looking great.
swpilot3
swpilot3
Cool!! I bought the plans to keep me motivated while I saved for the kit. Took a while!

When do you anticipate being done with yours?
Spinning....Brooks Cone here regarding your request for the Patrol Hardware list in excel format. I can send it to you you via email. bcone1964@gmail.com

Brooks
Initial tubing was 800. had to spend a couple hundred more that were out of stock at time
aluminum was around 3K
scrounged a sack full of pulleys free
bought a partial used tailwheel for 250, had to remachine part if it ... free
set up my own corporation for $100, bought all the fabric and dope wholesale for about 2500
guy gave me a set of nice like-new seats
did some horse-trading for the landing-gear
bought a 0-time O320 for 8K from a friend of a guy I contacted through barnstormers. add 500 for a yellowtage carbureor and two rebuilt bendix mags

Will still need prop (a guy offered to sell me a wood prop for 500), windshield & windows, some bolts,nuts,nut-plates,etc
I've been building on my Patrol for about 8 years, so started out when things were a little less expensive
I had thought I could do it for 15, I will go over, but seriously doubt it will cost me 20
Greetings: I was entertained by your posting. I am scratch-building a Patrol up north, near Superior. Drove thru your fair-city on Saturday. I live in the house in which my father was born. My great-grandfather's brother owned a small farm on the 40 acres to the east of our property. He was trained as a goldsmith in Finland and spent weekdays working in Duluth,MN while his wife ran the farm. He was a jack-of-all-trades, had a shop in his basement that was more like an alchemy lab. During my childhood years great-uncle Alfred was my idol. Among other things, he spend his last years building a pipe-organ. A third-floor room of his house had the floor covered with hand-made organ-pipes. He died during a blizzard when I was about 10 years old with his unfinished pipe-organ occupying the 3rd floor.

I have inherited his legacy; my family refers to my Patrol project as "The Pipe Organ" :(

Good luck on your Patrol

RBerglund
spinningwrench
spinningwrench
Interesting story, you should get that organ playing
Hi Jared:
I have written some text and taken a series of pictures for you if you want to put it in one of the beartracks issues. The pics may be too many Kb for you to use but I dont think I have anything that can shrink them. Also I probably have more pics than you have room for--
so i guess you could just pick the ones you like or whichever ones seem relevant.
There could be too much text too - so feel free to edit as needed to fit your purposes.
I spell checked it- so that should be ok unless I missed something. (possible)
For me- It would be easiest for me to send the text and pics to you in a regular e-mail.
If you want to send me an e-mail I can reply with the stuff in the reply.
Thanks,
Tim Bandy
Orlando fl.
Hi, I am Gerhard Rieger, If you want you can look on my fb page, there are many photo's there of how I did my header tank, it holds 2,2 US gal and fits under the floor. Hope you find a way that will work fir you!
Battson, Donna and I have been looking at ways to improve cooling in our Patrols. I see you have some louvers in your lower cowling. We were considering adding those but we did not know how effective they would be. How did they improve your cht's. Thanks Dennis
Battson
Battson
Hi Dennis,

The picture you are looking at is from Mike Alraldi's plane, which is since moved to Canada. Check with Mark Goldberg, he will know.
Hi, you asked me about a mgl v16 radio. They are available now in sa, did you get one over there

gerhard rieger
whee
whee
Thanks Gerhard. The became available in Europe about a month ago and the dealer there was willing to sell us one. Thanks for being willing to help.
Jon
Hello Steve;

I live in Chelsea. Visitors are welcome. Grand Ledge, eh? I grew up in Mason....worked at Mason Jewett in high school....early 1980's. ​​​​​I think there is a good EAA chapter there. Livingston Co....ever run into a guy named Greg Scott there? I think he likes hanging out at an EAA chapter there.

I am building my Patrol from a quick build kit at my home and am not currently flying anything recreational. Get your CFI, then put it to some use. Because I am building at home and not currently flying recreational, I fell a bit isolated and wish I was more connected to the GA world around here. Formerly I was flying recreational at a glider club and have considered rejoining, but am having too much fun building. When its done, its ok if the airplane sits while I get recurrent in GA tailwheel aircraft.

Brooks Cone
734-476-0398 text or call.
bcone1964@gmail.com

Steve Wrote
Where are you at? I'm in Grand Ledge (West side of Lansing) and fly out of Livingston County Airport in Howell (KOZW).
I'm planning on building a 4-place BH "B" model, hopefully I can get started this year. Mama bear won't let me buy plans until I have my CFI certificate in hand. :( She knows I'll spend all of my time working on the BH and neglect studying. Sometimes it feels like the CFI is torture to get. Haha! Always training. Always training. Always. Training.
Maybe we'll run into each other one of these days.
Take care,
Steve
Metalman is George Barrett a blacksmith and metalworker by trade for the past 38 years, specializing in architectural blacksmithing. I have plans to build the Bearhawk 4 place model B. I am currently clearing a corner in my shop to start the rib forms and forming process.
Hello Mikeno, you mentioned in an old post about ground planes that you used fine copper mesh in your RANS. Was this something that is available in hobby stores for art and craft?
I'm not a builder, only because I don't have the time. I have restored cars and have the mechanical ability to build. I have a fully functioning wood working shop and novice welding equipment. Maybe I will build when I retire.

I'm an 800+ hour pilot with 100 hours tail time. All tail flying was in the Jackson Hole, WY area where I was living at the time.

Currently I am working on the purchase a Bearhawk 4-Place 260HP.
I had the good fortune of meeting Jared Yates outside of Hickory, NC and spending some time looking over his Bearhawk 4-Place. Jared took me up and I really enjoyed the plane! He is a wealth of Bearhawk and aviation information! Looking forward to more activity here, and in the air!
Certainly.

I am on business travel now but will be back in town on 16MAR. We can connect then. I am currently performing the condition inspection so it would be a good time to see the details.

Brad
G
Gord Rose
Thank you! I will put March 16th on my calendar and will send you a reminder a few days before so we can firm up a date to visit.. Gord.
G
Gord Rose
Hi Brad. This is just a reminder about meeting to see the Bearhawk at your convenience. Gord. Rose. Grose@gvrose.com
Hi schu. I am interested in getting the airfoil strips for a 4 place. How do I paypal you?

My address is

Rick Waddell
4950 Lee Hill
Boulder, CO 80302

Email is rwaddell@dianaw.com

Thanks
Hi Mark
I capped the ends and threaded for a #6 screw.
Put tube seal inside.
I use the Par-Al-Ketone on all final bolt/fastener installations.

Gavin
His name is Danny Sorensen. My number is 8017076136 give me a call or text tomorrow and I’ll get his info.
Good morning Mr. Whee. Thanks for offering to help Jonathan. Purpose of this message is to let you know that the adapter and round spring can be safely used on your plane with only a slight reinforcement of the tailpost. Bob has examined the issue pretty thoroughly, and after a couple gyrations his fix is easy to do. If you are interested in using those parts - contact me via email. I do not check these private messages very often. Take care. Mark
whee
whee
Thanks Mark. We've talked and the tail post reinforcement has been done.
I will take it Rod. How do you want to transfer the funds? Personal Check? Pay Pal?

Brooks Cone
Personal e-mail is bcone1964@gmail.com
(my e-mail that PayPal uses is bcone1381@aol.com)
rodsmith
rodsmith
Paypal is fine, rodsmith52@yahoo.com is the email to use. Thank you!
I saw the clamping strip and I included that item in my setup.

I made the hole so small that I have an inspection plate behind the light. The entire assembly is installed through the inspection plate.
I would like to see a Bearhawk 4 place in person before i order the kit, if anyone is willing to show me their plane i would greatly appreciate it, location south Florida.
I live in Heber and am just finishing a Bearhawk 4 place. My email address is N8641K@hotmail.com. Maybe I can be of some assistance.

Terry
muleyman78
muleyman78
Yeah that would be great!! my number is 8017076136. Shoot me a text and maybe I can call and pick your brain?
Sorry for not getting back to you sooner. I don't check my private messages very often. I am building a patrol. If you have any further questions please email me at bwelfred@rogers.com
Ed Welfred
My approach to the aileron pulley mount. Since it isn't exactly per the plans, I didn't want to post it on the main site.
Marcus, Thanks for bringing up the issue of control surface CG and its relationship to Flutter. Bergy had me concerned a bit last night before I went to bed.

Brooks
marcusofcotton
marcusofcotton
I'm still wondering if he was just looking to stir the pot or people's thoughts... Hopefully there will be some good discussion at our next EAA chapter mtg.
Hi Rollie,
I tried this # but it wont go through. Says My call cant be completed. If you dont mind, please call me, 306-740-8803, thank you
Dave

Looking pretty good!

I see you made your doublers similar to mind and took my advice about not welding perpendicular to the weld path.

I then filled that gap with JB weld after sandblasting but prior to painting to both smooth the joint and to seal out water.

If I was doing it again, I probably would have tapered the top edge of the doublers to a point instead of cutting them straight across and I would have then welded them all the way around.

But it truly is looking good.

What's up next?
D
davzLSA
HI Brad, You know I was thinking of making the doublers tapered on one end like you were saying but I was thinking that I would be welding across the load path. So what you are saying is that if the weld is not perpendicular to the load path its OK to weld across the weld path? I'm looking forward to getting the main wheels on soon but I know that is going to be barrel of monkeys so I'm just doing one thing at a time and trying not to think too far ahead because if I do I get heart burn.
Bill;

I just read your post about Props on a Husky. What prop you installed on your Patrol?
Bdflies
Bdflies
Hello Brooks!

A very good friend (the guy who went through the Husky's, actually) is building a Backcountry Super Cub. He's installing an IO-375 on it. He had a nice 2 blade MT for that build. I had a 76" Hartzell that was pulled from my Husky, several years back, to eliminate recurring AD inspections. I sent the Hartzell to a prop shop, for overhaul and replace the hub, intending to use it on the Patrol. Owner of the prop shop called to tell me that my hub was NOT subject to the AD and that the prop was in great shape. It would be back to me quickly.
At this point, I have a fresh overhaulled 76" Hartzell and Ron has a fresh overhaulled 80" MT. A bit of research suggested that the stroker engines (IO-375) don't do well with light weight composite props. A call to the engine builder to discuss prop selection, had him stating clearly that he'd rther see the Hartzell on the engine, instead of the MT. Ron asked if I'd be willing to swap my Hartzell for his (gorgeous!) MT. Well, the MT is lighter, it's beautiful and Ron is the most generous guy I know. So we swapped.
It took a while to answer your question, didn't it? My Patrol has a really nice 2 blade MT propellor. It pulls strong and is smooth as silk. I would have been perfectly happy with the Hartzell and I'm certain that it would perform equally.
We have a really great brotherhood of fliers and builders around here. Sometimes a part swap or just an outright donation of a piece is just what's needed to help a brother get his plane further along. Kind of like sisters swapping shoes, to complete an outfit.
On a whole different subject, do you know Art Soileau? He stopped by my hangar, after seeing me land. He lives about a mile from me. Art retired from FedEx a few years back. He was flying 777's when he retired. I'm sure you guys are a very large group, but I figured there might be a chance you might know him.
Great hearing from you Brooks!

Bill
Comet aviation are the agents ( cometaviationsupplies.co.za) look there and you will see the cost, let me know once you got the quote and I will see how I can help you.
Hi Gary,
This is a great way in shaving quite a few hundred hours of labor...congrats for your purchase.
You mentioned that you didn’t purchase the floats. Do you know if the owner is looking to sell them? I may be interested, depending on the condition and price.
Would you be able to share the seller’s contact email?

Thanks, Mike
Thanks Mike, hope to fly along on one of your trips one day. Take Care Jerry
Изготовление сварных металлоконструкций
ZZZ, I'm PM'ing you in case you don't want to answer publicly. (And feel free to tell me to buzz off, if you don't want to talk about it yet.)

Are you using the "new" System 32 version, or an older version of the FlyEFI system? Their website reads like the System 32 is "coming soon to a theater near you..."

I have to admit that I haven't seen this one before. Can you explain (in general terms) what the fuel system design looks like for this? I have to admit that I'm fascinated by the FADEC-type systems. I would just have to be sure I fully understand it before I could consider flying behind it.

Either way, thanks!
Dave

Good speaking with you earlier.

Out of curiosity, how long are the tail wires you purchased from Mark? Curious how they compare to the Univair wires.

Attached are a couple photos related to our discussion. Note the lower "tab end" of the strut I would do differently. I would lengthen the doublers and taper them to a point on the top end. I didn't want to weld across the load path so I actually filled the upper area with JB Weld to seal it before I painted.
D
davzLSA
Hi Brad Thanks for the pics. As most pics do they lead to some questions for clarification. On the end of the strut at the front horizontal stab spar it looks like you welded a tube into the end of the strut then tapped it to match the threads on the part that is bolted to the front spar? If im wrong please straighten me out. As for the part bolted to the front spar is that just a piece of plain rod that you heated and flattened and cut threads on to fit inside the tube you welded in to the end of the strut? Next question, what size rod did you use and what size tube did you use? What was the wall thickness of the tube?

Thanks,
David Swann
I’m interested in the kit. Is it the bravo or original rib design?
S
Stan
T.J, mi kit is the original rib design.
S
Stan
T.J, my kit is still available if your interested.
Gerald.

I'm interested in the rib attach angles.. the timing is perfect for me. I'm building a scratch built 4P Bravo in Montana... S/n 1464B. I assume the rib attach angles are the same Patrol to 4P.

If you still have 'em, shoot me an email please: skreikem@gmail.com. I can paypal over the postage...

Thanks!
-Spencer Kreikemeier
the plate is on both sides of the splice, it is a bit of an over kill, but strong. I spoke to Bob and he was ok with it.
Please keep this to yourself. I bought materials and could not get anywhere with Aircraft Spruce for quotes back in the day. They now have the Cdn office which has made it better. I talked to them about a quote one day and they wondered why I was not ordering from them. I told them that others quotes to my inquiries & gave me discounts so ACS was not competitive. They set me up as a dealer because they know as a builder that there is a lot of shopping. Ask ACS if they will set you up as a dealer so that you can get the discounts. It is about 15% for normal materials and less for electroncs because there is not much mark up. I still went out for quotes on our Dynon and Wicks won that after years of going with ACS. If there are other builders in the circle then they can buy under your number. The local flying club bought all their materials under my number & a couple club members have included their needs in with our orders. If ACS will give you a dealer number then it saves shopping around. Being in the GTA you have so many opportunities for aluminum & steel. I live an hour from the border so I had the order shipped to a warehous and went over to pick it up. Shiping on the US side is cheap. Our dollar was 10% over par which helped a lot back then.

On the credit cards. All the vendor pricing is fattened to compensate for the %'s that the cards take for the transactions. Premium cards take more for the transactions. I had Wicks assemble the order with my credit card & they released the shipment when the bank money order arrived.

My life was engineering for a papermill and we always went out for quotes on materials & services. Purchasing negotiated for us where I learned a lot. The process has to be ethical and no giving of the numbers from one vendor to another so they can price match. If one does that the vendors will quit working with a person. Shopping around will get you the best prices and not always from the same source.

I think the aluminum cost about $6600 after discounts. At 15% that is about a $1000. The steel was about $4k so at 20% discount that was about an $800. I did material take offs for all the hardware, pulleys etc and went for quotes. I think that was $2800 after a 20% discount for another $600. This was around $2000 in savings. It is one way of stretching a dollar.

Good luck with your build.
Glenn
W
way_up_north
I'm on the road so I'm finger typing this huge thankyou...i really appreciate your information.. have nice night
Congratulations on your success! Huge Inspiration for the rest of us here to pick up those snips and chip away...
Thanks, loved the fifteen year experience, and it's a great design. Natural float plane, its pitchy, but you get used to it.
Bdflies
Bdflies
Ah, you're a builder for sure. The real appeal is the building process. The plane, at the end, is a bonus!
Funny that you mentioned the Bearhawk being 'pitchy'. A close friend built a very early quick build 4 place. I got to fly it a good bit. Anyone watching my first few landings must have been very amused. I fought pitch oscillations for several landings. As you said; you get used to the sensitivity. When I mentioned the pitch sensitivity to Mark, he (of course) claimed no knowledge of pitch sensitivity. He added, however, that the airfoil shaped wood adders did eliminate the issue. The new Model B comes with airfoil shaped ribs, on the tail surfaces.
I haven't flown a 4 place with the airfoil shaped ribs, but I can say that the Patrol exhibits no such pitch sensitivity.

Bill
Well I have thought of the rebuild, but, just turned 70 and man I feel like I am running out of time and steam. Besides I have a new R66 and a C-206 amphib. Plus super cub so motivation is low. They are Clamars 2500 and gross is 2700 lbs. I haven't pushed the gross weight but 2700 lbs is no problem. I have a video of a TO at gross but not sure how to send it. Love the floats and if you ever screw up it's nice to know they can land gear down without you swimming!
The picture of C FZAC at Oshkosh 2011 on amphibious float is mine. It has a IO520 engine and performed very well, have videos. Cruise speed was 135 mph and lovely plane. Fifteen years of work and the very first night it was outside a microburst got it. Haven't got the energy to rebuild, maybe you know someone?
mike sn463
James are you from Nowra ?
James
James
Yeah Peter - I am, but originally from Gippsland, via Nth Queensland.

Sorry for the late reply, but I only just realised how to access private messages. I'm a bit slow sometimes.

James
I used my master pattern to create the form block with a router pattern bit. The backer for the form block doesn't have to be accurate but the form blocks themselves should be since they are what sets the shape of the wing. IF your blanks are a bit off it doesn't really matter much since the edges are all folded over anyways, but the form block is the important one for getting the shape correct.
Qboiler
Qboiler
That makes sense too me. Thanks.
Dave

If things seem to fit better when you remove the extra spacer, I would recommend reworking the upper longerons again. The discontinuity and weld as seen in the photos is going to show through the fabric in an area that is very visible.

I would recommend using the "SPLICING TUBING BY INNER-SLEEVE METHOD" as shown in AC43.13( (Figure 4-37 in my version) as that should let you do the rework with the best chance of having it work out further down the line. Put the rosette welds where the fabric won't be touching and orient the diagonal cut so that the shortest area(the tip of the tongue if you will) is where the fabric will be touching and sand that small weld bit smooth.. That way it will disappear once the fabric is on.

I would probably cut the longerons a bit ahead of where the small diagonals are coming down from the tail post(and remove the small diagonals completely from the tail post as well) as that will give you a clean ID to slide the inner sleeve into.. Then make your splices and get everything welded and then put in a new set of diagonals.

I understand your reluctance to cut things apart yet again(been there myself a few times) but a days worth of work now will mean you won't have to explain the cosmetics for the life of the plane.

Good luck!

Brad
D
davzLSA
HI Brad,
Thanks for the advise. I did'nt think about the fact that the weld would show through the fabric at that point. If im going to do it now is the time before I get the horizontal stab on. Thanks for saving my from a regret later on.
BTAZ
BTAZ
Dave

no problem!

Feel free to ping me if you need any more clarification on things.

Brad
I thought about the 2 degree offset we discussed and the need for it now makes sense. Ultimately, you need to have the horizontal stabilizer set for a 2 degree slope(as shown on the three view plans) so the tab needs to have a 2 degree offset relative to the longeron to get the elevator hinge tube set properly.
Greetings! Brooks Cone here, Patrol builder in SE Michigan.

I read your post about Electrical System Design....you wrote "I used an aero electric visio stencil to make my drawing look like the book."

Could you give me more details about how to get that tool? I am drawing mine on paper, and desire improvement. Yours looked great!
schu
schu
I'll post to the thread so that everybody can see it.
Built and flew SN478 for three years severely damaged in a wind storm last year. First night out of a hangar. Fifteen year project over 300 invested willing to part it out or sell. Engine IO 520, floats Clamar 2500 amphibious little damage wings damaged, fuselage minor damage. Flew 140 mph on floats. Great plane just running out of time. Mike Carriere. SN478
Also. I threaded big lag-bolts up into the bottom of each leg such that the bottom of each leg was an inch or so off the floor. I found that my garage floor heaved up/down considerably during different seasons of the year. If you use your table for lofting your fuselage you will need to check it for level frequently, and simply twisting the lag-bolts made leveling quite easy
H
hausburn
It works great, my floor is also extremely out of level.
I wish somebody had explained to me right after I built my spar-table that the nature of the covering is very important. What turned out best for me (learned after what seemed like hours of sweeping and vacuuming of chips and buffing of scratches) is some salvaged carpeting. And I tried a variety before I found some stuff that worked well. I recommend cut-pile carpeting only, medium length with no twist. The pile should stand up without matting down easily, yet be easy to vacuum
Rick sorry for taking so long to get back to you. We've had a little bad weather here in the Baytown, TX area. I sold my kit I think it was in May. I didn't know it was still floating around on the web, thought I had removed all the postings.
CJ
Using the TCDS data you provided, I tried a few different engine positions and I am still of the opinion that I will be required to move my O-320 forward about 5 inches
BTAZ
BTAZ
It looks like you are on the right track.

Again, I don't know for certain whether the TCDS that I posted are the latest.

I'm familiar with what you are trying to do as I went through a similar exercise when I was thinking about putting an 0-320 on my LSA in place of the 0-200.

Good luck!

Brad
BTAZ
BTAZ
As I look at your numbers, I'm not sure you put the prop in the right spot.

On the known configuration, the prop is forward of the flange so the moment arm would be greater than 56".....( I would guess 59" or so.

Same for the 0-320; the prop CG will be in front of the flange.
Brooks Cone here...Ben, I live in Chelsea, Michigan which is about 20 miles west of Ann Arbor on I94. My cell phone is 734-476-0398. Call or text any time.

I am building a Patrol, and would love to show you what I have, but My September is pretty crazy after Labor Day. October I think will be more open. I am having a builder put up a workshop and they broke ground last week. Right now the build is taking place in one half of a two car garage. Lots of parts down in the basement, with the fuselage and wings in the garage. Things will be a bit more organized I think by thanksgiving. But I would be happy to have you up to check things out anytime where our schedules jive.

Brooks
F
f7ben
Hi Brooks , maybe later in the fall would be a good time to take a ride up. You arent too far from me , maybe an hour or so. I would love to see your plane and the progress you've made. Sounds like it will be nice for you to have a workshop for the plane to reside in. You can never have enough garage space. I'll touch base with you in a few months and we'll see what works for you then.

Thanks
Hello boys I would like to know if the performance mentioned by BOB
With 260hp and a speed of 155-160 mph is possible is feasible before investing several thousand dollars or c of the dream. I would like to know who performs the performance and in what condition. thank you
Battson
Battson
Yeah it's possible at sea level (IAS) by running the power up at about 75%, easier with the Bravo model.
You can cruise at that speed (TAS) at mid and high altitudes very easily, running about 65% power and even running lean of peak (only burning about 10 gal /hr).
Hi, I am finally getting the ball rolling on my Patrol. I have a great many of the hand tools already but the larger tools such as a router I am buying. What would be a good horse power rating for cutting the aluminum?
I remember watching your tooling video and hearing you say something about the sheet metal brake borrowed from the EAA, was that your local chapter that loaned that to you? Your video work has been a great hep, thank you.
DesertBearhawk
DesertBearhawk
Yes my local chapter has a member that had one and I was loaned it for about 18 months.
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