davzLSA

My approach to the aileron pulley mount. Since it isn't exactly per the plans, I didn't want to post it on the main site.

Dave

Looking pretty good!

I see you made your doublers similar to mind and took my advice about not welding perpendicular to the weld path.

I then filled that gap with JB weld after sandblasting but prior to painting to both smooth the joint and to seal out water.

If I was doing it again, I probably would have tapered the top edge of the doublers to a point instead of cutting them straight across and I would have then welded them all the way around.

But it truly is looking good.

What's up next?

Dave

Good speaking with you earlier.

Out of curiosity, how long are the tail wires you purchased from Mark? Curious how they compare to the Univair wires.

Attached are a couple photos related to our discussion. Note the lower "tab end" of the strut I would do differently. I would lengthen the doublers and taper them to a point on the top end. I didn't want to weld across the load path so I actually filled the upper area with JB Weld to seal it before I painted.

Dave

If things seem to fit better when you remove the extra spacer, I would recommend reworking the upper longerons again. The discontinuity and weld as seen in the photos is going to show through the fabric in an area that is very visible.

I would recommend using the "SPLICING TUBING BY INNER-SLEEVE METHOD" as shown in AC43.13( (Figure 4-37 in my version) as that should let you do the rework with the best chance of having it work out further down the line. Put the rosette welds where the fabric won't be touching and orient the diagonal cut so that the shortest area(the tip of the tongue if you will) is where the fabric will be touching and sand that small weld bit smooth.. That way it will disappear once the fabric is on.

I would probably cut the longerons a bit ahead of where the small diagonals are coming down from the tail post(and remove the small diagonals completely from the tail post as well) as that will give you a clean ID to slide the inner sleeve into.. Then make your splices and get everything welded and then put in a new set of diagonals.

I understand your reluctance to cut things apart yet again(been there myself a few times) but a days worth of work now will mean you won't have to explain the cosmetics for the life of the plane.

Good luck!

Brad

I thought about the 2 degree offset we discussed and the need for it now makes sense. Ultimately, you need to have the horizontal stabilizer set for a 2 degree slope(as shown on the three view plans) so the tab needs to have a 2 degree offset relative to the longeron to get the elevator hinge tube set properly.

My name is David Swann I live in McCalla Alabama, I have a set of LSA plans and recently ordered a tubing kit from Mark. I am going to use a corvair engine and it is mostly built. Still waiting on heads, they are still in the machine shop. I am here to get help building my LSA and hope to be able to help others as I build my plane.