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All you need to make a manometer is enough clear tubing to reach from the measurement area to the cabin, a little cardboard, some zip ties, etc. If you don’t have access to this article let me know and I’ll send you a pdf: https://bearhawk.tips/1813

Walter, for high CHTs, I would start by measuring the air pressure difference between the top and bottom of the engine. You can do this with a homemade manometer, which is just a single piece of clear tube with a loop and some measurement marks. If you have less than around 5 inches of water of...

Awesome, is that 110 knots indicated?

The electric trim changes the discussion and I would definitely focus there for resolving the pitch issue. I'm not sure there have been published trim tab travel specs? With the elevator in trail with the horizontal stab, my takeoff trim position is with the tab also in trail with the elevator...

You might try the facet pumps that are cylindrical-shaped instead of the cubes, since they stopped making the cube that we need.

On mine I think I used stainless clevis pins there instead of cad plated but I suppose at some point you have to change over to regular steel. Can you invert the heads of the clevis pins to make the cotter pins on the opposite side from where they are currently? Also, once you have the elevator...

Hi Mark, lots of things here. First, it's great to hear that you are getting some hours in your plane, and we'd always love to hear more! I will share some opinions but I would definitely recommend you have a chat with Bob as well. He is extremely knowledgeable about all of this, and also the...

An interesting option that @huntaero did was to leave the foam in the tip. There was a weight penalty but a strength advantage, and he thought it was worth keeping the foam in.

It can be made out of composites as well.

The Bob/Virgil thing is an ongoing problem which will hopefully have some resolution one day. Meanwhile, I would prioritize as follows: If you are building from a kit, ask your technical questions of Virgil and his resources (his wing manual, his website, him, Peter, etc). If you are building...

I was thinking that door detail was probably not on the plans, though I don't have a set to check. Usually that would be Beartracks or the boom which was consolidated from the Beartracks.

Here are more details: https://www.bearhawkaircraftplans.com/fly-in/ It would be great to see you there Brooks. My family and I plan to be there. If you haven't found a new home for your flooring by then and can fit it in your plane, bring it along please! I was talking with Bob on the phone...

I have to notice the circuitous path. A very good 4-seat design was modified to create a very good 2-seat design. Why would you want to add two more seats to the very capable 2-seater to create a very marginal 4-seater?

The only way any manual gets better is for your feedback to make it back to the folks managing the resource. Virgil does visit here from time to time but I would send him a note with any problems that you find as well.

The excel file attachment problem is not an intentional policy. I think I have adjusted it just now, please try again. If it doesn't work, please let me know.

For steel, just sand blast the parts and then follow the paint directions. For ep-420, wipe the parts with c2210 and spray. Don't wait more than a few hours between blasting and painting. I haven't heard of anyone corrosion proofing the inside of the struts but I'm sure there must be ways.

I would talk with Bob before you remove the rivets. It may be important or it may not be. He may have worked out something specific for the factory a long time ago. Or it may be that they built them wrong. But it's worth checking.

Good to hear from you Isa, I hope all is well at your place and that you are finding some time to work on your plane! The Bearhawk gear alignment is measured at a specific gear spread, and at that spread it has toe-in, but the alignment changes depending on the gear spread. So it's even more...

Here’s how I would do it. You are missing some fittings. I would use steel fittings, and seal the pipe threads with Loctite 565 or whatever sealant you prefer instead. No goo on the 37 degree flares which will be male on the fitting and female on your firesleeved hoses. If you are not going to...

Many folks who have an engine driven pump also have an electric boost pump, in case the engine driven pump fails in such a way that it would otherwise block the flow. When I had that configuration, I put the fuel flow sensor and the boost pump in the area described above. Is this an injected...