Mouse door question

[svyolo]

I am finishing up the kit supplied 4 place doors. Mostly just a bit more painting. I need to make up the little mouse doors for the lower doors. Does air pressure when flying tend to make them bend inward, suck towards the outside?

[Utah-Jay]

I am working on doors as well, just started so interested.

There are 4 pins that came in my hardware package that seem like they should hold the door (Wicks PN MS20392-2C67), is this the correct pin? There is a head on it as you would expect that does not allow it to slide all the way in.

Not Trying to hijack

[svyolo]

Pins are used in a few places, the upper doors and the trim tabs. Lots of things use bolts as pins, but that is the only place I can think of that use the CAD plated steel pins.

[jaredyates]

I seem to recall needing to chuck up a clevis pin in a drill and file a little off of the head to get it to work, on occasion.

[Utah-Jay]

Thanks jaredyates I just ground down a flat spot on one side of the head and all was good.

[svyolo]

The upper door hinges are a tight fit for the head. I haven't ground it off because it works, but is a slight PITA to remove and install.

[svyolo]

I would also give a shout out to Bob's doors, door latches, and the factory fabrication. The doors and door latches are brilliant in functionality and simplicity, and built accurately by the factory, at least on my kit. The only downside is documentation. After you build them you find little bits that interfere and require slight material removal. Still, I like them. I waited till the end to make the doors as I wasn't sure if I wanted stock doors or sea plane doors. I built the stock ones as I already bought them. In the end, I might end up with both. Stock in hot weather, sea plane doors in colder weather. Same hinges.

[svyolo]

With no other documentation I fab-ed the mouse doors this morning. It seemed it would fit better if it were flush with the lower door skin, rather than overlapping the door skin on the inboard side. Closing the door keeps it from moving inboard, broke doublers overlapping the doorskin on the inner surface keep it from bowing outboard. Hopefully it works OK.

My upper front doors are done, pretty much bone stock, and weigh about 5.7 pounds each. The lowers still need exterior paint, but will be around 5 pounds, with 2/3 of the surface from .080 Lexan.

There is a lot of detail work done by the factory for all the steel parts to fit correctly, and was all done perfectly.

MOUSE1.jpgMOUSE2.jpgMOUSE3.jpg

[Utah-Jay]

Great Stuff svyolo as I’m am in my first few days of working on the doors and contemplating lower door options