Split Nose Bowl

[H. Ivan Haecker]

On my Patrol, I was wondering what others have done to join their nose bowl halves (Bob B. supplied) behind the spinner area. I can get one screw on each side on the flange just outboard of the spinner, but that seems inadequate to hold the halves in this area? I would hate to put screws behind the spinner since the prop would have to come off if one wanted to remove the whole cowling. Any ideas?

Ivan Haecker #150 QB

[jaredyates]

As I understand it Bob's Patrol and 4-Place nose bowls are the same. I'm using Mark's nose bowl, which is a little different, but I have one screw on each side of the spinner and three screws outboard of the big intakes. So far that has been holding up.

[Battson]

I did the same - no problems whatsoever (almost 500hrs later)

[Bcone1381]

Check out July 1999 issue of Beartracks. An article in it describes Bob using four joining plates that are fit inside the cowling. The Joining Plates are .050 5052H32 Aluminum epoxied and riveted to the lower half. 8-32 nutplates are used in the upper half of the joining plate to receive the SS screws that secure the upper half to the lower half.


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[H. Ivan Haecker]

I don't think I quite understand what others have said and what the drawing implies. My 13" spinner will cover the flat area inboard of the air inlets. See attached picture. The only place available to put a screw inboard of the air inlets is either behind the spinner or on the small flange as shown by the arrow in the photo. Is the flange area the place implied to put a screw?

[Bdflies]

Here's what I came up with. I made a steel plate, formed to fit the area behind the spinner flange location. Oh heck... I'll never be able to describe it. See pics below:

The steel backplate will remain on the lower cowl when the top halve is removed, because the lowest screw, which only penetrates the lower half, won't be removed. This keeps the plate in place, for easy reassembly. I'm using a NAS1096-2-8 screw, to go through the backplate, to the front nutplate, so I can get a socket/ratchet on it, for installation and removal. There's not a lot of room, between the nosebowl and the ring gear, but there's enough. If the pics and my explanation don't quite clarify, please ask for more.
I know there's a bit more cosmetic work, before final paint, so don't look too hard at the rough edges...

Bill

[H. Ivan Haecker]

Great! Just what I was looking for. Thanks.

Ivan Haecker Patrol 150 QB

[Mark Moyle]

I had bought a carbon concepts split nose bowl for the pacer... Same problem...couldn't get to the screws behind the spinner backing plate... Couldn't use the nose bowl inlet flange...didn't exist. My only option...had I gone with that nose bowl was to drill holes through the backing plate to access the screws. Still required pulling the spinner...but not the prop. Didn't use the nose bowl...would required making another new upper and lower cowl to make it fit...


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[Zzz]

Here's what I came up with. I made a steel plate, formed to fit the area behind the spinner flange location. Oh heck... I'll never be able to describe it. See pics below:

The steel backplate will remain on the lower cowl when the top halve is removed, because the lowest screw, which only penetrates the lower half, won't be removed. This keeps the plate in place, for easy reassembly. I'm using a NAS1096-2-8 screw, to go through the backplate, to the front nutplate, so I can get a socket/ratchet on it, for installation and removal. There's not a lot of room, between the nosebowl and the ring gear, but there's enough. If the pics and my explanation don't quite clarify, please ask for more.
I know there's a bit more cosmetic work, before final paint, so don't look too hard at the rough edges...

Bill

Great solution, thanks.

[Bdflies]

Isn't it great that we can share ideas!

Bill