Securing Fairlead Ring

[Archer39J]

It has become apparent I need to add some fairleads to my fuselage. Two by the aft rear seat studs and one to relocate the trim fairlead at STA M. I'm not at all set up for any kind of welding and I would rather not like to start on my fuselage, but I can't think of any other secure way of attaching them. Perhaps brazing? I don't know, any suggestions?

[Archer39J]

For more info, this is a result of my design for the skylight and my wanting to keep the mechanical trim. I can move the back stringers down more and intersect the skylight curve further aft if I reposition that fairlead from outside the fuse to inside (basically just moving it down). Else, to get the skylight where I want it the fabric will have to slope up from the aft end of the skylight to clear the trim fairlead.

Running string this looks like it will work well with an additional fairlead in my skylight crossbar, and looking at how others have stitched the headliner up at STA M it appears there is still room for a fairlead there. I figured if I'm redoing the trim fairlead I might as well do the rudder ones while I'm at it. I'm not afraid to tack some fairleads in place, but I'm wondering if there are other options available that don't require my borrowing equipment and taking the time to learn a new skill I'll use just for these.

[Bcone1381]

I'm not afraid to tack some fairleads in place, but I'm wondering if there are other options available that don't require my borrowing equipment and taking the time to learn a new skill I'll use just for these.

The first option I can think of that will get all your wishes accomplished without borrowing and learning a new skill is to hire the job out to a professional. If you get everything ready, all the parts fabricated, and set up so its ready to go, I would think a professional welder is going to get things done quickly and then you are off to the races again.

IF you barrow a welding setup, and have a torch that is compatible to thin walled steel tubing, and teach yourself to use it safely, and can spend 8-12 hours practicing on .028 steel coupons, then one may still feel a bit of anxiety first applying the torch to his fuselage. Most setups are made for welding 1/8 - 1/4" thick steel I think. Our small stuff is not as widely used.

[Ray Strickland]

You can use two tubing clamps: one one attached the adjacent tubing and one to hold the fair lead.

[Archer39J]

Intriguing, I've not seen this done before. It's strong enough?

[Archer39J]

The first option I can think of that will get all your wishes accomplished without borrowing and learning a new skill is to hire the job out to a professional. If you get everything ready, all the parts fabricated, and set up so its ready to go, I would think a professional welder is going to get things done quickly and then you are off to the races again.

IF you barrow a welding setup, and have a torch that is compatible to thin walled steel tubing, and teach yourself to use it safely, and can spend 8-12 hours practicing on .028 steel coupons, then one may still feel a bit of anxiety first applying the torch to his fuselage. Most setups are made for welding 1/8 - 1/4" thick steel I think. Our small stuff is not as widely used.

What a pain.. Now I'm definitely concerned about ruining my fuselage trying to tack on a little loop, even farming it out, that'd be just my luck lol. Thanks for the reply.

[Ray Strickland]

I can’t imagine it not being strong enough for a trim cable. If you have reservations re a rudder cable, weld up a standard fair lead holder to a split tube to nest against the fuse longeron, securing the splint tube to the longeron with two clamps, one on either side of the split tube. That should do it.

[James]

Yeah, I'd say that Ray's method would be fine

1) use stainless steel p-clamps, not aluminium
2) The one that goes around the fuselage tube, discard the cushion, choose a size that's just smidge too small for the diameter of the tube. Fill up the inner surface with airframe structural adhesive, and bond it to the tube as you install the assembly.
I did this to place two more monadalocks for my floor screws where there were no welded tabs. Even after pushing down on the P-clamp unsupported to drive the screw in, it hasn't cracked away yet.

James

[jaredyates]

Is there an EAA chapter in your area? Odds are good you can find some leads on good welders there. "Welding" is like "painting" in that it is a broad term to describe too many skill sets. You wouldn't want to hire a house painter to paint your car or portrait, and you wouldn't want most welders near your fuselage.

[Archer39J]

Is there an EAA chapter in your area? Odds are good you can find some leads on good welders there. "Welding" is like "painting" in that it is a broad term to describe too many skill sets. You wouldn't want to hire a house painter to paint your car or portrait, and you wouldn't want most welders near your fuselage.

Yeah that's a good point. I have a local chapter that meets every month, I'll ask around when I go next.

[Archer39J]

So here's a possibility: It sure looks like if I properly locate the fairlead in my skylight crossbar I have a straight shot all the way back to the aft trim fairlead at STA J. Will running the trim cables that far without supports be an issue?

[Zzz]

Is there an EAA chapter in your area? Odds are good you can find some leads on good welders there. "Welding" is like "painting" in that it is a broad term to describe too many skill sets. You wouldn't want to hire a house painter to paint your car or portrait, and you wouldn't want most welders near your fuselage.

Truth. Use keywords like "thinwall steel tubing joints." A bicycle frame builder would the ideal arc ninja for the job.

Or, practice your welding for a few months and add a new skill.