Why use non-ferrous bits when cutting aluminum parts with router?

[Cherokeedriver]

I'm about to starting cutting my ribs uses a router laminate bit method. I have seen some people stating that they were buying non-ferrous bits to do the final cutting. I understand the general concept of not contaminating aluminum with steel, but last time I checked my duckbill shears, files, etc are ferrous. So is it necessary to replace my ferrous bits with non-ferrous bits? Thanks

[jaredyates]

I'm just an amateur, but I used ferrous tools to cut almost all of my aluminum. There were times when scotchbrite was a better choice, and I used that instead. Some folks use separate tools when cutting steel vs cutting aluminum, but this is the first I've heard of not using ferrous tools at all.

[alaskabearhawk]

The reference is to bits that are designed to cut non-ferrous materials, not the material itself. If that were the case, none of your drill bits would work as you implied from other tools. Some router cutter designs are specific for wood and may not give the results desired. Here's a few examples of non-ferrous bits:

http://www.toolstoday.com/p-5994-alu...uter-bits.aspx
http://www.toolstoday.com/p-6239-sol...uter-bits.aspx

You can always give it a try with what you have on a practice piece to see if it works.

[Jflyer]

On another project outside of Bearhawk Country, a friend is machining 3/4" thick 6061 Aluminum with CNC Router. He said his best results are with the 'coated' router bits. The tools suppliers are giving this same recommendation which is where he recieved the advice. Just an FYI:

[bestbearhawk1231]

These are the bits I used, no issues other than you need to keep a drop of oil on the bearing to keep it from seizing...you may not have that problem. I keep different files, sanding belts/paper, and scotchbrite wheels/pads/roloc disks for steel and aluminum. This is mainly to prevent myself from imbedding steel shavings into aluminum and having a corrosion problem down the road. The 3 flute cutters will give a nicer finish and coated bits reduce friction to keep them from overheating. I used boelube in a stick on the bit in between sandwiches of ribs since the stick version melts and flows where it needs to go so it covers the bit nicely...after seizing a bearing I started putting a drop of oil on the bearing at the same time. PS, the bearing seizure was my fault. I bent the bit slightly which caused undo stress on the bearing which led to its failure. The oil was preventive maintenance so to speak.

Also, if you are cutting out your litening holes with the router, do not cut all the way through or you will have a bunch of "pizza cutters" flying everywhere. Make sure you have a good handle on the ribs before reaching over to shut off the router at the end of the cut...that is how I bent the bit which had the bearing seizure. Good luck, you will make a mess with the aluminum chips!

[bestbearhawk1231]

Here is the link to the bits, I forgot to add it.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Diablo-1-2-in-3-Flute-Flush-Trim-Bit-DR44100/202585369