DavzLSA progress

davzLSA

Junior Member
HI Guys,
I have progress to report, I got my corvair engine running. Around the middle of November I loaded up my assembled engine and my son and I took it down to Florida to the Flycorvair finishing school and ren the engine. It ran perfectly. Now I have my fuse tacked together just today. I would have kept welding but I ran out of acetylene gas. The tubing kit I got from Mark really made short work of getting the fuse together. Hope you all like the pics. Oh please dont be too hard on me about the welding, its not finished and only a tack weld.
 

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Awesome progress! Great technique using the dado notched 4x4 blocks. Wish I had thought of that when I was at that stage. Keep us posted on your progress.
 
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Hi Guys,
Some progress to report. I now have my vertical stab attached to the fuselage. Today I finished my 1st horizontal stabilizer. I bought the ribs from Mark. I bent the leading edges for the horizontal and the bows for the elevators all at one time. Its was the part I hated the most because I was afraid id screw up some good metal, as it was I think I did OK. Before I began I lofted the horizontal stab curves and elevator curves on 1 inch graph paper from the plans to make the curve templates. Got nice curves and didn't kink any tubes. I have some photos, Its the bending jig I made and my midget torch. If you are welding the hard way with gas like I m this torch is a life saver and it greatly improved my welding. I'm not fighting the weight of a regular torch and that gigantic heavy hose. I still have a ton of welding to do.
 

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I like the torch and I also found the lightweight hoses were great..

Don't know if you have one, but I used a "Gassaver" like this (https://www.amazon.com/Smith-Solderi.../dp/B001ASA01U) I purchased off Ebay for about $65

For about a year, it seemed like I basically lit it when I went into the garage and shut it off when I was done.

And then suddenly, the welding is done and it all is set aside.

One thing that worked for me was to make the tab that holds the elevator pivot bearings a press fit on the cross tube in the rear stabilizer mount then weld the mount in. Once the stabilizers are mounted, I found it useful to be able to adjust the tab after the elevators are test fit to the horizontal stab . A small rotation of the tab changes the amount of deflection available on the elevators. Once things were to my liking, I removed the elevator and bearings and welded the tab to the cross tube.

The elevator horns need to pretty closely match the plans outline to be able to get them worked up in place and over the pivot bearings.

Once everything is in place, there isn't a ton of clearance between the trim horn(s) and the elevator push/pull tube so you will need to play with it a bit to optimize clearances.
 
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Hi BTAZ, Ive been looking at that too and it was my intention to get it all aligned before welding it in place. I think I will align the elevators and horizontal stabs all at one time that way the horizontal stabs and elevator will have the correct incidence angle. Looking at the elevator horn I have not yet figured out how to get that little kink like the plans show. I wish there were more views of the drawing. or some more detailed pictures. Thanks for the compliment Bill.
 
The corvair engine intrigues me! What RPM will it be turning at rated power? Will it have dual spark plugs? What type of ignition? Engine weight? Single carb, dual carb or injection? I've always liked those engines. Seems like about a perfect match for the LSA.

Bill
 
I think I remember a bit more of how I formed the joggle.

After I had the pieces made, I clamped them together and match drilled the lower two holes. I put bolts through these holes and then pried apart the ears at the top. Then I put an appropriate thickness spacer between the two ears and squeezed them back together. That put in the joggle and then I welded on the doublers. Bolted them back together and match drilled the push rod attach hole through the ears.
 
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Thanks for that info BTAZ, ill try that, Bill the corvair engine is very comparable to the continental o200 is physical size and weight. I have the 3000cc engine and it is dynoed at 120 hp at about 3k rpm. It has a regular auto ignition with 2 coils and 1 distributor. but it is dual points one a mechanical point and the other an electronic point. It uses a 67 inch warp drive prop, it uses a ma3spa carb, If you are interested I highly recommend you go to William Wynnes web site flycorvair.com, My engine is basically a kit engine, it has a 5th bearing where the prop hub attaches, it uses a high volume oil pump and a t10 cam.it uses single spark plugs per cylinder. Its a very smooth running engine and will produce a large percentage of full power on 5 cylinders. It has forged pistons and rods. Its a very tough engine. The thing I like most about it is its simplicity and the fact that I can get most part for it at the local auto parts store. For the price of a run out core o200 you can build a new engine with all new parts. That's the way I justified it. And the fact that there are hundreds of planes flying the engine with hundreds of hours. I have video of the engine running on the test stand but I dont think I can post video here.
 
All good stuff, Dave! I've been a pilot for over 40 years, but a gearhead, looking for more power, longer than that! Always thought Ralph Nader was a nut. Dual points, I understand. Not sure how you do 2 coils with 1 distributor, though. The Warp Drive prop is a great one. I bought a Kitfox amphib, with a wood prop. The spray was devastating to that wood prop. The Warp Drive guys said their prop could live CONTINUOUSLY in the water spray, with no ill effects. They were right. Great prop!
Please keep us up to date on your progress.

Bill
 
Hi BTAZ I reviewed your PDF file again and found that you did a great job in documenting the elevator horns and it has pretty much answered my questions. Your PDF file is invaluable for us scratch builders. Thanks
 
Hi Bill, the 2 coils are wired to the 2 sets of points, the output of the coils go through a passive coil switch. So which ever set of points you have voltage switched to is the one that fires its coil.
 
oh something else about the corvair bill, the carb flanges are milled off the heads and aluminum intake pipes are welded on the intake logs, it then uses a y shaped intake manifold made of welded stainless steel that puts the carb under the engine like a continental. The engine has to use carb heat as well because the intake manifold gets very cold. Like any normally aspirated flight engine.
 
Hi Guys, I have more progress to report. I have built my horizontal stabilizers and elevators. Nothing remarkable about that. But I did deviate from the plans. I did not like the bg gap the hinges on the plans left between the rear spar of the trim tab and the rib in the elevator. So I used the tube rear spar of the trim tab as a hinge point. I welded some bushings in the adjacent ribs along side the trim tab and used pins to hinge the rear spar tube. I dont know if it is lighter but I think it looks better. I checked with Bob before I did it and he said I could do it.Anyway I have included pictures.
 

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It looks Good!

My only concern is whether you will have enough clearance for five layers of fabric.(top piece overlapping the bottom plus a tape on the elevator, one layer plus tape on the trim tab)
 
HI Btaz, I did not even think of that. I guess Ill find out when I go to cover them? I think Ill be OK though because the gaps are not as tight as I wanted them to be. Now im waiting on my lathe and mill get get here so I can make ail the machined parts, my son is a machinist so im going to out him to work.
 
I like the clean look! I've looked at these pics several times and still haven't figured something out. How will you put the hinge pins in place, when everything is covered?

Bill
 
HI Bill, The plan is to cover the trim tabs first then install them with the pins and cotter pins through holes drilled in the pins and the bushings, then cover the elevator. Im figuring this out as I go so Ill let you now how it goes.
 
Do you intend to use Oratex?

I think it is going to be tough to get paint down in that gap area wth the trim tabs in place.

Maybe you can cover right over the gap area with fabric tape left slightly loose so as to not prevent the hinge movement.
 
Hi Bill thanks for the encouragement. Its all just one big adventure building an airplane, I think that is why we do it? Hi Btaz I was thinking of using the stewart system for the covering system. As with many things with this project im just learning as I go. Ive never covered and airplane before so im looking forward to learning to use the stewart system. As a matter of fact I will start with the trim tabs. Worst case scenario I will have to rebuild the elevators or trim tabs and I think I could do a better job the second time around because I now have practice!!! What do you guys think about the stewart system? Have any of you ever used it?
 
It is great to see your progress.

It was my first time covering too and I ran into a couple "clearance challenges" due to fabric build up which is why I asked.

Oratex is already colored so the painting challenge I mentioned wouldn't be there. However, their glue is set with heat so I don't know if you could get the glue set down in the trim tab to elevator gap.

I attended both the Stewart's and Stits seminars at Oshkosh last year. The Stewart's was much more in depth and I was leaning that way until a friend of mine gave me his leftover Stits supplies and fabric which tilted the financial consideration to Stits.

When I was researching, the thing that was always driven home was that Stewarts is not forgiving of even the slightest deviation to their application process and the issues caused may not show up for a year. So the overriding guidance was to do everything EXACTLY as instructed with very particular attention to any possible contamination in your air system or on the surface you are painting. While that can be the same for all of them, I know the Stits coatings(I used Poly Tone) was much easier to spray without runs or orange peel then the automotive urethane I used on my wings.

And now that I think about it, during my research, there were plenty of complaints about Stits smelling bad and that MEK is "Nasty stuff" but I never saw one about "All my paint is bubbling off " of which there are several Stewart accounts.

Also, just because Stewarts is waterborne, it is not really any less toxic to breathe then the other paint systems, though not as bad as a urethane based system that really requires a fresh air breathing system.

Stits does smell BAD and there are lots of coats to apply. But it was pretty straightforward to use and easy to spray without too many "oops".
 
Hi Btaz thanks for the advise. I am now second guessing my decision to go with the Stewart system. Maybe ill look into the Oratex system? Since you have researched all the different systems which one is the most economical? I don't mean cheap by most economical but which one do you think is the best value for the money? I'm a long way from covering but I am closer to sand blasting and painting my fuse tubing and I want to be sure to use a coating that will be compatible with the covering system I'm going to use. I know that the Stewart system has a recommended coating for the tubing before applying the fabric. I also wanted to tell you that I like the way you figured out how to set the elevator control horn angle. I think I will mount my horizontal stabs and elevator vertically to get them mated to each other and set the control horn angle. Its hard to beat gravity to hold things in line? If I get the tail feathers in line like that, it will be easier to get the correct incidence angle when I mount them to the fuselage. I finally pulled the fuse out of the jig and turned it on its side so I can weld up the bottom and parts I could not get to while it was in the jig. I bought gear legs from Mark so once I get the fuse welded up I am going to attach the main gear legs. I have matco wheels and 21 inch desser tires. What did you do about flying wires? Did you buy some or are you using the ones in the plans? I'm considering buying flying wires because I have heard about the ones in the plans breaking. I think it would be a bad thing to lose a horizontal stabilizer in flight? I also wanted to ask how you did your seats. Did you use plywood under the cushions? What type of foam did you use? I am also thinking about changing the trim handle position. I think I am going to put a lever under the throttle quadrant on the side of the cockpit. I even thought about using a wheel but I think the lever under the throttle quadrant would be easier.
 
My opinions(which may be completely wrong)

I really wanted to use Oratex for the possible weight savings. However, I just wasn't willing to spend the $3500 to $5K I saw for the material estimate given I already had most of the "capital equipment" items and facility available. I already had a decent compressor and air system and I was comfortable setting up my garage as a paint booth. I did need to buy a good quality spray gun(a DevilBiss FL4 for about $200) and spent a bit of time learning to set it up.

Note even if you don't need the tools/space for the covering because you used Oratex you will still likely need them to paint the wings and boot cowl forward.

As mentioned, my only "training" was the Stewart and Stits seminars at Oshkosh last year. I came home undecided but leaning toward Stewarts as they have a very good set of online videos that "spoke well" of their commitment and support. I was nervous about some of the "bad experiences" I had read about but they all seemed to stem from a lack of attention to detail when using the process(contamination of the air supply or surface, not thinning precisely, not adhering to drying time restrictions between coats, poor spray gun set up, etc.).

I primed my sandblasted fuselage with the Stits Epoxy primer as I was confident it would work with any of the covering systems which allowed me to delay my decision even further.

But then I was given some fabric, PolyTack, and the Stits covering book(absolutely invaluable and a must have) and away I went. In the end. I think I have about $2K in the covering.

Even at the end of it I am certainly not a master painter but I found the Stits coatings pretty run tolerant and not subject to the issues I had with orange peel in the urethane used on the wings. Even with my inexperience over the 10 or so coats(2 sprayed Poly Brush, 3 cross coats(6 coats) of Poly Spray and 2 coats of Poly tone) of various chemicals needed I only had one very small run.

I posted a "Covering notes" entry on the forum that gives a bit more information including chemical quantities and some other notes.

Regarding the wire ends, I made them and feel that if they are made correctly(hot forged and hot bent, annealed at the end of the process, inspected for cracks in the bend before sandblast and paint) with attention paid to get the bends correct and the attach bolts tightened correctly so there isn't any misalignment with the flying wire my opinion is they should be fine. That said, I expect there are plenty of ways to make/install them wrong(adjust the bend cold a few times, let them twist slightly wen tightening the attach bolt, etc.)

But I'll see in a few hundred hours.

I covered the seats with fabric and it seems to be working fine. I am just now adding some tempur foam cushions and a seat cover.

I am fine with the trim on the ceiling and don't feel moving it would be an improvement. It is pretty easy to adjust blind.

If using pre-welded gear legs, you will want to jig them in alignment to the fuselage before welding on the attach brackets.

And yes, "Which way is precisely down?" is one of the best engineering standards available.

I left you my phone number in a PM if you want to call and talk.
 
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Hi Btaz thanks for responding to my questions, sorry about hitting you with so many at one time. This airplane for me is a retirement project so im not hurrying to get it done but I constantly think about it hence all the questions. I have seen a Bearhawk LSA in person but it was a quick build kit that was already covered. So it was not very helpful in seeing how things went together. I got your number and I intend to call at some point in time when I hope it will be convenient for you.
 
Hey Stinger that looks really good, I like the yellow strip. Are you planning a military paint scheme? I have considered that but Im a ways off from that. It looks like a factory job. Good work.
 
No, not military this time. American Indian theme is what I am shooting for the aircraft is Lil Bear . Stinger
 
Progress to report, finally got all the finish welding done on the fuse, I am now fitting the horizontal stab, I have it and the elevators built. I ran into a problem in that the top longerons were too close together to allow the elevator horns to move up and down without hitting the longerons. So I ended up cutting them from the tail post and spreading them out so that I had 2 inches between them at 5 inches from the tail post per the plans. I think I got them too close together when I initially welded them to the tail post.
 
Thanks for the encouragement Bill, I found another problem after I mocked up the horizontal stab and elevators. It seems that if the trim tab horns are placed per the plans they are on center line with the elevator horns. So they will have to be offset to one side or the other so they don;t interfere with the elevator horns. I discussed it with Btaz and he encountered the same problem. He used a single torque tube for both trim tab horns and offset the trim tab horn to one side. I will do something similar.
 
Was great speaking with you earlier, Dave! feel free to call if you need more clarification regarding how I filled in some of the blanks.

Just to clarify(in pictures) for future reference.

I made the torque tubes for the trim tab arms protrude the same amount past the innermost horizontal stabilizer rib(roughly 1/2") and then had a single tube that bridged them together and bolted in into the torque tubes.

I made a single bell crank to the same outline but of thicker material than shown in the plans and slid it over this center tube. I welded some doublers on the end of the bell crank to bring it out to fit the ID of the trim cable shackle.

Once the horizontal stabilizers, elevators, and the push /pull tube from the stick was installed, I positioned the bell crank on this center tube to the most advantageous position for clearance on the push/pull tube and upper longerons as well as angle for operation. Only at that point did I weld in place. Final cable shackle attachment was done with clevis pins instead of bolts.

Regarding the push/pull tube, UPS can only ship 8' lengths while the tube needed to be around 9'. I spoke with Bob and he gave me the go ahead to use a smaller OD tube(slip fit inside the called out push/pull tube using AC43 as guidance) to get the required length. This reduction in diameter was also advantageous to get the required clearances in this area.
 

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Thanks for the info Bard it was very helpful. Here are some photos of where I am presently in the installation of the horizontal stab and elevators. I am now in the process of getting the elevators fitted to the horizontal stab and getting the elevator horn set. The welds are not very pretty but they are solid After cutting the upper longeron tubes from the tail post I had to slip tubes over them to extend them to make the long enough to reach the tail post, it was the only way I could figure out how to get the space I needed between the longerons for the elevator hour to be able to move without interference from the longerons. The extensions were installed per AC43.13, so I believe they are safe.
 

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Are you showing the final spacers that go between the elevator horns? They look thicker then I remember them......

Per the plans, there is only supposed to be 1/4" between them and it looks like you have about 1/2"
 
Thanks for the info Bard it was very helpful. Here are some photos of where I am presently in the installation of the horizontal stab and elevators. I am now in the process of getting the elevators fitted to the horizontal stab and getting the elevator horn set. The welds are not very pretty but they are solid After cutting the upper longeron tubes from the tail post I had to slip tubes over them to extend them to make the long enough to reach the tail post, it was the only way I could figure out how to get the space I needed between the longerons for the elevator hour to be able to move without interference from the longerons. The extensions were installed per AC43.13, so I believe they are safe.
 
Thanks Brad, the plans were not very clear on that but I will remove one of the spacers and see how things fit im sure it will improve.
 
Hi Guys,
After some good council and advise from you guys in this site I am going to repair the mess on the upper longerons you see in my last pictures. I consider myself a student and I am learning. I believe the smartest thing any student can do is to listen to the advise of people you have been there, done that and have the t-shirt. When I get it fixed I will post new pictures. I welcome any constructive criticism because I have a lot to learn about welding and several other things in building this airplane. I am really glad I found this site because of all who are willing to share their expertise.I hope you guys will continue to keep me on the straight and narrow path to a successful build. Thanks to everyone who has helped me so far.
 
Glad to hear you have this hurdle worked out and know how to move forward.

That is the nice thing about steel tube fuselages, it is pretty well documented how to rework one section without structural impact questions.

The "learning aspect" of building from plans isn't for the faint of heart.......
 
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Hi Guys, here are the latest pics and my repair. I cut the top longerons and replaced them I also did a welding test to make sure my welds are strong, they are just not very pretty so I call them gorilla welds because the are ugly but strong. Feel free to comment as I have said I will always accept constructive criticism,
 

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HI Guys, I have progress to report, today I got all the bracketry fitted and welded for my horizontal stab and here are some pictures hope you like them.
 

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Hi Guys,
Still working on the tail feathers. I am at this point trying to get the tail wires fitted. The top tail wires are a little too long so Im afraid i'm going to have to cut them. Not too happy about having to cut a $150 tail wire but I really don't have a choice if I am going to use them. Btaz was asking how long they were so I have pictures enclosed with them lying on a ruler. I wish everyone a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year!!!!

David Swann
 

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I have a question for anyone who would like to offer an answer, What is the wisdom about chasing rolled threads with a die? Do it or don't?
 
You could try chasing them with a nut as it would "reform" the thread instead of cutting away the damaged metal.

A regular AN nut will likely work better than a stainless nut as there is less chance of galling.

There are also "thread repair" dies available that again would reform the metal instead of cutting it away.

In any case, use some lubricant.

Last resort, better to fix them with a carefull application of a jewlers file. Note there are thread repair files that work well though, if the damage is localized, I've used a jewlers file under a magnifying glass.

I can pretty much guarantee that if you run a standard die on them it will take extra metal out, basically converting them into cut threads and the associated drawbacks
 
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I have always threaded a good nut inboard of where I cut threads off. Backing the nut out rectifies the cut threads enough I have been told.

Bob has approved the Patrol builders routinely cutting off some threads of their wires so the same size wires can be ordered for the Patrol & the 4 place. For group discount purposes. Mark
 
HI Brad,
I did try using an AN nut but it would only go on for a few threads then it got very tight and I did not want to gall the threads and get the nut stuck on. I tried it with lube oil as well with the same results. I did run a standard die down on the threads but it did not seem to remove any metal just a film that was on the threads. They seem to work fine now I'm able to get the stainless steel nuts on them with no effort. I'm just dreading to have to cut the top wires.
Thanks,
David Swann
 
Thanks Mark,
That makes me feel a little easier about cutting the wires. Now that I can get the nuts on them it should go easy? I hope. I plan to cut them with a cutoff wheel in my die grinder.

Thanks,
David Swann
 
If the issue is getting a nut on after cutting, then like Mark said, thread a nut on before cutting the end off. When you cut, do it as squarely as you can and then dress the end square on a belt sander.

Thread a few on and it will help you hold it square on the table of a bandsaw if that's what you use.

A good look under a magnifying glass will guide you when dressing the end after cutting.

It takes a bit of care to make sure the lead thread is still good after cutting but not difficult.
 
Yes first I will thread the nut on and then cut the wire, I plan to use the cut off wheel in my die grinder to do the cut. I think it will make the cleanest cut.
 
HI Guys,
Progress to report, I finally got the tail wires on. I had to remake one of the connectors, one seized on one of my tail wires and fortunately it was only up the wire about 1/4 of an inch so I had to cut the wire which turned out to be OK because I needed to shorten it about that much anyway. Here are some pictures they are a little over exposed, anyway check them out,
 

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Cutting the wires turned out to be a non-event, putting the nut on before cutting helped a lot, The threads were not that badly mess up from the cut so the nut had easy work reforming the threads. Now its on to the struts, I think I will do them tomorrow so ill be posting as soon as I get them done.
 
Progress, with the tail wires done I am now working on the front horizontal stab struts. OK here is the way I have decided to attach the strut to the front of the horizontal stab. I made a bushing that Im going to weld into one end the strut tube, the bushing is about 3/8 in diameter and drilled and tapped for a 1/4 28 bolt. Next I cut the head off of a an4 bolt and welded it into 3 inches of an4 bushing tube left about 1 inch of thread sticking out of one end the bushing tube. The opposite end of the bushing tube with the bolt welded in will be heated and flattened and will have a 1/4 inch hole drilled so it can be bolted to the front spar of the horizontal stab. As for the other end of the strut I will split it and flatten it to slide up on the plate welded to the bottom of the fuse. I will weld reinforcing doubles ala BTAZ on the split ends and bolt it to the plate. The picture is a picture of the bushings I will weld into one end of the strut tube and the cleats that have the AN4 bolt welded in one end and the other end will be heated and flattened.
 

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OK guys horizontal stab struts are DONE!!! Here are the pics. Tell me what you think.
 

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The strut forking over the leading edge looks nice but when you apply the fabric you are going to have a large opening into the slip stream. I think I would only attach to the bottom. Stinger
 
Hi Stinger, thanks for your comment and recommendation. Im not sure though if I know exactly what you are talking about. The plans are not very clear on very much of anything about the the struts or their attachment to the horizontal stab. If you spotted a problem I want to address it but I need to understand it. Please tell me which picture you are referring to where you see a problem. Thanks, David
 
David I hope this helps. yes, many items in the plans are vague. I am sure there are many ways to skin a cat but it is hard at times. Stinger
 

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I think the "Forking over the leading edge" is an optical illusion. I think Dave closely replicated my solution but rather than forging the upper adjuster from a single piece he welded two pieces together


.image_4149.jpg
 

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Hi Stinger, I think I see now what you are talking about the back side of the adjuster may contact the fabric on the bottom of the leading edge, so it looks like I will just need to adjust the angle down a little to avoid touching the fabric?
 
Hard to tell from the photo, but the strut angle looks similar. And my fitting probably can start its bend sooner since it is a single forged piece instead of a welded assembly.

But my end is also bit different than yours in that the flat that attaches to the stabilizer is offset from the fitting center line where yours is centered.

You will need to make sure your fitting isn't going to interfere with the fabric covering.
 
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If it does Ill adjust it, but im a long way from covering at this point Im sure there will need to be a million tweaks before this rodeo is over.
 
Just grab a 1" strip of thin aluminum long enough to bridge across a couple ribs and slide it around to check clearances.

And I have faith you (presuming you keep your head down on the project) too will look up one day and have that "Suddenly its done" moment. :)
 
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Hi Guys More progress to report, finally got the control horns welded to the elevators and got that plate the elevators bearing attach t welded to the rear horizontal stab tube. It turned out pretty good, I have more than enough range of motion in the elevators without any interference. I still need to weld the stops in on the up and the down. I have over 40 degrees of motion in both directions.Looking forward now to getting the trim tab system and working.
 

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Dave

It might be an illusion, but it looks like the edge distance in the control horn for the bottom bolt is on the minimal side.

You will probably want to finish your control sticks/torque tube and get the elevator push/pull tubes in place before you finish off the trim as there is minimal clearance between the trim belcrank and the push/pull tube so some adjustment may be required.
 
HI Brad, Thanks for the comment, I glad you mentioned that and I will check that clearance, I had not given it much thought. I was just too excited about getting the horns welded on and have the elevators go up and down smoothly. Yes it does not take much to get me excited when it come to my airplane.
 
also I plan on getting rid of those big nylon lock nuts and replacing them with the smaller castellated nuts with cotter pins.
 
Once the spacers are in place then those bolts are tightened and "non rotational" so a lock nut would be appropriate. Since everything is fully in shear, you can use a thin lock nut to help with clearance.

And your excitement is well deserved!
 
Progress to report today, built my push pull tube for the elevators, got the down stop for the elevators welded in, for 20 down and 30 up and I am able to remove the elevators still, That was a struggle but I finally figure out the secret combinations to getting them out after talking to BTAZ. Also I built the front rudder pedals. To attach the rod end bearings to the end of the tube I turned down an aluminum plug for each end of the tube and drilled and tapped them for the rod end bearing. Aah la RV4 style. I plan to bolt these plugs in to the tubes. Ill have pictures when I get it all installed.
 
Hi Guys, more progress today. I know it really does not look like progress but it seems like the more that gets done it means that much more to do. Everything that gets done needs to be adjusted and tested so really that's what Ive been doing. An example is the push pull for the elevator control. I bolted in the plugs I made but before that I had to adjust the length of the tube, so I ended up cutting it about 4 times or 5 times just cutting it a little at a time to get the length just right, that took most of the day. Then just for fun I bolted the rudder on to see how it was going to act with the elevators. It did OK but I had to drill the holes in the hinges to 1/4 inch as called for in the plans. Then I needed to bolt in the tail wheel control horn. At first I bolted it in backward and did not discover this until I bolted the rudder back on the the vert stab. So I took it back off and re did it. Put it back on now everything works great. Getting more than the 30 degree swing on the rudder in both directions. Just need to weld on the stops now. So with the tail feathers well on the way I have started making the gear leg attach weldments. I cheated on the gear legs though, I bought a set from Mark. I just did not have the mental stability to deal with all those funky angles. So thanks Mark for helping me to remain sane. Here are more pictures and please don't freak out over the nasty looking welds, I've tested them they are strong just not very photogenic kind of like me.
 

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Looks good!

I see you were able to make the entire push/pull tube out of the 7/8x .028". I think I mentioned that I wanted to avoid a truck shipment so got Bob's blessing to use an 8' piece of the 7/8" extended(per Ac 43 13) with a piece of 3/4 x .035" as required(roughly needed an extra foot). This also bought be a bit more room for my trim tab horn as it is fairly tight clearance between it and the push/pull tube. Keep this in mind if you run into clearance challenges.
 
HI Brad, that smaller diameter tube at the elevator control horn made a difference in the amount of clearance between the horn and the top longeron. I think there will be plenty of space for the trim tab belcrank.
 
more progress today, started making the gear leg attach hardware. Got all pieces made just need to get them bent up. Im making a bending die from a steel bar as I saw on this forum, dont remember who was doing it but I thought it was a great idea. It should make for some nice looking parts.
 
HI Guys more progress today. Spent most pf the day making a bending mandrel for some of the landing gear brackets. I still need to make more and remake some I messed up and bent wrong. The mill really came in handy making that bending mandrel. I think it would be very difficult to scratch build without a lathe and mill.
 

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Looking good!

For easier welding, you may want to weld on the little doubler tabs before bending, in particular on the pieces where the tabs end up on the inside of the bend.
 
HI Brad, I was thinking about that and I will probably do that because I need to remake some of these parts. Of the 3 parts that you see bent in the pictures one is bent the wrong way, needed a left and right part and the other is bent too far, it should only be bent 30 degrees and I have it bent 120 degrees. So ill have opportunity to fix my screw ups as soon as I get more .072 steel in.
 
Hey Brad wanted to ask you about the aileron pulley mount that welds near the gear leg mounts, as usual the plans are not very clear on that. Did you attach that pulley mount when you attacked the gear leg mounts or afterward? Also do you have any pictures of the pulley mount before you installed it? Thats about the only thing I need some clarification on.
 
IIRC with regards to the strut fittings, , I only bent the top two two strut attach fittings to the angle shown in the plans. Once I had them tacked to the fuselage, I bolted the lower strut straps to the top pieces and then bent them to fit the fuselage.

And I agree that it would be tough to scratch build without at least a small mill and lathe.
 
I didn't weld on the pulley mount until the very end. After I had temporarily mated the wings/fabricated the struts (which meant I had the strut end pieces made) I put the lower strut fitting into one of the short strut drops that came with the struts and bolted it to the fuselage fitting. then I ran a cable through the strut piece to help me place the pulley/brackets.

For the front pulley bracket, I used the one shown in the plans.

For the rear, I welded a tube directly to the fuselage and tapped it for the pulley bolt to thread in to and then used a safety wired drilled head bolt
 
HI Brad, that's what I was thinking, they are welded on last. I would really like to see some detailed pictures of the pulley mount. That would be a great help.
 
This is what I did for the pulley mount. Slight variation from plans in that I used a threaded bushing welded to the fuselage frame instead of the rear bracket shown in the plans. I used a drilled head bolt and safety wired it at final installation.
 

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Hey Guys got some progress to report Boom!!!! Rudder pedals done!!!! Check em out! A few hours and only one 2nd degree burn but hey I had fun!!!
 

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Hi Guys, got more progress to report, I have the front seat support welded in and the idler arm made and welded on, I bought gear legs from Mark so now im at the stage where im trying to get the gear legs jigged up to be able to weld the attachment brackets to the fuse, I have the fuse jigged into position for this but im trying now to jig the gear legs into position to weld the brackets. Im having a hard time coming up with a way to do that, so if anyone has store bought gear legs and has had to weld the attachment bracket to the fuse with the gear legs jigged into position please let me know how you did it. Looking for suggestions. Thanks
 

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HI Guys more progress to report, I know it dont look like much but it took a long time to get to this point. I finally managed to get my fuse and gear legs jigged up together. The biggest problem I had was getting the correct height of the fuse above the floor. As you can see in the pictures I used straps over the rafters to get a fine adjustment ability. Once I did that I made wood blocks with 1 1/4 diameter holes and split them. They were then attached to a 2x4 the correct distance apart to get the correct angle of the gear leg to the fuse longeron. I still need to more adjustment though, the legs are too close to the longerons for the brackets to go on. Per the plans the center of the pivot point in the gear legs is 1/2 inch from the outer edge of the longeron tube. Before I started this I made sure the fuse was centered on the center line and that it was level, I also hooked my tape measure in the outside axle tube and measured back to the plumb bob at the tail that was centered on the center line and made sure I got the same measurement on both sides. made sure that both axles were level horizontally. I think to check toe in and out I will slide my wheels on and be sure they have the same distance between the wheels front and back. It was a nice day today so I shined up Lucille, I know this is not a car forum but dang she is pretty when she is shined up. Hope you like the pictures.
David
 

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Did you purchase the shock struts or are you fabricating them?

If you have or plan to purchase them, you probably want to put them in place as well before finalizing your position.
 
Hey Brad, Im going to build the shock struts. My son is training to be a machinist and I have a lathe mill combo machine. I think i will only need the lathe on the shock struts. Im planning on using your method of the bronze insert in the top plugs. Are you having any problems with it leaking? I know you would have several landings on them by now? I will be using the plans and your PDF info for that build. Thanks for putting it out there.
 
HI Guys, a little more progress to report. I finalllllllly got the gear legs jigged up and ready to weld. I have spent several hours The biggest PIA was getting the toe in and out set up. As you can see in the pictures I was able to get a piece of square tubing squared up with the center line. With that tubing square with the center line I was able to drop plumb bobs off it to get the measurements from the plumb bob string to the axle. So now Im all ready to weld up the brackets for the gear legs to the fuselage. EXCEPT Im out of acetylene gas.
 

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