patrol rivets on ail/flap gussets

[Chewie]

These -4 rivets that link the rib, spar, skin and gusset are killing me. How did you guys get to these? If not for the gusset my squeezer could get at it but now it's 1/2 inches over my deepest yoke. Also near impossible to get a bucking bar in there.
Anyone have a 3-1/2 or 4 inch yoke I can borrow?

[Rollie]

I used solid rivets for the ones I could get to and pulled rivets for the rest.

[BravoGolf]

What about CherryMax rivets?

[Chewie]

A great idea, one I've considered. But don't I need a dedicated riveter for those?

[zkelley2]

Ya. Another tool. One you'll need here and there though.

I *think* you could get away with your standard home pop riveter for a couple, but it's my understanding the tool will fail quickly. I'm not sure you can get the required pull strength either.

[rodsmith]

I've used my pop rivet tool for cherry max and it has set the rivets fine. I've probably only used it for 20 or so rivets, last resort when I can't drive a rivet.

[Chewie]

Thanks for the tip!

[zkelley2]

Do you have the tiny 2lb Tungsten bucking bar? That's my go to when it's hard to get to stuff.

This one https://aircraft-tool.com/shop/detail.aspx?id=ATS6007 and this one https://aircraft-tool.com/shop/detail.aspx?id=ATS6005 I used a good bit.

[Chewie]

I have a 1 x 3 " cylindrical tungsten that I love. It won't fit, but that first one going in sideways might work? For the same price you could get a 4" TATCO yoke. I'm leaving that way honestly, something says I'll use it again.

[Ed Welfred]

I used a 4" yoke on a squeezer, not easy with three factory or shop heads all in the same tight corner. I used the 4" yoke for almost all the rivets. Your picture shows the aileron but on the flap the plans call for 4/32 rivets at all places on the centre gussets. I just caught it in time. Also it was only after I finish riveting both the flaps and the ailerons that I saw on John Bickhams sight that the top gussets are removed for clamping the hinge brackets in place when aligning the flaps to the wing. Although I have gotten good at drilling out rivets that is not an option here so I will have to figure out some way to align the hinges when the time comes.
Hope that gives you a heads up.
Ed

[Chewie]

Ed,
Good point on keeping the hinge areas clear. I'll consider holding off. Why is drilling out not an option, do you have fabric on?

[spinningwrench]

If you have a mill or a friend with one it is pretty easy to make a custom squeezer yoke out of aluminum and far cheaper than buying.

[geraldmorrissey]

I'll chip in on the new yoke if I get to use it when the time comes. Some other NW Bearhawkers might chip in as well. Why pay full freight for somthing you'll use once.
Gerry
Patrol #30

[Chewie]

I went ahead and ordered the 4" from Brown Tool. It's a TEMCO. Happy to lend it out. Maybe we should start a tool library here for builders who need to borrow special rarely-used told and jigs?

[rodsmith]

A tool library is a great idea, especially for scratch builders. I am beyond the point of taking much advantage of it.

[BravoGolf]

I would be interested in participating!

[Chewie]

You already have Scott... the hinge mount jig! That was a lifesaver.

[Pbruce]

There were some I couldn’t reach with my 3“ yoke. Mark G said to use steel-shank flush pull rivets where required. That’s what I did. It requires both 3/32 and 1/8 pull rivets.

Also, I went to Princess Auto (which is like a Canadian version of Harbour freight). I bought a pneumatic pull riveter there for something like 40 bucks on sale. (looks like a bug sprayer). Its much easier to consistently pull steel-shank rivets with than my $75.00 Stanley delux riveter. It’s just not worth doing without this tool! You are far less prone to damage your plane or your knuckles and palms using the pneumatic riveter. The results will look much better. it’s fun, as opposed to a grind.