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  • Patrol door stop

    I am getting close to finishing my Patrol. Just some final assembly and fairings to make. One thing I want to do is to make a "bumper" or door stop for the door. When it opens, it hits the wing strut. I wondered if anyone has come up with a neat, simple way to do this. Everything I have come up with so far is not very attractive in my opinion. The old Aeronca champs and chiefs had a strap around the lift strut with a short tube with a rubber tip on it. Not sure I like the look. Drilling the strut to attach something would be unthinkable! I could epoxy or proseal a small piece of soft material to the door or strut itself. What do ya think?

  • #2
    Opps! I forgot to include my name in my last post...looks like it showed up at the side anyway though.

    Collin Campbell,
    Bolivar, MO Flying 4-pace N370CC, Patrol #056

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    • #3
      Hi Colin, Mark Goldberg's Patrol has a gas strut attached between the door opening and the bottom of the door. The strut when fully extended stops the door just shy of the wing strut. Its mounted toward the front so it doesn't interfere with your feet when you climb in.
      Eric Newton - Long Beach, MS
      Bearhawk Tailwheels and Builder's Manuals
      http://bhtailwheels.com

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      • #4
        Here's something I did on my motorhome access panels. The panels are lightweight frp - gas struts would probably crack them on closing if you weren't very careful. It's basically a spring with two brackets. To close the panel, you just pull on the center of the spring to make it fold. Much lighter than gas struts and puts less strain o the panels when closing. You could probably make your own, but I think they were pretty cheap from the source listed on my site.
        Patrol #107
        LSA #005

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        • #5
          I like the gas strut idea! I have them on my windows and baggage door...why didn't I think of this before? Got to figure out how to mount the brackets without having to weld though, everything is all covered and painted.

          Collin Campbell
          Bolivar, MO

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          • #6
            Collin - length required for the strut is easy to determine. Just be sure you get a strut that requires little force (15-25 lbs) to close. Some are so stiff (150 lbs) that they can distort the structure when you go to close. Mark

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            • #7
              What I came up with...15# gas spring. I like it.
              You do not have permission to view this gallery.
              This gallery has 1 photos.

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              • #8
                I'm working on my door and windows on my Patrol. Could you share some info. on your gas spring on your door? (approximate length, open and closed)Since this is a three year old thread is this cylinder been working out? Thanks Kevin

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                • #9
                  Kevin, The gas spring I used is a Suspa part # C16-24162. It is a 15# spring. It seems to work very well, keeps the door from blowing around in the wind. Only negative is I think someone could damage the door if it is abused. (Trying to load passengers who want to use the door for a handhold for instance) So what I did is the "belt" and "suspenders" approach...I added a stop on the wing strut to prevent overpowering the gas strut. I think this stop is a must, whether or not the gas spring is used.
                  Patrol door stop.jpg
                  Collin

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                  • #10
                    Thank you Colin. Very helpful info. Agree on the strut door stop. Another question if you don't mind. On your Patrol how close does the left side rudder cable come as it passes over the flap handle pivot ? All my parts are built to plan but in mock up it sure seems close. Thanks. Kevin

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                    • #11
                      Kevin, I went out to the hangar and took a few pictures of the flap handle pivot/rudder cable intersection. Hope this helps, maybe I should have posted these under another topic, but wanted to be sure I answered your question here. The most critical area for clearance for me was at the flap horn where the cable attaches...very tight there! I used a swaged fitting. (MS20667 fork end as they are not as wide as a cable shackle...by the way this same fitting works well on the flap arms at the wing root also) Collin

                      1127161421.jpg1127161422.jpg1127161422a.jpg1127161424.jpg

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                      • Patrol28
                        Patrol28 commented
                        Editing a comment
                        Thank you Collin, those pics help a bunch.

                    • #12
                      Colin, The gas spring for your cabin door consist of numerous parts, included the gas spring itself, one ball joint on each end of the gas spring, each ball joint has a ball stud, and a housing that the stud fits into. In addition each stud is mounted onto a bracket of some kind. How much of the hardware was provided by the manufacturer?
                      Brooks Cone
                      Southeast Michigan
                      Patrol #303, Kit build

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                      • #13
                        Kevin, you are right, many parts to the complete installation. I purchased the springs at McMaster-Carr. (their website is a great place to shop for hard to find hardware items!) They have a lot of different fittings for the gas springs, the ball studs and the brackets. Also they list the technical details of the springs themselves. Enjoy! Collin

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                        • #14
                          I found it Colin, and added it to my kit building document! Thanks so much.

                          Brooks
                          Brooks Cone
                          Southeast Michigan
                          Patrol #303, Kit build

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                          • #15
                            Collin, would you be able to get some photos of your window lift struts? I finished all the door hardware and at the last of my head scratching to complete the windows before painting. I have checked out McMaster-Carr's web site. Would you be able to share what the strut dimensions are or what model you used, along with the force/poundage required to lift the window? I don't have the plexi yet are unable to determine the weight.
                            Thanks
                            Steve P203

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                            • Mark Goldberg
                              Mark Goldberg commented
                              Editing a comment
                              My experience is very low pressure struts are best. MG
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