IO360 angle valve

[ttibc@msn.com]

I have a io360 a3b6 and would like some insight into issues related to installation of an angle valve engine and cowling, size, fit difficulty, etc.
Thanks.
Bill

[ttibc@msn.com]

Installation is for a Patrol

[Mark Goldberg]

The angle valve cylinders are wider than the parallel valve cylinders. So the line between the nose bowl and the firewall will need to have "bumps" on it for the front cylinders if you want to use angle valve cylinders. Also around 24 lbs heavier than parallel valve cylinders. Mark

[ttibc@msn.com]

Thanks Mark for the quick response.
Are there people that have gone this route?
Bill

[Steve W]

I have an angle valve engine in my Patrol. Bob and several others did their best to talk me out of it. I felt their appeal not to do it when I got into it. It will say however it’s nice to leave the strip today, 2000’ elevation and call level at 6.5 and still be well within the 5 mile ring. It’s tight but I did it without any bumps added to the cowling.
There are a number of things you will have to do differently and expend a huge amount of time to perfect it.

[Steve W]

I will add that the bare angle valve engine with counter balanced weights was 263 lbs. I used a light weight starter, alternator, carb, small mags, gov and if memory serves me correct, was around 293 assembled without exhaust and baffling. I believe a Superior 360 parallel is around 283??

[Bcone1381]

I don't want to hijack Bill's question. So maybe we can confine answers to my questions below to 'comments'.

Steve; Thats for sharing. Specific data and information like this improves this sight.

I take it your 263 lb weight is an actual reading from a scale? I have a Parallel Valve IO-360 that Bob thought was about 270 bare. I want to weigh it though. What decisions did you make to keep your engine weight down? Did you use a Narrow Deck case (aka standard deck case)?

Counter balanced cranks add to the weight, but it seems to me like are necessary to avoid harmonic vibration issues in the Angle Valve 360CI engines.

[Steve W]

From what I understand, there was a specific model of the 0-360 that weighed about 265 lbs but if you look at the majority of other models, they run 280 plus. I see the Superior is now up to 288-297?
I bought a not too expensive drop scale that would cover the 2-400 lb area. I weigh a constant 200 lbs dressed with sneakers and that was accurate when I hung myself off the scale. The engine with the angle valve cylinders, balance weighs installed on shaft, up draft sump and accessory case weighed 263 lbs on these scales. The case is a newer wide deck Superior model which I suspect is heavier than the original Lycoming which developed a crack. I swapped out the 1200 series mags for S20's. Other than that, I used what I could to drop any weight down like light starters and alternator etc. My end weight in the 290's was merely adding each part to the bare number. This does not reflect, plugs, wires, HP tubing from gov etc. Whether it was all that accurate, I really can't say.

Using a counter balanced shaft, from what I read, does cut down on the harmonic issues with certain props. I have a setup, McCauley hub and WhirlWind blades, that has no vibration analysis so just adds a bit more "peace of mind" when operating at the forbidden RPM's. The setup is quite smooth considering I haven't had the prop balanced yet.
Just a couple of pictures for Bill. I have a lot more but does show some of the complexity for the front cylinder baffling.

[schu]

I see no reason why it wouldn't work with a light prop. My bud has a 200hp husky with the IO-360 angle engine. They just used an MT prop and the CG ended up being more or less the same.

[ttibc@msn.com]

Steve,
Thanks for the pics, I've been out of the service area for a few days. If I had a Bearhawk Patrol flying I'd be out of the service area a lot more.
Pondering the next move, I jumped on this engine core because of the price without realizing that it represented some challenges and I wanted to do the cowling before it went to the shop.
I appreciate everyone's input.
Bill

[Steve W]

Bill, if 180hp is enough, if the bottom end is in decent shape and you want to build light, leave the weights off the crank and get yourself four new parallel cylinders after reworking the block. Would have to swap out the sump and tubes to what ever you decide to use; carb or FI. Cylinders are cheap vs reworking and new parts. If it has the big mags, 1200’s, most OH shops will swap them out for rebuilt S4’s. Their core value is quite good. Some engine shops value the complete injection system too so usually are willing to swap out for carb, sump, tubes if you want to go that route.