Matco park brake mounting and flexible brake line install

[Pbruce]

I am considering mounting the park brake in the position shown (under the mounting plate and floorboard though). Only the control arm would stick up above the floor. This eliminates the need for a control cable. Has anyone done this? Pros/cons?

Also, I’m going with dual brakes using 4 master cylinders and individual reservoirs on the front ones. Since some flexible lines are required anyway, I’m going with all flex. (Except maybe not enclosed in the gear legs). Anyway, it’s a fair amount of spaghetti. If anyone else’s has done this I’d love to hear about how they mounted the lines and especially see any photos. Thanks in advance.

[gregc]

I took a similar approach on my Companion, including Cessna type reservoirs on the master cylinders. I used a cable but just having the arm stick up through the floor could work if you can find the right position. I may have adjusted the design a little after I took this picture but it should be close - I'll look for more recent photo. Hope this helps.

IMG_1737.jpg

[Pbruce]

Thanks Greg. Stupid question follows: which side of the park brake is “in” and which is “out”? I’m not sure why one end has those long brass nuts either.

[gregc]

The brass nuts are on the "out"or ¨flow to brake" side. Take a look at the attached Matco drawing. If you don' t use a cable, you may want to come up with some way to make sure that you don't accidentally bump the lever into the transition or closed range.
mastercylinder24a.pdf

[Pbruce]

Thanks for the drawing. Good idea on a “bump lock”

[Ryan Koeneke]

I hope no one comes up with a good idea not to put it where you had it... cuz that's where I decided to put mine on my model 5 build.

I put mine on the firewall side of the fuel selector so hopefully the fuel selector will keep me from kicking/bending the push rod that activates/disengages the parking brake. Time will tell if that is actually effective or not.

Thanks for mentioning the bump lock, I'll add that to the list of things to figure out.

[alaskabearhawk]

FWIW, mine is a Parker valve from some Beechcraft. I put it below the floor and have a push/pull cable with a locking knob under the center of the instrument panel. It doesn't look like it from the photo, but there is plenty of clearance between the floorboard and the actuating lever.

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[Pbruce]

I was going to buy the pre-made lines from Pegasus, a little long for fudge factor and to allow for rudder pedal/brake pedal movement. Looks like you guys are using something similar. Can you confirm that the fitting into the Gerdes master cylinder is a 1/8” NPT transitioning to a male AN3 flared compression fitting? In other words, the female steel line fittings attach to the (male) flared AN3? Also, are those fittings on the steel hoses free to turn once they are tightened?

[gregc]

Yes, 1/8 NTP to AN3 adapters. Personally I would not use swivel ends on the hoses. You don´t need them and high quality swivels that won't leak are pricey. Based in your hose routing, you may want 45 or even 90 degree adapters so mocking it all up with plastic tubing or something similar is usually worth the effort.

[alaskabearhawk]

I used AN816-4D straight and AN823-4D 45deg fittings. Once tightened, my steel hose fittings do not turn.