Tweet
I plan to put this BH5 on floats in salt water operations. I am thinking of using this primer. Apply with a brush to the internal wings parts then rivet it all together? Looking for some input from more experienced builders. I upload a PDF to review.
-
-
The data sheet says that brush is only for touch up. It appears that spray is the recommended process. It is a 2 part product that may do everything but it is one that a person mixes the zinc powder into that requires an air driven mixer. For spraying that may be fun as the consistency would have to right on as . The data sheet speaks only to steel so that is another question. It may be worth talking to a tech person at Sherwin WIlliams. Endura Manufacturing in Edmonton make epoxy based zinc primers and one of their technical people may recommend a good product. Epoxy is a good start if it is non porous product so that you get the sacrificial benefit of the zinc component plus if it is non porous then it would also encapsulate the parts. Endura make coatings that can be used over fabric and metal that is quality at a lower cost. The rest of the Endura products for aircraft in the conversation. We discovered it too late or we likely would have gone with some of the Endura products including the urethanes. It is available through one of our auto supply stores in our small corner of Ontario and we could have saved about half our painting costs from shipping paint. It should be available through a supplier in your region. https://www.endurapaint.com/wp-conte...ER_TDS_1.6.pdf
I mention non porous as I am a member on old car site and have learned that some epoxy primers can be porous which I did not expect. I thought it all was direct to metal primer that was impervious. The porous primers are like the old red oxide primers used in days of old where moisture would eventually start rust if it did not get top coated. There are schools of thought on corrosion control for airplanes that lean on zinc primers and the other is total encapsulation. If Endura epoxy does both then it is a win and a win.
Hope that is some help if not that it gets you pointed in a better direction.
GlennLast edited by Glenn Patterson; 01-13-2021, 08:57 PM. -
I found that Deft primer works extremely well. The best place to purchase it is on eBay. Boeing uses it and when it gets near the expiration date they put on EBay.
The mixture rate is 2 parts paint 1 part activator and 150% water. Sprays very good and cleanup is with water.Comment
-
I've read that there is no such thing as a non-porous primer but that may not be totally true. That being said, a good two part expoxy primer should provide the protection you need. Whatever you use, I would recommend spraying it as it is impossible to get an even application using a brush.Last edited by rodsmith; 01-14-2021, 02:06 PM.Comment
-
Search"Primer". If thats not enough, go to Vans Airforce
Gerry
Patrol #30Comment
-
I have a 40 Ford that I am going to drag out and get started on. The reason I suggested asking if the primer is porous or not is that some of the automotive epoxy primers are non porous. The consensus of those on my favorite old car site is to use an epoxy primer that seals and primes before applying high build primers or fillers. Water can't get under the filler or hi build the same as with the porous primers. Endura makes a wide range of coatings for industrial applications and may have something that works. I talked to their tech rep years ago and they had urethanes for aircraft fabric & aluminum. If Endura has a suitable epoxy primer & it is available through a local supplier then alone that may save on shipping. Worth a call or email. Make sure that you read the MSDS or SDS safety data for the precautions on whatever product is used.
Comment
-
You may want to purchase Eric Newron's Bearhawk builders manual, wing edition. It's loaded with valuable insite.
Gerry
Patrol #30Comment
-
I will have a look at it!Last edited by Sir Newton; 01-18-2021, 09:19 PM.
-
-
Endura primer EP-2C Sealer CF is what I have decided on. I was advised by a 30yr application professional. The only difference between this primer & the certified product line is simply chain of custody & a product code that can be entered into a air frame log book.
Cheerios All!You do not have permission to view this gallery.
This gallery has 1 photos.Comment
-
Michel Roy in Gatineau used Endura products on his 4pl Bearhawk and it is spectacular. The finish is shiny and smooth and the colour are vibrant. I am still waffling between Stewarts and Endura. I like the water clean-up/no HAZMAT suit perks of Stewarts but it is much harder to get a perfect finish out of it.
Where did you get your primer? I bought a little of the Endura primer paint a couple of years ago to paint some steel but I recall it was a PITA to find a supplier... -
Hello Michel Roy, There is an Endura store front in our city. It is cash a carry for me. The Endura website has dealer information on it. Now weather it is up to date information? If not just call them direct, great group always answer the phone & you can place an order with them directly over the phone.
Yes, Endura basically paints itself all you have to be able to do is get the sticky side of the paint down. 100% it is deadly stuff to work with! I am going to use a brush on the internal wing parts. Spraying this paint is a bit of a big deal. A guy needs to set up a temp paint booth with some sort of filtration system on the venting air. imo I will cross that bridge when I come to it.Last edited by Sir Newton; 01-19-2021, 11:06 AM. -
Thanks for the info. I have a Citation HVLP system with hoods and the whole deal that I used to paint my RV-8 in Imron years ago. It was a pain to get all suited up to paint and it was so bulky and uncomfortable. But, given the alternative the discomfort was really minor.
Mark
-
-
This is some documentation on the EP-2C PrimerComment
-
I've used Akzo Nobel Epoxy primer on my RV6 and RV4. It's impervious to just about everything!Comment
-
For perspective, I measured some spar part thicknesses before and after priming. Spar web before .0321 after .0338, capstrip before .1247 after .1257, spacer bar before .0618 after .0631. Other parts were similar The spar web primer is too thick but I did the best I could with what I had. I used an airbrush, painted outside in the summer. With what I know now, I could have done a little better but I'm satisfied the parts are well protected in a salt environment. If you can do better with a brush have at it. Primer is Stits EP-420. I used about a quart and 1/4 or so for all the AL wing parts less the ribs, rib stiffeners and skins. I used the standard Bonderite C-IC 33 etch and Alodine 1201 prep. Not sure how brushed fay surfaces would work out. Good luck.
Gerry
Patrol #30Comment
-
You will save a lot with the Endura on the product costs by the end of your project and save a lot avoiding shipping. Endura is quality and tough as nails. We were near the end when we realized what we missed out on. Paint is heavy that makes shipping very expensive direct to a builder. Waterborne products can only be shipped when there is no risk of freezing which is hard in Canada now. The Endura EP-2C uses diisocyanate in the hardener that even brushed on still needs to be treated with respect. The diisocycnates will still be gassing out of the product as it is applied and dries. It is best to exhaust the fumes clear of a work space and take the precautions to be safe. ( Waterborne Urethanes use diisocyanate based hardeners with all the same hazards.)
https://www.endurapaint.com/wp-conte...SDS_NA_1.1.pdfComment
-
Remember reading somewhere you can freeze your un used batch of epoxy..for future use. has anyone else heard this?... I assume if it’s water based that would not be possibleComment
Comment