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  • #31
    What about using quarter piece of plywood for the temp plate? Might that work instead?

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    • #32
      How about this for an idea. I traced this from cardboard to Masonite. With my dads help. Also I created a FB page for the build. Just look up Bearhawk 1227
      Last edited by MNBenny; 01-08-2017, 12:44 PM.

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      • #33
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        This gallery has 1 photos.

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        • #34
          Originally posted by MNBenny View Post
          Would AS&S MDF? Or would a place like Menards or Mills Fleet sell MDF? Also what thickness do I need?
          Menards is a fine place to get MDF (medium density fiberboard). It's going to be with the sheet goods by the plywood, particle board, and similar. Probably about $35-40 a sheet if memory serves me correctly.
          Christopher Owens
          Bearhawk 4-Place Scratch Built, Plans 991
          Bearhawk Patrol Scratch Built, Plans P313
          Germantown, Wisconsin, USA

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          • #35
            Originally posted by MNBenny View Post
            MOrning All,

            Chris this going to sound insanely dumb that I ask this so sorry in advance.......When you cut the ribs out from the plans did you cut right on the line, and for the Aileron pocket rib did you leave the dashed line on the form block? It didn't look like it to me, but maybe I have to look again. Also I still can't find the bearhawk manuals. I bought them and downloaded them but can't find them. Will have to check my laptop once,

            thank you in advance for the bandwidth.
            Hi Benny,

            I made a photocopy of that page of the plans (so I didn't have to cut up my expensive plans) and then measured to make sure that the stayed in scale (some copiers will slightly shrink or enlarge the source material). Then I cut them out to the line and glued them to a piece of MDF. After that, I sand up to the line, or maybe just until the line disappears (but no further). You'll want to make sure you have enough flange to rivet through after they are bent.

            ~Chris
            Christopher Owens
            Bearhawk 4-Place Scratch Built, Plans 991
            Bearhawk Patrol Scratch Built, Plans P313
            Germantown, Wisconsin, USA

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            • #36
              Originally posted by MNBenny View Post
              Didn't someone say they traced there's to aluminum? I'm going try that. See what happens also what are people's thoughts on increasing the size of the flange? The plans say (I think 9/16) what about full inch or so?
              I think I recall reading that. Mainly so that they have a master form to work with.

              Having a full inch of flange is probably fine, but it adds weight. Maybe compromise on 3/4"?
              Christopher Owens
              Bearhawk 4-Place Scratch Built, Plans 991
              Bearhawk Patrol Scratch Built, Plans P313
              Germantown, Wisconsin, USA

              Comment


              • #37
                Originally posted by MNBenny View Post
                What about using quarter piece of plywood for the temp plate? Might that work instead?
                Plywood is okay. The only reason I shy'd away from it is because it tends to splinter on the edges when it's cut, routed, or sanded, leaving you with a less-than-perfect edge. I think that's why most folks use MDF for forms (myself included). MDF is very stable, it doesn't change dimensions very much with temperature and humidity, it's incredibly easy to cut, sand, and route, and aside from a fair amount of sawdust, you can do very precision things with it that you can't do with other lumber types. It gets high marks from me as the material of choice to use for building routing patterns. If you have an option, I'd certainly stay away from all other lumber types for the routing forms and stick with MDF unless you have no other option.
                Christopher Owens
                Bearhawk 4-Place Scratch Built, Plans 991
                Bearhawk Patrol Scratch Built, Plans P313
                Germantown, Wisconsin, USA

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                • #38


                  That looks like a piece of particle-board shelving material to me up in post #33. Is that a correct observation? Particle board isn't bad, you have to have very sharp cutting tools when working with it. It tends to get "crumby" when you work with it because of the large wood particles that are used to make it. I probably wouldn't choose it as my first material, but it could work in a pinch. If I had my choice, I'd stick with MDF.
                  Christopher Owens
                  Bearhawk 4-Place Scratch Built, Plans 991
                  Bearhawk Patrol Scratch Built, Plans P313
                  Germantown, Wisconsin, USA

                  Comment


                  • #39
                    Originally posted by MNBenny View Post
                    How about this for an idea. I traced this from cardboard to Masonite. With my dads help. Also I created a FB page for the build. Just look up Bearhawk 1227
                    Masonite (tempered hard board) typically comes in thicknesses up to 1/4", and doesn't really provide a lot of surface to run a router bit bearing against. It also tends to fray when cut or worked. Probably wouldn't be my first choice of material. I'd stick with MDF.
                    Christopher Owens
                    Bearhawk 4-Place Scratch Built, Plans 991
                    Bearhawk Patrol Scratch Built, Plans P313
                    Germantown, Wisconsin, USA

                    Comment


                    • #40
                      Hi Chris thank you for that. It's the best I have right now. Can't buy anything until the 15th. I'm hoping dad will get a long bit and materials to build the router table tomorrow when it warms up.

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                      • #41
                        Chris which router bit are you using again? Can you give me a link to lowes? Just want to show dad what you are using so he knows what to get

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                        • #42
                          How many ribs could you get cut with that half inch router bit Chris?

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                          • #43


                            After some practice, I was able to do around ten at a time. I have a big 1/2" shank router, though. Tailor your sheet count to your available router.
                            Christopher Owens
                            Bearhawk 4-Place Scratch Built, Plans 991
                            Bearhawk Patrol Scratch Built, Plans P313
                            Germantown, Wisconsin, USA

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                            • Chris In Milwaukee
                              Chris In Milwaukee commented
                              Editing a comment
                              Lucky I guess. The router bit really was magical.

                            • Deftone
                              Deftone commented
                              Editing a comment
                              I bought the router bit you suggested, hoping to give it some use this week.

                            • Chris In Milwaukee
                              Chris In Milwaukee commented
                              Editing a comment
                              Hold on tight, go slow and steady :-) Like you described, if you get complacent, it can get the best of you. How many HP is your router?

                          • #44
                            I was trying to think how Masonite would come into play in the build process. Looking at the shelving, I put two and two together, and think you're talking about Melamine . Now my brain is in a good place again.
                            Christopher Owens
                            Bearhawk 4-Place Scratch Built, Plans 991
                            Bearhawk Patrol Scratch Built, Plans P313
                            Germantown, Wisconsin, USA

                            Comment


                            • #45
                              It's the best I can do. I just am working with very limited stuff this the best I can do unless I start pulling from my flight training money, and I certainly don't want to do that.

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