Finally getting around to installing these pieces on the wing. I initially tried to force the flat pieces into a curve and clecoed them to the pocket ribs. The pieces were stiff enough that even with everything clecoed together tight against the pocket ribs,the skins were pushing the top wing skin up at the trailing edge, certainly didn't want to rivet it together that way. I have a 30" 3 in 1 sheet metal machine that I bought used primarily for the shear. Had to learn how to use the slip roll. I don't think the previous owner had ever used the roll as I couldn't turn the bolts that compress the top roller in enough to work (Chinese made). Pulled them out and used a tap to clean the holes up. Was able to match the curvature of the pocket ribs with no problem. 1 of the pieces for each wing is 40" so I had to find a machine shop with a longer slip roll. I took the longer pieces in with a short one I had rolled for them to match the curve. Took them 5 minutes and charged me $10. The flange at the upper skin had too much angle so I flattened the angle using the shoe on my sheet metal brake. When I put everything back together the top skin layed flat instead of being pushed up. The flange at the top skin stuck out about 1/4" from the wing skin so I trimmed it to match. This is an older wing kit so not sure these pieces are still the same. In the kit they were made from .025 instead of .020 shown on the plans.
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Did you make the skin from scratch? Did you have it primed before applying the roller to it?
My EAA chapter has an old slip roller and I used it to help form the curvature in my Boot Cowl Skins. I stopped fighting with the skins after I applied the right curvature. Its such a nice tool to have available.Last edited by Bcone1381; 04-09-2018, 04:17 PM.Brooks Cone
Southeast Michigan
Patrol #303, Kit build
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