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  • Technical Drawings

    As I work my way through my Patrol kit I am creating isometric drawings of various assemblies. These are detailed exploded view drawings with complete parts call out similar to the quality you would get in a VANS kit in fact I use the same CAD software that they do. So far I have completed drawings for the Eric Newton tailwheel, landing gear, rudder pedal assembly, shock struts, trim system and elevator system. All of these are for the Patrol but there would be cross talk with the 4 place design. I also have completed step by step assembly manuals for the rudder pedals and shock struts which are good starting points for the new kit builder. These are not officially endorsed by AviPro or R&B aircraft but will provide a tremendous insight in how the airplane goes together. PM me if you have an interest.
    Last edited by spinningwrench; 12-06-2018, 05:31 PM.

  • #2
    I would be very interested in an exploded view of the 4 place tailwheel assembly and if there are any instructions for servicing it, especially tightening tips/torque values, etc.

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    • #3
      If it's one of Eric Newtons tail wheels, send him an email. He replied to me overnight and I got the full details and drawings to enable a full service.



      Edit: oops, I didnt read the original post, apologies.
      Last edited by Nev; 11-30-2024, 01:49 PM.
      Nev Bailey
      Christchurch, NZ

      BearhawkBlog.com - Safety & Maintenance Notes
      YouTube - Build and flying channel
      Builders Log - We build planes

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      • #4
        Bob sells a set of plans for the tailwheel which are very detailed, and would be used to create the assembly in a machine shop. Bruce (above) makes his own drawings for several Bearhawk parts and the ones that I have seen are also good.

        There are not any part numbers but thankfully there also are not many parts.

        I find that the most maintenance-intensive area is the locking pin. It should be routinely removed, lubricated, and inspected. My personal arbitrary goal is every 50 hours, or yearly, whichever comes first. Look for any burs that need to be smoothed. There is a small bolt threaded into the locking pin that I have bent and broken at times. I keep a spare for all of those parts.

        There is a big bolt on top which can ve torqued via standard 43.13 values. The axle should be tightened to preload the bearings, like any other wheel. If you have a brass friction bolt in the middle of the tailwheel body (probably not, if it is from 2011) it is tightened as to drag lightly on the king pin.

        I use minimal grease on the king pin but maximum grease on the locking pin and its tunnel. Recently I have started packing the locking pin tube fully with grease, to keep nesting insects from taking dirt into that area.

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