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What is the general consensus on treating the formers before riveting in place and covering? Prime and Paint, just prime, just flayed surfaces, don't worry about it? Let's hear your opinion!
Dave from Maine
Dave from Maine
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Don't worry about it. Just put on anti-chafe tape and cover. -
I'm not trying to start a "Primers War" (those of you who frequent the Vans Forums know of what I speak
) but if you are in any kind of environment where there is humidity, and especially salt water/air, I would consider Scotchbriting any mating surfaces and squirting some self-etch primer in there. In Canada, we have to do this to get through our inspections. It is VERY important if the two surfaces are different metals, but I think it is worth the five minutes it takes to do it with the ScotchBrite pad and rattle can of self-etch primer. Just scuff the flange of the former and the narrow area where it will mate with the skin, clean it off (I use Naptha/Coleman stove fluid ) and give those areas a quick spray.
Just my $0.02-------------------
Mark
Bearhawk 4A #1078 C-GPFG (Scratch built- in final assembly)
Maule M5-235C C-GJFK (Sold)
RV-8 C-GURV (Sold)Comment
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Mark, understand about "primer wars"...! The fuselage tubes are all epoxy primed and painted with the quickbuild kits so was kind of in the same mindset as Alaskabearhawk no untreated metal to metal except rivets, Certainly would do any metal to metal untreated contact surfaces with at least a self-etching primer. How about if one mating surface is painted? That's the answer I seek! LOL And to be clear, I'm talking about the formers, not even considering doing the stringers
Dave from Maine -
Hi Dave
The whole purpose of the primer in this case is to prevent moisture from wicking between two untreated surfaces and getting trapped in there causing corrosion. If one of the surfaces is already painted, I personally don't see a need to prime the either. Keep in mind I am not a metallurgist nor do I play one on TV...
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