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Drilling Control Column/Rudder Pedals

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  • Drilling Control Column/Rudder Pedals

    I am going to be drilling these soon. While I strive for perfection, how close is good enough? Drilling holes in steel exactly where I want them still eludes me a little bit.

    Is having them 1/8" off going to present any problem? What is they are each an 1/8" off in opposite directions, so there is 1/4" difference between the 2 sides?

    I won't lie, I am pretty nervous about drilling these 3/16" holes.

    Any tips are appreciated.

  • #2
    DO you have any tubing you can practice on? If not, get a bargin bag of it from Spruce. It was a wise purchase that I made 8 years ago, and I use the stuff al the time.
    Bargain Bag 4130 Tubing Starter Kit - An assortment of 4130 tubing, rod and bar in short lengths to practice welding. At least 20 ft. of tubing in assorted sizes and wall thicknesses. Furnished subject to availability of cutoffs.


    This is the Patrol Rudder Pedal. There are two holes to drill. One for lubrication. One for the cotterpin that will hold the axel. I would center punch the cotter pin location. Then apply the drill to it and watch it. 3X reading glasses really help to see if the drill bit starts to move off target. I would also match drill the outer tube and the inner axel at the same time.

    Drill Bits. Buy them a dozen at a time for the sizes that are common. (#40, #30, #21, 3/32, 1/8, 3/16, 1/4, 9/64 come to mind) Colbalt Jobber bits from Panamerican tool are my goto. If the drill starts to move on you it may be due to a dull bit. Question any bit that gets dropped onto concrete. I put used ones in a zip lock and use them for fiberglas. I would drill one side then pause, try to get the bit centered on the other side of the tube, then drill it on thru. There is a jig for drilling tubing. I suspect it would not fit unless the tube in on your bench. Look into them though and let us know how it goes. You'll do fine. If you screw up a hole, you'll be the first one.
    Screenshot 2025-03-20 at 7.48.04 PM.png
    Last edited by Bcone1381; 03-20-2025, 07:06 PM.
    Brooks Cone
    Southeast Michigan
    Patrol #303, Kit build

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    • TJ_Slice
      TJ_Slice commented
      Editing a comment
      The 5 pedals look quite a bit different. It turned out to be easier than I thought it would be.

  • #3
    What holes are you talking about? Can you share a photo or drawing?

    Comment


    • TJ_Slice
      TJ_Slice commented
      Editing a comment
      They are match drilled 3/16" holes to mount the assemblies to the fuselage.

  • #4
    Are you center punching your holes before drilling?

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    • TJ_Slice
      TJ_Slice commented
      Editing a comment
      I am for the stringer tabs. I used a jig for the door former tabs.

  • #5
    I stared with the rudder pedals.. it turned out not to be a bid deal. I used some vice grips padded with rubber to hold the assemblies in place, and match drilled them. The rudder pedals came out perfect. The key was getting them clamped firmly in place before you drill them. The control column assembly is a little more awkward to clamp due to the shape of the mounting plates. I am going to do that one tomorrow.

    Part of this whole process is learning that there is not really much you can screw up that hasn't been done before by someone. There is almost always a fix. For the steel mounting plates, I guess you could always weld the hole closed and re-drill them.
    Last edited by TJ_Slice; 03-20-2025, 09:58 PM.

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    • #6
      I ended up purchasing a couple of needle nose vise grip type pliers to hold the control column assembly in place while I drilled. That worked well for me.

      I am happy with the result.

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