BBQ ribs are great, but wing ribs are pretty cool, too.
Getting the aft ribs rough cut.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Getting the aft ribs rough cut.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Having a Rib Party
- Thread starter Chris In Wisconsin
- Start date
(Untitled)
Stack of noses, stack of afters (flap, aileron)
Too bad these things are lethal! It'd make a nice necklace.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Stack of noses, stack of afters (flap, aileron)
Too bad these things are lethal! It'd make a nice necklace.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
(Untitled)
More and more ribs. While I applaud the inventors of the electric shear, I pray I don't have tendinitis when I'm finished! About 2/3 done, methinks, with rough cuts.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
More and more ribs. While I applaud the inventors of the electric shear, I pray I don't have tendinitis when I'm finished! About 2/3 done, methinks, with rough cuts.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Mine came from TW Metals. May have originated in Chicago, but it's been a while, so not sure.
(Untitled)
Done! All rough cut plus two extra of everything. You just never know...
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Done! All rough cut plus two extra of everything. You just never know...
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Routed my first collection of nose ribs. I have a really tall laminate bit, so can do a lot at once. This round I did 12. No problems at all.
Bolted them all together:
Drill the pilot holes for the lighteners:
Cut off the excess on the bandsaw:
Put up a tent to contain the flak (learned my lesson before):
Got myself sealed up, lest I find metal in unfriendly places:
Then got busy with the router. Make sure you've got a climbing cut going, else it's going to chatter all over the place:
Success!:
Clean as a whistle, no deburring really needed:
Round one complete. Two more to go on nose ribs:
And, as bonus, you come out of it all sparkly for Christmas spirit. Or I'm a vampire. Not sure which.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Bolted them all together:
Drill the pilot holes for the lighteners:
Cut off the excess on the bandsaw:
Put up a tent to contain the flak (learned my lesson before):
Got myself sealed up, lest I find metal in unfriendly places:
Then got busy with the router. Make sure you've got a climbing cut going, else it's going to chatter all over the place:
Success!:
Clean as a whistle, no deburring really needed:
Round one complete. Two more to go on nose ribs:
And, as bonus, you come out of it all sparkly for Christmas spirit. Or I'm a vampire. Not sure which.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Last edited:
(Untitled)
Well, shoot. Suffered a setback at the airplane factory tonight. My trusty router of 15 years gave up the ghost while cutting a batch of aluminum. Looks like I'll be asking Santa for a new router. :-(
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Well, shoot. Suffered a setback at the airplane factory tonight. My trusty router of 15 years gave up the ghost while cutting a batch of aluminum. Looks like I'll be asking Santa for a new router. :-(
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
(Untitled)
Sad moments don't last long (with the best of luck), and my sad moment is over with the arrival of my new router! And, of course, the whatever-you-do-to-kill-it-we'll-replace-it plan!
Back to the adventure (and with fewer sheets of metal stacked up this time).
Old Freud will be sadly missed.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sad moments don't last long (with the best of luck), and my sad moment is over with the arrival of my new router! And, of course, the whatever-you-do-to-kill-it-we'll-replace-it plan!
Back to the adventure (and with fewer sheets of metal stacked up this time).
Old Freud will be sadly missed.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Last edited:
(Untitled)
Replaced my old dead Freud router with a new Bosch, and of course the old router plate didn't fit. So needed a new one of those, too! Figures. Now the rig is back in place and ready to work.
Finished the false ribs (the ones that took the life of my beloved Freud), and decided to take it easy on this one. I only cut half as many blanks this time around. Also finished the blanks for the aileron and flap noses as well. Not a bad night, all around.
Next round, aileron pocket ribs, and then centers.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Replaced my old dead Freud router with a new Bosch, and of course the old router plate didn't fit. So needed a new one of those, too! Figures. Now the rig is back in place and ready to work.
Finished the false ribs (the ones that took the life of my beloved Freud), and decided to take it easy on this one. I only cut half as many blanks this time around. Also finished the blanks for the aileron and flap noses as well. Not a bad night, all around.
Next round, aileron pocket ribs, and then centers.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Short night, but got some more ribs cut out tonight. Pocket ribs and half of the aileron ribs as well. Onward!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
patrickh99
Senior Moment
Usually router life is dramatically shortened due to aluminum shavings getting into parts of the router where they should not be, and they diligently work to release the 'magic smoke'.
Some suggestions to improve your router's life:
- put a small metal disk between the cutter and collet to help keep the shavings from going through the router.
- use a close-fitting insert on your router plate
- mount a vacuum hose near the router bit to collect as many shavings as possible.
Looks like you are making good progress. Keep it up!
Patrick
Some suggestions to improve your router's life:
- put a small metal disk between the cutter and collet to help keep the shavings from going through the router.
- use a close-fitting insert on your router plate
- mount a vacuum hose near the router bit to collect as many shavings as possible.
Looks like you are making good progress. Keep it up!
Patrick
Thanks for the tips! I may have a guide insert in my bag o' tricks. Reverse it so it faces down, and I'm good to go!
Quiet time in the airplane factory tonight. Lots of parts to deburr!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Cut out the flap ribs last night. Things are starting to move along again after traveling for work last week.
Had some friends over helping last night. One wanted to give the router a go, and he did a good job. But, he got in a hurry on the last batch of ribs (six or so), and the router got away from him and started to chatter. Another reason to make sure you're using a climbing cut, moving slowly, and keeping a firm hand on the routing jig!
I was able to clean it up with a sanding drum in my drill press, but with it being only six ribs, it's easy enough to make new ones. So I think I'll do that and keep these for backups, just in case.
Also added a new friend to the building team, and he's very excited to learn about the process. He recently finished university, earned his commercial ticket this past fall, and is working in the flight department of a local business. He's never seen this end of aircraft, so I'm happy to help build his experience on this side of the community!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Had some friends over helping last night. One wanted to give the router a go, and he did a good job. But, he got in a hurry on the last batch of ribs (six or so), and the router got away from him and started to chatter. Another reason to make sure you're using a climbing cut, moving slowly, and keeping a firm hand on the routing jig!
I was able to clean it up with a sanding drum in my drill press, but with it being only six ribs, it's easy enough to make new ones. So I think I'll do that and keep these for backups, just in case.
Also added a new friend to the building team, and he's very excited to learn about the process. He recently finished university, earned his commercial ticket this past fall, and is working in the flight department of a local business. He's never seen this end of aircraft, so I'm happy to help build his experience on this side of the community!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Last edited:
Rebuilt the few damaged flap ribs, and they turned out great.
As was suggested earlier, I did have a problem with metal shavings getting into the router. This particular router has a contact strip that runs up and down the motor body that connects to the handle switch when the motor slides up and own the base. Well, they got in there and shorted out the switch and it wouldn't turn on.
I removed the motor from the base, blew it out, and life was good again. Now I'm definitely inspired to get that filler plate in there as previously suggested.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
As was suggested earlier, I did have a problem with metal shavings getting into the router. This particular router has a contact strip that runs up and down the motor body that connects to the handle switch when the motor slides up and own the base. Well, they got in there and shorted out the switch and it wouldn't turn on.
I removed the motor from the base, blew it out, and life was good again. Now I'm definitely inspired to get that filler plate in there as previously suggested.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Last edited:
N3UW
Patrol Scratch Builder
Chris....you might want to reconsider the use of those loose gloves. In wood working loose clothing that can get caught in the blades is a safety no-no. The problem is those gloves could get caught in the router bit and pull your hand into the bit / blade. You should consider some double thick latex gloves. They will tear and not pull your hand I to the bit. They will also protect you from hot chips. Also watch those sleeves. tight fitting is better. I used the Venom steel latex gloves from Lowes.
http://www.lowes.com/pd_622083-68591-VEN6025_1z0vjjnZ1z0vsgi__?productId=50370848&pl=1&Ntt=gloves
happy routing but stay safe!!!!
http://www.lowes.com/pd_622083-68591-VEN6025_1z0vjjnZ1z0vsgi__?productId=50370848&pl=1&Ntt=gloves
happy routing but stay safe!!!!
Thanks for the tip! The photo is misleading, actually. The gloves are quite tight. I have a few different sets of gloves that I use while working metal, all from Ansell. The ones in this photo:
http://www.ansell.com/en-US/Products/All/ActivArmr-97-010.aspx
And the other set I'm typically wearing:
http://www.ansell.com/en-US/Products/All/ActivArmr-97-002.aspx
But I definitely understand your point. Fingers and other body parts are very important! In the photo, you'll see my gloves are over my sleeves to keep them out of the way. And the cuffs are buttoned to keep them from flopping around. Also, when routing, my hands are NEVER on the same side of the form that the spinning bit is.
Also, I've switched from safety glasses to full goggles. Definitely a safer option. On a warm day, though, they fog up, so I have to figure out how to deal with that.
http://www.ansell.com/en-US/Products/All/ActivArmr-97-010.aspx
And the other set I'm typically wearing:
http://www.ansell.com/en-US/Products/All/ActivArmr-97-002.aspx
But I definitely understand your point. Fingers and other body parts are very important! In the photo, you'll see my gloves are over my sleeves to keep them out of the way. And the cuffs are buttoned to keep them from flopping around. Also, when routing, my hands are NEVER on the same side of the form that the spinning bit is.
Also, I've switched from safety glasses to full goggles. Definitely a safer option. On a warm day, though, they fog up, so I have to figure out how to deal with that.
Finished the aft ribs and started pre-drilling the center ribs for routing.
New band saw blade made for easy trimming of the excess aluminum. Although using a narrow blade is a stinker because it tends to wander. Perhaps some more tension is in order.
Got them in the router table, and life is good.
Had some more helpers in the shop tonight, doing a fine job with the drill press, as well as general supervision of events (guess which ones are the supervisors).
Now all the centers are drilled and ready for routing:
Have to be mindful, though. The .032" ribs have different aft lightening holes than the .025" ones. There's a separate jig/pattern for that hole. Don't screw up!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
New band saw blade made for easy trimming of the excess aluminum. Although using a narrow blade is a stinker because it tends to wander. Perhaps some more tension is in order.
Got them in the router table, and life is good.
Had some more helpers in the shop tonight, doing a fine job with the drill press, as well as general supervision of events (guess which ones are the supervisors).
Now all the centers are drilled and ready for routing:
Have to be mindful, though. The .032" ribs have different aft lightening holes than the .025" ones. There's a separate jig/pattern for that hole. Don't screw up!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Finished routing the .025" center ribs today, and got about half of the .032" ribs preliminarily routed. The aft hole is different, so when I finish the forward ones, I'll have to jig up for the aft one.
First half of the .032" ribs:
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
First half of the .032" ribs:
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
With the exception of the two full-length ribs (I ran out of MDF for the routing forms), the rib cutting adventure has concluded! I jigged up the aft holes in the .032" center ribs and got them all cut out.
And then I drilled the flap torque tube holes and aileron cable holes one at a time with the Unibit.
I went back and drilled the same two holes for the false ribs behind the fuel tanks as well.
Now, they're all stacked up and ready for deburring. My Scothbrite wheels should be arriving from ACS any day now.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
And then I drilled the flap torque tube holes and aileron cable holes one at a time with the Unibit.
I went back and drilled the same two holes for the false ribs behind the fuel tanks as well.
Now, they're all stacked up and ready for deburring. My Scothbrite wheels should be arriving from ACS any day now.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
An evening of final deburring of the skinny stuff with the new Scothbrite wheels that came in this week. I've never used the skinny ones before. I like them. Although they don't last very long.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Deburrathon 2016 continues. 200 ribs, 4000+ holes big and small.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Deburrmageddon 2016 has finished!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Peter Bishton
Member
Chris impressive production Line for the rib construction. They look very uniform.
Peter
4 place plans # 1134
Peter
4 place plans # 1134
N3UW
Patrol Scratch Builder
Very nice work. Moving along quite well. It is a nice feeling when you do not have to pick out metal shavings from your hair every night.
For deburring the drilled holes I ended up investing in a small cordless screwdriver and an adapter bit from Avery. Really speeds up the process and saves the hand for the thousands and thousands of holes you will have. The cordless screwdrivers turns slow enough to not be aggressive like a drill. Mine was something like 60 rpm. Got mine for $9 from ikea.
For deburring the drilled holes I ended up investing in a small cordless screwdriver and an adapter bit from Avery. Really speeds up the process and saves the hand for the thousands and thousands of holes you will have. The cordless screwdrivers turns slow enough to not be aggressive like a drill. Mine was something like 60 rpm. Got mine for $9 from ikea.
That's a great idea. So many wonderful tips from so many talented builders!
Routers and solid patterns are the key to everything!
The only thing left to do is trim the ribs to account for the spar depth. These ribs were all cut "to the line". The spar calculations are nearly done, so I'll know how much material I need to remove.
Chewie
New member
John, all my screwdrivers are cordless. 
That's a great tip. In fact Ken Scott just did a little write-up in the upcoming issue of Kitplanes on that method, as applied to wing skins. He used a bit from Cleveland tool. I already ordered one. I think those guys are building the LSA. As part of deburring the skins, one novel idea he talked about was using a layer of egg crate foam under the skin so the pressure is easily controlled with the cordless screwdriver, plus all the chips fall into the valleys of the foam and don't muck up the skin.
That's a great tip. In fact Ken Scott just did a little write-up in the upcoming issue of Kitplanes on that method, as applied to wing skins. He used a bit from Cleveland tool. I already ordered one. I think those guys are building the LSA. As part of deburring the skins, one novel idea he talked about was using a layer of egg crate foam under the skin so the pressure is easily controlled with the cordless screwdriver, plus all the chips fall into the valleys of the foam and don't muck up the skin.
Sure thing. Happy to. For reference, this is the same airfoil as the Patrol. It's 15% longer than the stock one, and about 10% taller (that's how the math worked out for the size change).
If you need bigger pics, let me know. Hopefully they're readable.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
If you need bigger pics, let me know. Hopefully they're readable.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I have a varying group of people that come and help me out on Wednesday nights with this project, so I've kept it fairly low-tech so that people have something to do when they visit. I like that the hand tools, like the deburring tools especially, help people to understand that it doesn't take a lot of effort, and that you sometimes have to be gentle. For the kids that occasionally help out, it helps to build their motor skills without boring a hole through a wing rib, too!
I like that the hand tools, like the deburring tools especially, help people to understand that it doesn't take a lot of effort, and that you sometimes have to be gentle. For the kids that occasionally help out, it helps to build their motor skills without boring a hole through a wing rib, too!
N3UW
Patrol Scratch Builder
Chewie,
I like the foam idea. I did use a moving blanket and that seemed to work ok, The problem I have had with carpet and I would also worry with foam is the chips stick to the material and it tends to scratch the aluminum as I slide it on the surface. I do leave the protective coating on as long as I can and only open up a strip where the rivet holes are.
You know.....it may have been Cleveland that I ordered it from and not Avery. Don't remember. I also gave Desertbearhawk one of the ikea screw drivers. The switch finally crapped on on him and he replaced it with a quality unit. You will love the bit. Just use a low rpm tool.
My hanger is starting to get near completion and I can start un boxing the wing. I have a few house projects to do before I can go full speed on the patrol again. I also have to build all new workbenches since it cost a lot more to move them the build them new.
I like the foam idea. I did use a moving blanket and that seemed to work ok, The problem I have had with carpet and I would also worry with foam is the chips stick to the material and it tends to scratch the aluminum as I slide it on the surface. I do leave the protective coating on as long as I can and only open up a strip where the rivet holes are.
You know.....it may have been Cleveland that I ordered it from and not Avery. Don't remember. I also gave Desertbearhawk one of the ikea screw drivers. The switch finally crapped on on him and he replaced it with a quality unit. You will love the bit. Just use a low rpm tool.
My hanger is starting to get near completion and I can start un boxing the wing. I have a few house projects to do before I can go full speed on the patrol again. I also have to build all new workbenches since it cost a lot more to move them the build them new.
It's been a while since I've checked your progress on YouTube. Your wings are assembled now? Now that's progress! I wish I had the luxury of a hangar, but I don't have a need for it just yet. Soon enough, I'm sure!
I trimmed the ribs to length today, which required a bit of massaging of the routing jigs. The nose, center, false, and long aft ribs were all shortened by 1/4". The centers on both ends.
When I first started going down this path, I knew how big the wing cross section was going to be, but I hadn't yet calculated the spar sizes. So to avoid analysis paralysis (you techie types know what I'm talking about), I created the forms "to the line" where the spar web line was on the master wing panel. I finished the spar calculations this week, and trimmed the ribs back to accommodate.
Interestingly, the spars for the Expedition, aside from being longer, use the same size and collection of spar caps that the regular 4-place Bearhawk does (.125" x 1.25"). References tell me that the stiffness of an I-beam increases with the cube of its height. And the Expedition spar is 2" taller than the regular 4-place spar. So it all makes sense. The aft spar caps will be double-stacked, unlike the 4-place which has only one layer. Because there is an extra 10 inches of chord to deal with, the chord-wise moments are going to increase substantially, especially with larger flaps and ailerons.
Because the shear on the main spar is greater at this height and weight, there will be more spreader bars and more frequently, running from the root to the tip, breaking up the shear "boxes" into smaller chunks. More to come on this.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
When I first started going down this path, I knew how big the wing cross section was going to be, but I hadn't yet calculated the spar sizes. So to avoid analysis paralysis (you techie types know what I'm talking about), I created the forms "to the line" where the spar web line was on the master wing panel. I finished the spar calculations this week, and trimmed the ribs back to accommodate.
Interestingly, the spars for the Expedition, aside from being longer, use the same size and collection of spar caps that the regular 4-place Bearhawk does (.125" x 1.25"). References tell me that the stiffness of an I-beam increases with the cube of its height. And the Expedition spar is 2" taller than the regular 4-place spar. So it all makes sense. The aft spar caps will be double-stacked, unlike the 4-place which has only one layer. Because there is an extra 10 inches of chord to deal with, the chord-wise moments are going to increase substantially, especially with larger flaps and ailerons.
Because the shear on the main spar is greater at this height and weight, there will be more spreader bars and more frequently, running from the root to the tip, breaking up the shear "boxes" into smaller chunks. More to come on this.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Last edited:
Routed out the rib routing jigs for flanging the lightening holes today. Getting ready to start bending ribs. My favorite thing!
Also created the hardwood bending form for the edge flanges. Made from solid oak, they'll last a long, long time. I bent a lot of ribs on the last set I created.
The circles you see traced into the top will be routed out on both sides so the lightening hole flanges will have a place to go since they'll be done first. If you remember the last set of ribs I built a while back for the 4-place, I routed notches in the edge of the bending form for the flutes, which I'll pound in with a hammer and the edge of a screwdriver. More to come there.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Also created the hardwood bending form for the edge flanges. Made from solid oak, they'll last a long, long time. I bent a lot of ribs on the last set I created.
The circles you see traced into the top will be routed out on both sides so the lightening hole flanges will have a place to go since they'll be done first. If you remember the last set of ribs I built a while back for the 4-place, I routed notches in the edge of the bending form for the flutes, which I'll pound in with a hammer and the edge of a screwdriver. More to come there.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Gave the first rib a press today to see how the routing went. Had to go a little wider to make sure the flange was wide enough. 12-ton press did an admirable job, but just not enough oomph. Going to replace it with a 20-ton unit tomorrow and hope for better.
I'm lucky to have a friend who's a dairy farmer and he gave me a couple of chunks of cow mat that he uses for his critters' comfort. The price was right (free) and is the perfect density and durability for pressing these ribs. Coupled with a couple sheets of steel and we're in business.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I'm lucky to have a friend who's a dairy farmer and he gave me a couple of chunks of cow mat that he uses for his critters' comfort. The price was right (free) and is the perfect density and durability for pressing these ribs. Coupled with a couple sheets of steel and we're in business.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Last edited:
N3UW
Patrol Scratch Builder
Chris,
The Patrol has been paused since last June. Last summer we moved from Colorado to north of Seattle, I had to spend all summer preparing the house to sell and move. We had a LOT of crap and I needed to organize and get rid of a lot of stuff. in the fall we hired movers to fill up 4 15' storage pods (that was after reducing stuff). I packed up the patrol wing and ribs in wooden crates in the pods. We also had to move my mother-n-law out of her place because she was moving in with us. We then bought a 1910 house and a hanger and a business for my wife (she is a dentist). I have built an office in the hanger and a large storage loft suspended from the ceiling. the nice thing is I go to the hanger every day to work out of the office there. My company is back in Colorado but I work remotely. It is a dream to work out of my hanger. On nice days I pull the plane out and go flying for lunch. The enclosed office was a necessity once I got the first gas bill to heat the hanger to 68deg in the day ($300....ouch). I have started now setting up the wood and aircraft shop. I have to build all new benches because they are cheaper to build than ship. I hope to get back to the patrol this summer. The wing is still in the crate. I will post some photos of the hanger soon. Things are starting to slow down just a bit,
The Patrol has been paused since last June. Last summer we moved from Colorado to north of Seattle, I had to spend all summer preparing the house to sell and move. We had a LOT of crap and I needed to organize and get rid of a lot of stuff. in the fall we hired movers to fill up 4 15' storage pods (that was after reducing stuff). I packed up the patrol wing and ribs in wooden crates in the pods. We also had to move my mother-n-law out of her place because she was moving in with us. We then bought a 1910 house and a hanger and a business for my wife (she is a dentist). I have built an office in the hanger and a large storage loft suspended from the ceiling. the nice thing is I go to the hanger every day to work out of the office there. My company is back in Colorado but I work remotely. It is a dream to work out of my hanger. On nice days I pull the plane out and go flying for lunch. The enclosed office was a necessity once I got the first gas bill to heat the hanger to 68deg in the day ($300....ouch). I have started now setting up the wood and aircraft shop. I have to build all new benches because they are cheaper to build than ship. I hope to get back to the patrol this summer. The wing is still in the crate. I will post some photos of the hanger soon. Things are starting to slow down just a bit,
N3UW
Patrol Scratch Builder
very nice write up. Glad you are going with the rubber press method. As long as t rubber is dense enough and the press is strong enough, you will love it. Your first ribs look great. The air assist 20ton jack from harbor freight was also a great upgrade for me. makes it go really fast. Keep us updated.
Busy life, to be sure! Sounds like a dream working out of your hangar, as you said. I'm a telecommuter myself, so understand that scenario. Just walking out to your plane and taking a ride when you feel the urge is an awesome thing. What are you flying while you're building?
Got all the aft and nose rib lightening holes flanged today with the press. Looking good!
Don "Pressmaster" Holloran at the controls.
Apparently it's a precision operation, with everyone keeping a very close eye on things.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Don "Pressmaster" Holloran at the controls.
Apparently it's a precision operation, with everyone keeping a very close eye on things.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Last edited:
First half of the center ribs have their lightening holes flanged.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Last edited:
Wrapped up the center rib lightening holes today. Looking fabulous.
Also started the small stuff. I opted to go with the flap nose ribs next. The press is large enough now, and the parts are small enough, that I was able to do two at a time.
The rubber mats I'm using don't flow well around the small parts, so I had to massage them a little bit.
So off to the good ol' trusty Vans rib straightener.
Good to go! Ready to move to aileron nose and pockets.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Also started the small stuff. I opted to go with the flap nose ribs next. The press is large enough now, and the parts are small enough, that I was able to do two at a time.
The rubber mats I'm using don't flow well around the small parts, so I had to massage them a little bit.
So off to the good ol' trusty Vans rib straightener.
Good to go! Ready to move to aileron nose and pockets.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Same technique for the aileron nose ribs.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Well, this is the last of the little guys. Aileron pocket ribs are wrapped up. Like the others, I was able to press both sides at the same time.
Because of the inside radius, I couldn't use the Vans method. So I broke out my seaming pliers and my lineman's pliers and did them that way.
What to do next? Oh yes, full-length ribs. Have to create the routing form for them, cut them out, and then flange them.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Because of the inside radius, I couldn't use the Vans method. So I broke out my seaming pliers and my lineman's pliers and did them that way.
What to do next? Oh yes, full-length ribs. Have to create the routing form for them, cut them out, and then flange them.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sure did. 11 degrees works perfectly.
So finally got the last of everything cut and lightening holes flanges today. The full-length ribs were the last to be done. They hadn't yet been cut out because I hadn't made the routing jig yet. So I picked up a new sheet of MDF, traced the master routing template onto it, and cut/routed out a pair of routing jigs.
Got the aluminum roughs loaded up and ready to go, and then routed them out. Amazing how quick and easy two sheets goes than ten!
Probably should have thought twice about routing these things while wearing a fleece. Going to take a while to pick the shavings out of it.
Got them in the press to flange the lightening holes, wrapping up all the lightening hole adventures.
Time to move on to edge flanging.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Got the aluminum roughs loaded up and ready to go, and then routed them out. Amazing how quick and easy two sheets goes than ten!
Probably should have thought twice about routing these things while wearing a fleece. Going to take a while to pick the shavings out of it.
Got them in the press to flange the lightening holes, wrapping up all the lightening hole adventures.
Time to move on to edge flanging.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
It's been a good one! Metal shavings have gotten into the contact slots and temporarily stopped progress. But just blow them out and I'm back in business.