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The plans call for 1/8 flush head ss rivets on trailing edge but the shortest 1/8 rivets i can find have a grip length starting at .062, it needs to be .050 or shorter,( any ideas) thanks wes
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I used plain rivets there instead of flush head. Did I miss the specification for flush head on the plans? -
[QUOTE=jaredyates;17593]I used plain rivets there instead of flush head. Did I miss the specification for flush head on the plans?[/QUOTEComment
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Come to think of it I don't think it does call for flush head Thanks that helpsComment
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It's coming back to me... I think I used standard head rivets in part because I didn't have a dimple die that would fit in there once the TE was bent. Once covered with some anti-chafe tape, they practically disappear under the covering.Comment
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Those rivets mainly serve to keep the trailing edge in place with the shrunk fabric trying to move it. I also used round head pops there. They have held well. MarkComment
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One method I have seen regarding TE installation was to put a tiny ball of thickened epoxy at the aft most inside folded corner of the TE where the aft end of the rib could just touch it.. The whole idea is to reinforce the TE/rib joint and to keep the TE from creeping forward because of fabric tension and wear and tear. This puts an unsightly wrinkle in the fabric just forward of the TE. Worked great on Pitts biplanes and they get the crap beat out of them. The balls must be small, remember they must be counterbalanced, filled with microballoons, or some other lightweight filler, and must contact the end of the rib to lock in its position spanwise. I plan to do mine like that.
Cheers
Gerry
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