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Two edges get worked with a joggle clip on the center ribs, right? The joggle across the flange is no big deal as mentioned - just make the slot wide enough per the TO. Pushing that already-radiused flange edge down into the web probably tightens the radius a bit, but going from 0.10 to 0.075 or so is still 3t.
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Our ribs were size for size with spar flanges so there was no option other than joggle to get the rib to tuck into place. My partner made a pair of blocks to form the joggle and welded the blocks in a pair of vice grips that were bought on sale. The vise grips could be adjusted so that once it was set for the joggle. The setting would form the joggles all the same by closing the vice grips until they were locked or clamped as far as the adjustment allowed.. The setting was adjustable with the vice grip adjustment screw. It takes a little experimenting to make the tool but it is efficient once it is right.Last edited by Glenn Patterson; 06-08-2022, 12:15 AM.Comment
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I dont see how the simple slotted joggle tool can work--- given that the area being joggled is a compound curve. The tool wont fit in there-- and even if it did-- its only intended to bend a linear joggle. i think a male and female form block (possibly cast from the ribs) and installed onto large welding vice grips would be the way to go. Maybe have the blocks to cradle the material and a 2-nd attached smaller vice grip having a nylon or UHMW block to press the 2024 sheet into the depression in the larger lower block. The big upper and lower blocks are held down pinching (but not changing shape) of the flange area. The 2-nd smaller one tightens against the other two---- and depresses the sheet against the small hollow in the lower block. Going to try to make that. a lot of work--- but its a hard problem to do correctly ...... and well...... I think......Comment
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One way would be to build the joggles as indentations of the form blocks for the ribs, and just hammer the joggles in place along with the rib flanges.
Or, what I did was to make joggle blocks as a secondary step after forming the rib flanges.
Seems to be fine but I'll let you know how it works out during assembly.
0:36 to1:40 or so in this video:
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WOWWWWWW------ Frank-------- that is the beez-kneeze there my friend. Thats just about what I was immagining except making the blocks out of nylon or UHMW. But it lookslike that worked just fine with MDF.
That bending brake is just what I need too. What size angle did you use there --- 5/16 or 3/8 thick ? Looks like it bent just fine too.
did you use an 8 foot hinge or shorter pieces and just lined them up carefully ? Did you use a single 8 foot pin through them to make the segments
concentric ?
GREAT WORK !!!!!!!!!!!!! Impressive !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Tim
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You are too kind! MDF works okay for most forming and is easily replaced when necessary. Nylon or some other workable material would maybe be even better. The brake is "Dave's Brake" is from the Internet. SA has a good description in an article. There is a link in one of my posts and elsewhere in the forum. Six foot stainless steel hinge from Home Depot across the middle, 12 inch pieces on the ends. I made a couple of departures from Dave's plan, for better or worse. Small test pieces bent perfectly. Eight foot lengths, however, needed a great dea of over-bend. The result was a bend radius a little too big which impacted internal spar dimensions. That problem and a Bob-approved solution is in another of my posts here.
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