Could anyone help me with selecting a rivet squeezer from aircraft spruce...which model will be sufficient for what is required for squeezing rivets and dimpling..also...which dimplers would come in handy for same squeezer.. also which length yoke would do the trick. any help here would be appreciated. i will soon be ready to start dimpling flaps and ailerons. thanks again. gary...... would this do?? http://www.aircraftspruce.ca/catalog...?clickkey=4583
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aircraft spruce rivet squeezer preference
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I have had that model Aircraft Tool Supply (ATS) rivet squeezer for decades. That is the easiest to use and most handy. I would get a complete set of dies. That includes dimpling dies as well as flush and dome head rivets.
I made my own 'C" frame that I can use with a rivet gun for the long reach jobs. When I looked at the "C" frames on the market, they were not quite as large as I thought would be requires. Mine is 24 inches vs. 20 for what I could purchase.
For some jobs I have had to use a bucking bar and rivet gun to dimple as well as set rivets, So you want to be looking for those other tools you will need as you go along.
So far I have not needed a deep throat yoke for a squeezer yet.
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I spent way to much time and effort trying to find the right squeezer. Wanted a decent quality tool but didn't want to spend more than necessary. I bought a set from yardstore.com and have been 100% happy with it. But I don't have near as much riveting to do as you.
Scratch Built 4-place Bearhawk. Continental IO-360, 88" C203 McCauley prop.
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I have a TATCO hand squeezer with a 2 and 3" yoke similar to, if not the same as what you linked to. I also purchased a pneumatic squeezer off Ebay for around $150. I don't think I ever set a rivet with the hand squeezer, just left it set up with dimple dies and used it exclusively for that.
I bought the dimple die/squeeze set from the Yard Store and an extra -3 size dimple die set. For a squeezer plus die set, look here:
The pneumatic squeezer got a lot of use though you will have to invest in a few different yokes. I think I have three; a 1.5". a 4", and a longeron yoke.
I didn't bother with the threaded mandrel for the pneumatic squeezer to adjust the die separation. I just have an assortment of various thickness washers to make fine adjustments.
I also acquired two Roper Whitney hand squeezers from Ebay. The good news is they are very heavy duty. That bad news is I found them too heavy and clumsy to use unless you put them in a bench mounted vise and used them like a rivet squeezer station.
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Cleaveland came out with this right after I had bought my Tatco or I would have got it. A little pricy but it really is easier to operate. And it uses the same yokes as the pneumatics if you get one of those later.
Lightweight hand squeezer for dimpling skins and squeezing rivets in aluminum sheet metal construction.
DougScratch building Patrol #254
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Originally posted by DRLPatrol View PostCleaveland came out with this right after I had bought my Tatco or I would have got it. A little pricy but it really is easier to operate. And it uses the same yokes as the pneumatics if you get one of those later.
Lightweight hand squeezer for dimpling skins and squeezing rivets in aluminum sheet metal construction.
DougSteve Nicholson
Lafayette, LA
4 Place Scratch build #1377 in progress (Wings)
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The Cleavland Squeezer has a mechanical advantage through a cam mechanism that is worth the extra price in my opinion. It significantly reduces the force needed and results in faster operation due to less fatigue. And their dimple dies are pretty sweet as well. I used this tool a lot prior to skinning the wings.
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Originally posted by Bearhawk535 View PostThe Cleavland Squeezer has a mechanical advantage through a cam mechanism that is worth the extra price in my opinion. It significantly reduces the force needed and results in faster operation due to less fatigue. And their dimple dies are pretty sweet as well. I used this tool a lot prior to skinning the wings.
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