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  • Brake Grove 600x6

    Hello I am looking for caliper bolts for the 600x6 Grove brake It seems that An-5 5/16 will be to long ! Is it any special bolts to use for the back plate on the 4 place Bearhawk ? Are they assambled with 6 bolts or 4 ? We will install 26" Goodyear Bjorn Qb108

  • #2
    4 bolts is fine, can you put a washer or two under the bolt head and make it work?
    Eric Newton - Long Beach, MS
    Bearhawk Tailwheels and Builder's Manuals
    http://bhtailwheels.com

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    • #3
      Thanks Eric What about the bolt pattern ? To get the nuts on I have to turn the patten . Is it ok as long as the bolts comes opposite each other . In my case 2 bolts and the other 2 bolts on the opposite side.

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      • #4
        That's Perfectly fine. All the stress is in sheer with the brake caliper trying to twist and spin with the wheel. Eric Newton - Long Beach, MS http://mybearhawk.com
        Eric Newton - Long Beach, MS
        Bearhawk Tailwheels and Builder's Manuals
        http://bhtailwheels.com

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        • #5
          Ok I can see there is different ways to mount the caliper.Is there any prefered direction ? (Caliper aft/ fwd , vent valve up /down !)
          Can/have any converted their Grove rims 600x6 to tubeless It seems that Grove have put on an O-ring and a valve on the similar rims and calls it tubeless.Am I right ?
          Have Goodyear 26" I would like to use tubeless.
          Bjorn

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          • #6
            I'm not sure on the forward or aft part, but you will definitely want the bleeder valve facing up in order to get all the air out.

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            • #7
              Bjorn, most builders have the brake calipers on the forward side of their attach "ring". But other positions will work also. The small nuts are helpful also because things are so tight. MS21042 nuts are smaller than normal AN365 nuts.

              On your other question - I have run my 26" Goodyears with tubes (8.50x6 tubes) for many years now. Seems to work fine although you have to keep the pressure up at 12-13 psi to avoid spinning the tires on the wheel and shearing the valve stem IF you do heavy braking. But it takes special wheels to be set up for tubeless tires to the best of my knowledge. Mark

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              • #8
                I thought it might be an idea to protect the brake hose when landing in rough terrain placing the air bleed valve down ? it should be a possibillity to bleed the brake pressing fluid the opposite way ? Hello Mark The building have been interupted for a some time working with our new workshop.I hope we can build a lot during the winther on the kit. You have used your 26" with tubes Are they soft enogh in rough terrain with 12-13 psi ? I just got in contact with Grove . They told it was impossible to convert the rims to tubeless For me it seems to be possible if there is a suitable airvalve on the marked. Bjorn

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                • #9
                  I would put the bleeder/drain valve at the bottom..... I dont think it's only intended for bleeding air out of the brakes.

                  You can fill the brake system with a oil squirter can with a short bit of hose, that way there's no air in the bottom of the system, and you can always top off the system at the reservior.
                  Last edited by Battson; 10-09-2013, 06:55 PM. Reason: Add more text

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                  • #10
                    Yes Bjorn the tires are not too hard with the 12-13 psi. Georg Himmeroeder keeps more pressure in his than I do, and he goes to all kinds of rough runways. I would get the 8.50 x 6 tubes and go with it. A new set of wheels/rims for going tubeless would be $500-$650 extra. Since I have had such good luck using the tubes - I would go that way. Mark

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                    • #11
                      Bleeder valve on the bottom. Remove the air by filling the system from the bottom up. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

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                      • #12
                        Thanks to evrybody for good advises Bleed valve down and tubes on Bjorn

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                        • #13
                          I'm wondering if anyone has tried the drag racing slick trick using sheet metal screws into the bead to prevent the tire from slipping on the bead causing the valve stem to tear out of the tube? In the early 80's when I worked at a tire shop in rotten Groton. There we did a bit of dragster tire work. I recall one customer ordering the wheels, tires with 6 screws per side, tire pressure at 2 PSI. Quick Internet search of tire pressure for drag tires is around 6 PSI. Is there a reason we can do the same on say....26" Goodyears? Have two going onto the Pacer and have been considering three screws per side. Mark M. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

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                          • #14
                            I have heard of using screws Mark. But do not have any experience with it like you do. But the tubes have been fine, and there are no reports of shearing the valve stem if the pressure is kept up around 11-13 psi. Mark G

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                            • #15
                              Mark, Thanks...hadn't seen or heard of using screws in the Goodyear tundra tires. Guess I'll mount the tires, load to gross and fill the tires to get the rights squish...then see how little air is in the tire. Decide from there...maybe an extra tube in the kit. Mark M. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

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