Spar Bar Strip Prices

[way_up_north]

Hey guys...

Was looking at buying the cap strip bars for the spars and the prices dont make sense...

before I start heating up the phone lines I wanted to pass this by you, maybe I`m, missing something

The price for 1 1/4x 1/8 $5.50 USD per foot(the stuff we need to build the spar)....is almost the same price as the double the width 2 1/2x1/8 $5.85.USD.... per foot

the 1x1/8 is $2.18 USD per foot(only a quarter inch smaller in width then what we need is less then half price)...the price structure seems to be double for just the size were looking for and does not follow the linear price rise you see for the rest of the bar stock..

makes no sense that this is so much...anyone else here delt with this?

links to the USA site and Canadian site

https://www.aircraftspruce.ca/catalo...es/alumbar.php

https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catal...es/alumbar.php

[PFalkner]

I was looking for suppliers and some builders here on this forum recommended Wicks aircraft supply. I also found some local suppliers like Yarde Metals. The problem is the 14 foot length rear spar cap strips .That is a special mill order and I found only Wicks had it and the price was like 85 cents per foot . The 1 1/4, Yarde metals would shear 12 foot lengths for $ 2.25 per lin ft. The big expense was the shipping.

[Chris In Milwaukee]

I took a different approach. Bought a sheet of 4x12x.125 sheet for $400 (at the time I bought it). Then I ripped it with a circular saw. Total pain in the backside, but a lot more economical for the raw material.

yeah, that bar stock is spendy stuff.

[way_up_north]

I was looking for suppliers and some builders here on this forum recommended Wicks aircraft supply. I also found some local suppliers like Yarde Metals. The problem is the 14 foot length rear spar cap strips .That is a special mill order and I found only Wicks had it and the price was like 85 cents per foot . The 1 1/4, Yarde metals would shear 12 foot lengths for $ 2.25 per lin ft. The big expense was the shipping.

I have the model B plans and the longest strips I see is 143 inches and 5/8....thats little less than 12 feet. do you have model B plans?...maybe you mistook the 143 inches to be 14 feet...3 inches...and 5/8...cause its hand written its and easy mistake to make

[PFalkner]

look at page 6B . 165 cap strips (4) 1/8 x 3/4 6061-T6

[way_up_north]

Oops... yup that’s going to be a long piece... I’ve not even looked at that page yet thinking it would be easier to build then the main spar...thanks for pointing that out

[Ed Welfred]

A table saw with a non ferrous blade will trim down a 1.5 inch strip very nicely. You will have to debur the edges. With Spruce a quick trip down the 403 you will save the expensive shipping fees. Ed

[geraldmorrissey]

Be careful ordering from Spruce. I received bar stock that was badly scratched. They took it back and sent me more that was worse. Back and forth until I gave up and ordered it locally. Still had issues with scratches. After months of ordering and returning I got enough for a ship set. I would go the sheet and cut route. Maybe you could find someone to split costs with. Did not try Wicks, you might get better material from them.
Gerry
Patrol #30

[way_up_north]

A table saw with a non ferrous blade will trim down a 1.5 inch strip very nicely. You will have to debur the edges. With Spruce a quick trip down the 403 you will save the expensive shipping fees. Ed

Remember reading somewhere a builder ran the sheet through the table saw backwards....against the blade...anyone have experience with that method?

you guys did it the traditional way..feeding towards the blade?

[Chris In Milwaukee]

Well, I was working on a 12-foot sheet, so no table saw for me

But the saw blade was facing the "normal" direction in my case.

[svyolo]

Did they feed it backwards, or just mount the blade backwards?

[way_up_north]

FP22112008A00020.jpg

Did they feed it backwards, or just mount the blade backwards?

http://www.mykitlog.com/users/displa...g=23512&row=42

copied from Waynes Bearhawks....excellent bearhawk site

Rear spar left side vertical stiffeners were positioned and match drilled. I match drilled 4 pieces at a time on the drill press to #40 holes. Then positioned the top piece on the web and match drilled. Then clecoed the bottom and opened up the holes to size #30.

I needed to cut down my miss-sized main spars and cut some 1-1/4" strips for rib attach angles. My previous attempts at cutting off the flange didn't go all that smoothly so I decided to try something different. I've seen where other builders have ripped aluminum on a table saw, and even though I don't really like the idea I thought I'd give it a try. I mounted a 7-1/4" blade in the saw backwards and lowered the blade below the table top. Mounting the blade backwards cuts a nice 1/8" strip out rather than sending thousands of metal chips flying. Then I clamped a piece of 1/2" plywood to the table top to act as a higher table. This provides for a good block for edge guidance and prevents the edge of the aluminum sheet from slipping under the guide. Then I raised the blade with the saw running to cut a slot in the table.

This method worked pretty well and accomplished just what I needed. It didn't leave a clean edge so I still had to router cut a finished edge. There wasn't much metal chips flying but it was still uncomfortable using this method. Something about cutting metal on a table saw just doesn't seem right. I then router cut enough 1-1/4 inch strips of the .032 material for rib attach angles.
FP22112008A00020.jpg

FP22112008A00022.jpg

[Ed Welfred]

The sacrificial sheet of plywood is a good idea. The aluminum slides better and the opening on each side of the saw blade is minimal. I used a fine (60 tooth) metal cutting blade. The blade was mounted in the standard forward cutting position with only about 1/4 inch showing above the aluminum. I am working on a Patrol and cut a wide piece out of a 1/16 X 4' X12' sheet. Support tables and a helper was required. I then cut the individual strips out of the wider cut off. I did not use it but there is a paste that can be applied to the blade to absorb heat so the aluminum does not stick to the teeth of the blade. The thicker the material the more cutting heat is absorbed into the material therefore I do not think cutting heat will be a problem with your 1/8 inch material. I set the fence with 10 to 15 thousand extra width to allow for deburring. To debur I cut a slot into the length of a 2 by 4 and inserted each capstrip (with cardboard where needed to hold the cap strips snug). Then ran a single cut file over the length of the capstrip. When I was satisfied with the edge I finished the edge off with a scotch bright pad.
Worked well, Ed

[Collin Campbell]

This is a blade that I recommend for cutting aluminum.


aluminum blade.jpg

[nichzimmerman]

Not sure if things have changed, but I ordered a 4x12 .125" sheet from Wicks and had them shear off my main spar capstrips before shipping. They sheared two sets of capstrips and I shared the sheet with another builder. There was enough leftover between us for all other 2024 .125" needs. Took about 6 hours and an entire wheel to deburr the edges though, and there were some scratches that had to be buffed out.

[Gary Wallace]

Got all my strips from aircraft spruce in brantford. Mine were all in great condition. Pricey but id do it that way again.

[N3UW]

Remember reading somewhere a builder ran the sheet through the table saw backwards....against the blade...anyone have experience with that method?

you guys did it the traditional way..feeding towards the blade?

I have cut a bunch of aluminum with a circular saw. All you need is a good carbide non-Ferris blade and a long enough straight edge. I use a festool tracksaw but a regular circular saw will work well. A while back i cut all the cap strips needed for two patrols in under an hour. . Very little cleanup needed on the pieces. Bob says this is how he does it himself. Here is what you need.

first you need a saw setup. Making a track saw is easy. Here is a video from this old house that shows one way.

https://youtu.be/rbTvzViDZmo

then you need the circular saw, the proper blade and a table.

For the table, make a table long enough that you can hold the full sheet of aluminum. I used a couple of pieces of OSB on top of saw horses with 12’ 2x4 under for support. The osb will be used hold the AL sheet and also allow the saw to cut about 1/16” into the osb so the cut is clean on the AL and will also prevent the saw from catching on the AL.

Place the AL on the table so that where the cut is will be over the OSB. You want to make sure you cut into the OSB. Now mark the AL and setup the track and clamp down. Set the saw depth so that it cuts through the AL and only about 1/16 or so into th OSB. You do not want to cut all the way through the osb. If you have the ability to hook a shop vac to th circular saw, it makes less flying AL chips. No simply saw through it. For me I cut through the entire 12’ length in under 30 seconds. Cuts like I was cutting through hardboard. Make sure you are wearing eye protection. I just ran a vixen file done the edge once to take off an stress risers,

I use the same method to cut all wing skins also.

If you use the OSB subsurface, track for the saw and proper blade, you will be surprised with how easy and clean cutting this method works. There is actually less cleanup with the saw cut than with a shear.