I tigged up these mandrels that fit in my 48” brake. I can now create essentially perfect corner radii when bending aluminum. The radii of the mandrels are 0.079 (2 mm), 0.125, 0.1875, 0.25. This will allow at least a “4x thickness” inner radius on stock up to 1/16.
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Creating correct corner radius when bending sheet aluminum
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Creating correct corner radius when bending sheet aluminum
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This gallery has 5 photos.Last edited by Mark Spickard; 02-07-2022, 10:43 AM.Tags: None
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I recently bought a 48" brake and need to make bars like this. My mentor suggested getting some sheetmetal to bend and leave over the fingers.Model B quick build started 2021
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That's what I did. Just got a piece of .050 and left it on. Had a few other sizes too. Simple and easy.
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Tried that. Bought a piece of 18 gauge (0.048) mild steel, cut an 8” strip of it and tried to put about a 120 deg bend it. My brake isnt strong enough to bend it, especially to get a nice, even bend with consistent bend radius across the entire 48”. Thought about using 28 gauge (0.015”) but I would then need many overlapping sections in order to get up to a 0.25 radius, which is what is needed for bending 1/16 alum. If you want to put about 3x thickness radius on thin stock (less than 0.032) and about 4x thickness radius on thicker stock, and you want to bend it precisely and with a known radius across the entire bend, I think you need a mandrel that is better than just a bent piece of steel over the foot.
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If your brake looks like this:
1.jpg
I used steel banding material (green) to make up various length brake shoe - as shown in Bob's little book.
To get real utility out of those 4 foot brakes you need to modify them. Adding shoes requires them to have much more adjustment.
A real brake has something like this in the back:
a.jpg
With a grinder ,two mild steel plates, a drill press, and a file, it is possible to make the equivalent:
grind this off
2.jpg
add replacement plates
3.jpg
I did a write up for this mod
The EAA free for member builder log allows for uploads of pdf and pictures
I hope this link works.
Download the file jun.odt from the link below
https://eaabuilderslog.org/?blprojph...t=&e=7XGUzxbsX
One thing I learned the hard way, is that red metal on the brake is tool steel. If you cut it fast or use a torch, you will harden it. Cut slowly, no torch.Last edited by sjt; 02-05-2022, 04:28 PM.Stan
Austin Tx
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I have a Woodward Fab brake and its eccentric adjuster has about 0.420” of adjustment. The problem was that when adjusted full forward, the tip of the feet were about 0.27” forward of the bend line…….0.27” of the adjustment was not usable. In the full back position there was only about 0.15” clearance between the tip of the foot and the bend line. This is not sufficient to get a 0.25” radius on a 0.063” sheet. So, I just cut off the support brackets, moved the entire foot assy back about 0.27” and tigged it back together. I can now fit my 0.25” mandrel (0.5” dia half-round) and 0.063” material no problem. Then, for quick adjusting, I tigged some allen wrenches to the eccentric locking bolts, threaded a bolt shank into the eccentric and put big wing nuts on the clamping rods. Everything works great now.
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I liked your foot idea. I have been buying 3 foot long O1 drill rod in standard sizes from machine shop vendors. I do not harden them. I also had to make up feet in an array of lengths for use on a 10 foot brake when needed.
I use packing tape to tape the various lengths of shoes to the brake so that they stay put.
tape.jpgStan
Austin Tx
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Originally posted by RVC View PostHow much work is accomplished with a brake? I do not own one and wonder if access to brake is sufficient. I suspect ownership is best to efficiency. What is 'Bob's Little Book'?
As for the book, when Bob ships the plans, he includes a book that is consolidated from the first few years of the newsletter. This has some details about how to build the airplane that are not drawn on the plans.
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