Tell us what you did today on your Bearhawk Project

[mswain]

I am laying out my main spars. So of course, my workbench is too short and I have to build a 16' worktable before I can continue.

You can always just use a saw horse or pull a drawer out on a properly positioned tool box. Shim it level and build away.


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[patrickh99]

I built a box-beam out of 2 sheets of MDF. It is currently laying on my workbench, which makes it a little tall, so I would like to drop it onto sawhorses. The main problem now is the box-beam is 16' and my workshop is 17' Putting it on sawhorses will require it to be directly in front of the door on each end of the shop, severely limiting access.

[Gary Wallace]

Today I finished drilling main spar strut attach steel fittings and finished fabbing all vertical spacers and drilling all rib attach angles on main spar. I am finshed drilling both main spars! And am now dismantling and deburring all pieces to set aside for priming. This week I will start on rear spars. I already have webs bent and ready to lay out cap strips I anticipate the rear spar fabbing up to pojnt of priming to takemeabout 5 weeks. I will then prepare and epoxy prime all my ribs,, rib stiffener angles,"and main and rear spar parts. Then,,,,,, start riveting!

[Chewie]

You can always just use a saw horse or pull a drawer out on a properly positioned tool box. Shim it level and build away.


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I just supported one end on the hood of my car. Because it slopes you just back it up until everything's level. But you gotta watch out for cold weather, your tire pressures go low and all of a sudden everything is tilted over!

[mswain]

.....and try not to scratch the hood!

[mswain]

This was my high tech set-up.
2013-03-20 21.11.15.jpg

[Chewie]

That. Is. Awesome! You totally got me. Now I'm gonna have to really set mine up on the car and scratch up the hood just to prove I did it. It's called scratch building for a reason!

[French]

Finished up the rough cowling as far as I could for now. Just about done with the engine plenum, then back to the carb box intake, carb heat, etc...
We are in the dead of winter, so I can spend all day in the shop if I really want too.

[whee]

I feel kinda funny posting the same build updates in two different forums but I don't want you guys to miss out on catching me screw something up. Follow me on BCP if you want (though I'll probly still post major milestones here): https://www.backcountrypilot.org/com...progress-16507

[patrickh99]

I started drilling the right front spar for all the fittings and cap strips. I'll post some pictures one of these days.

[patrickh99]

Not quite a Bearhawk, but I had to take some time out from building....

[Bdflies]

Oohhh! I like!

[JimParker256]

It's amazing what you can do if you order ALL the options AviPro has to offer... LOL But seriously, that is super-cool!

[patrickh99]

My layout table and fitting it into my shop.

The layout table is only sitting on the drillpress table for a support. There is not enough room to drill the spars as it sits now.
I got tired of working on such a high platform, so I ended up cutting it down to 14' long and put it on sawhorses (new picture attached).

I have not decided how I will drill all the holes yet. I would like to use the drillpress, but may opt for one of the portable drill guide attachments.
I'll update when I figure that out.

[sjt]

I am at a similar point on the patrol. I have been at that point for some time. Some of the builders drill out the cap strips using a jig for spacing out the 1.021 holes. The only real dimension to hold (on the patrol) is 12.25 inches between the rib locations. The 1.021 is an artifact of placing 12 rivets in the space of 12.25 ie. 12.25/12.

From your pictures, it does not seem to require a jig for pre manufacture of cap strip holes. Could you describe the order of operation for your drilling?

Specifically, I want to know how you can slide the two c channels across the drill without the splice, or are you using a hand drill with a bubble level and not moving the channel(s)? Also, I would like to know:
Did you drill the capstrip holes on the attach plate and then drill into the cap strips?
Are placing the front side cap strips under the spar before drilling as in the procedure that eric used?

[Bdflies]

I've been fabricating interior panels, for the past month. Just about done with them. Pulled all out. Finish drilled, finish trimmed, labelled locations and piled them up. It's quite a pile of aluminum stuff! I figure it might just be time to paint the pieces, but I'm not looking forward to that. I like to shoot the paint, but hate the prep and cleanup... I'll post a couple of pics when I re-install. I've taken some pics of the bare aluminum, in place, but the reflection makes for more confusion than clarity.

Bill

[AlabamaSlammer]

Too cold in the garage to weld and I'm kinda tired of fab work at the moment. Just purchased another core engine and am now screwing around with panel design.

Whee, where'd you find the files for the various devices to layout? Just Google-Fu?


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[whee]

Garmin and GRT have full size images you can print off on their websites. The other things I just resized the images to the correct size.

[rv8bldr]

You can get full size mockups off of the Dynon site too.

[patrickh99]

I started drilling the spar caps, 4 at a time.
I put rivets in every 6-8 in to keep everything aligned. The board on the right of the drill bit is to hold down the strips and keep shavings from going between. The vacuum hose helps keep things clean. 3 hrs and about 1/3 done


Patrick H